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  #1501  
Old 11-17-2015, 05:52 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by mjt57 View Post
Sorry if this is covered elsewhere but I couldn't find anything.

I discovered this in another forum.

News €“ REDARC Electronics

It's about fitting a DC/DC voltage regulating device to vehicles with new types of alternators. The Jeep Grand Cherokee is amongst these. this is to power or to charge second batteries or auxilary batteries. In this case, I'm refering to the installation of cabling to run an Anderson plug to power a caravan's battery/electrical system.

I've not read about anyone here doing this.

All I've read so far is that people connect a set of cables to their battery and have it switched via an "ignition" controlled relay.

I'd like to hear from people about this issue.

Thanks
I reckon this has been discussed earlier in this thread, and certainly in the "fitting a 2nd battery threads". Have a search around.
Anyway….
These issues have been around a while, and were predicted to cause problems right from the start with the WK2 JGC.
Our 2012 was one of the early CRD's and I was a bit concerned, so (as described in my earlier post) I installed a Piranha isolator (to protect the starting battery), then ran an Anderson extension lead to my aux battery in the back. At the time i fitted a 30a DC-DC converter to the top of the battery box and charged the aux battery via that. I used a deep cycle as an aux so the batteries were the same.
Because the system is flexible, from time to time I also charged the van batteries from the Jeep using another Anderson extension cable, and relocating the DC converter, connecting it direct to those batteries. They are also deep cycle so I don't mess with charger settings.
I could also charge the aux battery with the DC converter feeding from the van solar and batteries if we were parked up for any length of time.
Use of an Anderson plug on all connections allows a multitude of connection possibilities.
All worked great, then recently I started to bypass the DC converter and connect straight to the aux battery with the main battery supply, worked just as well, and actually charged the aux battery faster so it was an improvement if we were only doing a short run.
So in our case it could be said for the 2012 the DC converter wasn't necessary.

Purists may argue that the aux battery potentially wasn't charged to full capacity by connecting direct, but I have had no issues with system life, and I'm happy with how it works. If the aux gets a bit down after a couple of days parked up running the Engel, then it gets charged - however it suits at the time.

With the 2015 CRD i don't know yet if the charging system will do the same job, but I have the DC-DC converter already part of the system should it be required.

John

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  #1502  
Old 11-17-2015, 06:49 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

I don't use a dc/dc charger, but power the 2 Lithium batteries in the van via an isolator and wired from the main battery via an Anderson plug. What Redarc are basically saying is that the way I do it is not as efficient as using their electronics.
What I have "appears" to work, but then again, when connected to the van, I also have 3 x 130w solar panels working away at charging.
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  #1503  
Old 11-17-2015, 09:12 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

My setup is similar to that of Ally and John, an electronic battery isolator tucked in next to the battery then through the the body to the Anderson plug, no DC/DC converter. It charges three lithium batteries like a dream, in fact I'm more concerned of over charging if anything.

The Redarc article mentioned above talks of modern alternators reducing output voltage when the under bonnet temperature reaches a predetermined limit. I suspect this is to protect the battery from excessive heat. Guess what, our batteries are under the seat. They aren't exposed to excessive heat as are batteries in conventionally configured fourbies such as the Prado which is mentioned in the Redarc article. So perhaps while our alternators may have the functionality to reduce the voltage, it rarely has need to do so.
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  #1504  
Old 11-18-2015, 06:53 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

thought I'd share my setup. It has survived 15000km towing sofar with a problem.
i run power to the caravan using a large cable from the battery positive through an 80A mega fuse in the battery box to a fuse box located underneath the storage box under the torch. there are two power leads into my caravan and they are each routed trough relays mounted in the same place. the relays are switched by 12V ignition coming from the 12V outlet at the right rear. from there the cable, along with the other wires to the caravan connector pass through one of the grommets underneath the spare tyre.
i use a Tekonsha P3 controller mounted from the top of the storage bin at the front of the centre console. It receives direct power (Blue wire) from the battery through a 30A fuse. the brake signal is picked up from the left rear brake wire. all the wires from the brake controller are connected using a connector in the console next to the drink holders. it fits there with adhesive velcro to hold it secure and stop it rattling. from the centre console there is a notch running beside the front seats that makes it easy to thread wires down to the floor and then out to the sill and hence to the rear.

i have also folded a bracket that is attached to the top two machine screws that hold the screen in situ.it protrudes about the upper level of the screen it is made from aluminium sheet and mounts the TyreDog screen for the caravan tyres, a screen for OziExplorer and the handpiece for the UHF. the trim around the centre dash unclips easily(See wk2jeeps.com) and it can fit back in place and still allow wires to feed past it to the apparatus on the mounting.

all that might give others some ideas. sorry i can't work out how to put photos up of the mods.
peter
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  #1505  
Old 11-18-2015, 09:40 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

finally worked out to attached photos. like most blokes took me a while to admit i needed to read the instructions. obviously a couple of degrees haven't improved my intelligence much.
these are the photos of the mounting that i made.
DSCF3005.jpgDSCF3008.jpgDSCF3012.jpg
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  #1506  
Old 11-18-2015, 10:08 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

That home made bracket sits in behind the dash? I assume it is a perm fixture?
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  #1507  
Old 11-18-2015, 10:20 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by allypally View Post
That home made bracket sits in behind the dash? I assume it is a perm fixture?
that's right. it is covered with black felt and fits in well. it doesn't impede the eye-line at all. just have to make sure it is high enough not to obscure the top of the screen.
Forgot to mention that i use a GME glass mount aerial for the UHF. it saves putting a cable through to the outside and works as well as any previous aerial i have used. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GME-AE5002-ON-GLASS-MOUNT-ANTENNA-FOR-UHF-CB-BAND-RADIO-477-mhz-NEW-STICK-ON-/300874286321?hash=item460d8144f1:g:epYAAMXQySpRQRu 0
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  #1508  
Old 11-24-2015, 06:37 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Where have you mounted your glass mount antenna? Any photos to go by? Thanks.
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  #1509  
Old 11-26-2015, 07:28 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

On the Glass... Lol sorry couldn't help it. Look closely to the left of the snorkel.
ImageUploadedByJeepGarage1448540875.329044.jpg


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  #1510  
Old 11-26-2015, 07:05 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Hutch801 View Post
On the Glass... Lol sorry couldn't help it. Look closely to the left of the snorkel.
Attachment 62715


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What's that antenna hanging off of the guard there?
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  #1511  
Old 11-26-2015, 07:47 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by mjt57 View Post
Thanks.



What's that antenna hanging off of the guard there?

UHF antenna..


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  #1512  
Old 11-27-2015, 06:31 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

OK, now I'm confused. What's the glass mounted antenna, then?
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