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  #1525  
Old 11-29-2015, 07:03 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Hutch801 View Post
Is anyone running a 50 lt waeco direct from the factory point in the rear.
Ive been running a 40lt engel. But i just upgraded direct from the battery. As expected Massive Difference in Voltage drop as in none

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  #1526  
Old 11-29-2015, 07:43 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Hutch801 View Post
Is anyone running a 50 lt waeco direct from the factory point in the rear.
I am running 65ltr CFX Waeco but from the socket in the central storage box under your arm. (the one with power on all the time)
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  #1527  
Old 11-29-2015, 09:04 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

We have a Waeco CFX. Forget the size, but one of the larger ones. Took it to Costco when we first got it. Plugged into the power outlet in the boot. Seemed to run fine.

To those who said that there's a voltage drop how do you know?

Thanks.
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  #1528  
Old 11-29-2015, 09:26 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Use a multimeter. Test it after the fridge has been running for a while.
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  #1529  
Old 11-30-2015, 12:39 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

How do you test it whilst the fridge is plugged in?
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  #1530  
Old 11-30-2015, 12:50 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Well my multimeter leads have sharp points easily able to penetrate the insulation on a fridge lead.
And I guess those plugging compressors or high demand appliances into the standard power outlet sockets are carrying replacement fuses……..the ones to suit won't be available to purchase out in the shrubbery for sure. Way back in 2012 I had to import spares, they were so difficult to get hold of then.
John
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  #1531  
Old 11-30-2015, 01:02 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I can gain access to the electrical connections through the service panel of the fridge. Making a breakout lead isn't too hard if you're a regular tinkerer. You can also use two fine pins into the cable in the same manner John has referred to with his meter probes. A couple of tiny baby pins are also excellent... offset them along the cable to avoid mishap. If you would like to be rough or are stuck for options, you can "blade" the cable sheath with a sharp knife.

Cheers,
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  #1532  
Old 11-30-2015, 03:54 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by adriwood View Post
Mjt57.

Barboots is correct. Not sure what your advisor tows with an onboard battery.

You could tap into the existing circuit to switch a solenoid that will cut in /out and Anderson plug connection with the ignition cycle, however would strongly recommend a 6BS run direct to the battery with an in line fuse of 50 to 60 AMPS depending upon your needs and use the solenoid to protect the car battery. I currently have a straight run to the back of the car that is permanently live. I will be modifying this to have a solenoid, an internal battery charging point (fridges for the use of) and a spur to the outside on an isolator.

Regards

Adrian
That would work but if you are using a quality electronic battery isolator, I think you could do without the solenoid and the fuse. The isolator should be able to provide all the protection you need. Remember that every additional component and every additional connector adds an additional failure mode. So unless you really need it , leave it out.
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  #1533  
Old 11-30-2015, 06:37 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

How many components and solder joints in that electronic isolator Bob? Maybe a solenoid and fuse are actually simpler?

Some devices I've seen use smaller relays paralleled up to permit adequate current capacity. In a perfect world, they would all switch exactly at the same time... but in reality, one of those poor little contacts closes first, if only by nanoseconds. Solid state isolators sound ideal, but longer term high current throughput can bring some configurations undone.

Ultimately, there's a degree of "choose your poison" in all options.

Cheers,
Steve
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  #1534  
Old 11-30-2015, 10:32 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barboots View Post
How many components and solder joints in that electronic isolator Bob? Maybe a solenoid and fuse are actually simpler?

Ultimately, there's a degree of "choose your poison" in all options.

Cheers,
Steve
Not quite the same. Quality electronic these days use 6 sigma QA otherwise they wouldn't still be in business. I don't know about your soldering skills but mine are about half sigma at best.

Regarding "choose your poison", you are spot on there.
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  #1535  
Old 12-01-2015, 07:32 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

I am having trouble with the brakes when towing my Camper. When I start from cold, everything seems to work well, brakes apply and release smoothly. After I have been driving for a while the brakes sometimes do not release for a second or 2, seems to happen more with moderate braking when released after almost stopping. I have had the brakes serviced my a supposed expert who could not find any problems. I have just replaced the brake controller with a Redarc Tow pro, with out any improvement. The brake drums are quite warm when this is happening.

Anyone have a suggestion on where I go from here, or is this something I just have to put up with?

cheers

FB
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  #1536  
Old 12-01-2015, 11:39 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

What you are describing is not normal.
If you have changed the controller without any success, it would appear to be related to either the wiring or the brake itself. I would suspect the electric solenoid on the brakes.
If the drums are "quite warm" is there a chance that they are on too tight? i.e. always rubbing?
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