The triton has a separate chassis so doesn't transmit the sound and vibration from the trailer hitch into the cab as much as the GC, the cloth will get rid of the free play between the ball and hitch
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 3L CRD, Uneek4x4 bull bar, Murchison Products Suspension Lift
mild improvement using old undies on the tow ball today :thumbsup:
less banging and crashing but still present
That's a great idea using undies. After all they are designed to limit the amount of ball banging. You will probably find that they will keep the tow ball warm also.
I posted this in the 2nd battery thread, but perhaps here would be ok too:
I'm trying to find a takeoff point for a switched 12v source to go to the battery compartment, for use on a relay. What have others done?
Thanks, russell
I installed a mopar towbar last weekend, it was about 6 hour job for one person. The tow bar has a anti rattle bolt and lock nut to reduce the tong movement, instructions how make the adjustments are on page 11 of the installation manual.
I installed a mopar towbar last weekend, it was about 6 hour job for one person. The tow bar has a anti rattle bolt and lock nut to reduce the tong movement, instructions how make the adjustments are on page 11 of the installation manual.
Yeah it's not that successful in practice mate. Because it's central, and at the front of the receiver adaptor, sideways movement at the ball end seems to loosen it fairly quickly. Guys who have tried to torque it up hard have reported it stripping out. It is definitely better off tightened prior to putting the trailer on.
For sideways movement, a dab of weld on the side of the insert and filed down to suit should do the trick. In an emergency, stick your wife's credit card in there to take up the slack.
A voltage sensing relay would require the least trim removal. You'd probably need an adjustable one as the difference between the fully charged AGM battery and the alternator output when it's in reduced output will be minimal. Maybe a few hundred millivolts in worst case...
It was part of a large ABN transaction including two full sets of bash plates. The dealer who looked after me best and had all items in stock was Wanneroo. I also had a very competitive quote from CruisinOn, also in the Wanneroo area.
Hey Guys,
A quick question about the Aussie MOPAR tow bar. Does anyone know if the Bumper inset panel that comes with the US MOPAR tow bar will fit with an Aussie MOPAR Bar? I think that it looks a lot more professional job than the hack job that I have seen done with the Aussie ones around Perth.
Hey Guys,
A quick question about the Aussie MOPAR tow bar. Does anyone know if the Bumper inset panel that comes with the US MOPAR tow bar will fit with an Aussie Bar? I think that it looks a lot more professional job than the hack job that I have seen done with the Aussie ones around Perth.
I thought about cutting it just the receiver opening width and a shade taller, then mounting the trailer socket on top of the bar. The problem then is the shackles, which would end up very close to the bumper. In fact you'd probably need to fit them "pin down", which isn't really a top idea for longer hauls.
Making the cut neat enough that the pinchweld isn't required makes an improvement to the appearance IMO... though it's a towbar, and will never be a thing of beauty. The paint quality is pretty ordinary too.
My Dunbier boat trailer's chain is long enough to make the distance and go straight on. The chain just sneaks over the bow part of the shackle. To be honest it's possibly undersized and there's only one, but it's the chain the trailer was licenced with. Go figure.
My rusty 6x4 needs an intermediate shackle and this needs to be an unrated hardware store type or under-rated. I never carry anything heavy in the old thing so would only attend to the issue if defected. That's not going to happen here in the wild West :sly:
One thing I've not checked into is whether dual chains are a retrospective upgrade here in WA. I see a lot of singles around on new looking trailers. That said, next time I get any welding done I'll be adding another chain to the boat trailer... I didn't like it from day one.
Hi Steve
In Western Australia (and the rest of Australia), it is only necessary to have one chain if the trailer ATM is less than 2.5 tons. Vehicle Safety Bulletin 1
All pig trailers with rigid drawbars (with or without breakaway brakes but excluding converter dollies) and, any other trailer without breakaway brakes, must be fitted with safety chains that are marked in accordance with the relevant Australian Standard and (or cables as applicable) complying with the following:
trailers that do not exceed 2.5 tonnes ATM must have at least one safety chain complying with Australian Standard AS 4177.4-1994 or Australian Standard AS 4177.4-2004 'Caravan and light trailer towing components Part 4: Safety chains up to 3500kg capacity', or be a safety cable with a certified load capacity of the same;
trailers over 2.5 tonnes and not exceed 3.5 tonnes ATM must have two safety chains of designation of 3500 kg complying with Australian Standard AS 4177.4-1994 or Australian Standard AS 4177.42004;
trailers over 3.5 tonnes ATM must have two safety chains made from steel of a minimum 800 MPa breaking stress that conforms to the mechanical properties of Grade T chain as specified in Australian Standard AS 2321-1979 'Short Link Chain for Lifting Purposes (non calibrated)' or Australian Standard AS 2321-2006 'Short Link Chain for Lifting Purposes.' Each chain must be sized such that the minimum breaking load exceeds the ATM.
However, I'm not sure it is such a good idea. Once up in the Pilbara the Jayco Camper came off the ball and one of the chains had completely worn through by the time I was able to stop. It was in a concrete culvert so the chain was worn very quickly, but even so it could have been a real disaster.
Peter
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