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The Towing thread

314K views 2K replies 156 participants last post by  SouthernComfort 
#1 ·
Please place your queries and comments regarding towing, towbars, wiring, Brake Controllers, and any other Aussie towing matters here.

This way the information will be contained, and others will not need to plough though other irrevelent threads to find info.
 
#895 ·
hi guys,

Im new to this trailer thing having always a 2 door car. this is my first SUV, What is the best way to tackle this towbar thing.

what would be the best / cheap tow bar for me? I only need the tow bar,

for 1 the mrs would start driving the car, 2 we would start renting our own place and will be moving a lot.

would i need a electric brake controller? or the electrical thing included is more than enough?

i tried to read on what i need, and as to where to get it. im getting confused between that hayman reese one and the OEM one that isnt really mopar anyway?

sorry to be a complete noob. If anyone has a 2nd hand one they want to sell ill be happy to grab it if your in melbourne of course.

oh sorry, Another thing. would i be able to DIY it? im a little capable with tools.
 
#896 ·
If you want a long range fuel tank choose the Mopar / Best Bars towbar, otherwise go for the best price.

You don't need an electric brake controller for small to medium sized trailers. I get the impression you're not planning on towing a large one?

I would be more comfortable if you'd said something a little more than "a little capable" if you were thinking to install the towbar yourself. :p If you think you can manage some awkward bumper clips and cutting the bumper, you should be fine.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#897 ·
As Steve mentioned you won't need a brake controller unless you are towing a heavy trailer that is fitted with brakes. As for fitting the bar yourself, I fitted my Mopar tow bar myself. Was not hugely difficult, the Mopar instructions were pretty good. The part that was a pain in the arse was the electrical. Thanks to some good instructions Steve supplied me it is do able. I made the job harder by splicing each wire and soldering the trailer plug wire in. Would have been much easier to just use the wire tap connectors that are available from SuperCheap.

If you do it yourself expect it to be a full day job if by yourself, and be prepared to either fix or replace some clips that may break while trying to get the damn bumper off.

Auscop


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#898 ·
Hi all, sorry if this has been asked and answered before, but I am having a tow bar fitted ( mopar) to my 2014 grand cherokee buy the dealership here in Brisbane and it comes with a wire harness and 7 pin plug.
Can it be wired for a 12 pin plug to match my van 12 pin? Or would have to change my vans wiring to a 7 pin plug?
Cheers shaggy



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#899 ·
Shaggy your trailer has more than likely been wired 12 pin as it requires an alternator / B+ feed to recharge onboard batteries. You really need to match the trailer... doing so just requires wire and labour, however the installers are not psychic and will require your direction.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#903 · (Edited)
Jarse means that even though you don't currently own your GC, and therefore don't physically possess an Owners manual, you can download it from here - Jeep Owners | Download an Owners Manual 2004 - 2011 | Jeep and get a good idea of what's what before you take off.

From the Diesel Supplement:

CAUTION!
Do not tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles (805 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first 500 miles (805 km) that a trailer is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
 
#902 ·
Ideally you take it easy for the first 1,000km.
 
#904 ·
Thanks for that. I have been doing a lot of reading before posting to the forum but was finding different opinions including one in the 2014 diesel manual stating the diesel doesn't need running in (with a few common sense conditions). I am keen to hitch up and go as soon as possible but will hold my fire and do an easy 1000km first.
 
#908 · (Edited)
About running-in, apart from following the manual, I like to keep the engine under 3k rpm up to about 5,000km then avoid red-lining till about 10,000km. Also, the manual says to avoid using cruise control during the running-in period. I think this is important. Cruise control on a freeway means engine revs hardly vary. This could lead to glazing of the cylinder walls and mean that only top gear gets run-in. I like to give the engine a bit of a blip every now and again just mix things up a bit. I have no evidence at all that these measures do anything but it makes me feel good and that's what Jeeping is all about.
 
#909 ·
Still correct Bob. Best running in is down in town where the revs are constantly varied, as opposed to hwy cruising. I know Auscop picked his car up in Sydney and drove it to Alice Springs, without any yet detrimental effects. But I still follow the old school procedure.
 
#920 ·
Historically, you'll find "axle" refers to the assembly. Live Axle is a term we use often which reinforces this.

The part which requires no running in is the "axle shaft", though I'm sure even the bearings would appreciate a little love early on ;)

Cheers,
Steve
 
#922 ·
The tongue is the flat surface the ball is bolted to.

The Mopar receiver aperture has a different profile... I gather some people have ground the Hayman Reece receiver adaptors to fit. Technically this voids the compliance... but hey, it's just the corners.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#924 ·
Unfortunately, the Reece profile is what it is, and so is the Mopar one. Aside from busting out the grinder I've not heard of alternatives that will be compatible with the remainder of your HR WDH.

That's not a definite though... wait and see if anyone has some good news for you before slashing your wrists!

Cheers,
Steve
 
#929 ·
As others have advised, it is only the radius on the corners that is different. Once they have been slightly rounded off it will still fit in your older hitch.
Trailer loads will be taken through the square faces, and any banging or noises won't be related to removing a very small amount of material from the hitch shoulders.
Of course the advice you have been given assumes only the minimum amount of material is removed to allow the fit.
John
 
#936 ·
The Best Bars Mopar hitch is 51mm square.
The HR one is 50mm it appears to be solid and a lot longer then the one you have in your photos.
Thanks for that. It sheds some light on what is happening. My guess is that Best Bars hitch is a 2"x2" square hollow section (SHS) whereas the HR one is a true metric 50x50 SHS (2"=50.8mm). Best Bars are probably supplied by NZ Steel who list their sizes as nominal, so maybe a soft conversions from the imperial. SHS are designed to telescope so it would seem that the nominal 50x50 of Best Bars is incompatible with the true 50x50 SHS of HR. Luckily it's easy fixed.
 
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