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  #361  
Old 09-28-2013, 09:34 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

With only 2/3rds the brake lights working and the cruise control not switching off, could this problem be a non compliant ADR issue? Even if the manual override is not used under normal conditions, it still is available to use on the road.

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  #362  
Old 09-28-2013, 03:23 PM
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So is the hand break on most cars and that usually does not light the brake lights. Usually you connect to the switch on the brake pedal but that could have other issues. For example no trailer brakes for adaptive cruise control.
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  #363  
Old 09-29-2013, 06:09 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

As I briefly mentioned, yesterday I installed my extra electrics for the camper trailer. I'll go through what I did in case it helps someone else. Basically, I needed to wire my P3 brake controller and put an Anderson(or 3) at the rear of the vehicle.

Warning... this is long. Prepare to get bored.

The first step, was finding a neat way to run all of the cables

I started my approach in a probing fashion to figure out the most efficient way to do the install. I started in the boot, took out the floor, including the gap hider and scuff plate. Next was the "load floor bin" I undid the two rear nuts but when I came to the front "screws" I found out that the trim removal guide was wrong, they were not screws but bolts with tiny nuts underneath that were really fiddly to touch, just above the QL tank. I decided that if I tried to remove these, it would be easy to loose the nuts and especially hard to get back together again.I figured out at this point that the load floor bin had quite a bit of flex and I could tilt it up quite steeply.

I started the steps to remove the D pillar trim but it also looked to be quite hard and also depended on having the load floor bin out. Instead I decided to try finding a nice place to feed the cables through. First I removed some of the trim around near the rear drivers side door. I always keep on hand some plastic "tongues " that were left over from some MDF panels when we renovated the house. Basically, they are a few metres long by about 4mm x 12mm. I managed to poke them through behind the quarter panel to come out behind said door. I then fed the strip down through a nice crevice below the carpet till I got to the B pillar(the one between front and rear seats). At this point, I taped my cables to the plastic strip and pulled them through. At this point, I was pulling through 2 x 8G (Power and Ground for the Anderson's) and a twin core 6mm for the Brake controller(1 for the brake line and another for the stop signal, sure 6mm is overkill for the stop signal).

From the B piller, it was easy to shoot the 2 8G cables through to the battery box as well as another twin 6mm for brake controller power. This left me with 2 twin 6mm cables to get to the front. Here it must have taken me about 30-40 minutes to get my plastic strip fed through under the plastic sub-floor from the B pillar to the A pillar, it might be easier just to put it under the carpet. It wasn't easy to lift up any of the subfloor, especially near the front of the drivers seat. I assume you need to remove the seat first. Anyhow, I finally got it through and was able to pull my cables through, from there it was fairly easy feeding them up behind the dash. I found that at the top of the media bay, there is a kind of duct between it and the instruments above. By half closing the media bay door, I was able to stick my plastic strip in above the door, down the crevice until it came out above the park brake. I drew my cables back through, routing them behind the door and was able to bring them out into the media bay without a single hole. From here it was easy to solder the 4 cores to the P3 cable, remembering their crappy colour code... Black for 12+, really.

For connection to the battery, I had two circuit breakers, I mounted them both to a timber board to wedge against the battery as I saw mentioned earlier. 1 Breaker for the Andersons and another for the brake controller.

For the Anderson connectors, things got a little more complex, well, more complex than my Subie. In my Subie, the Anderson at the rear is permanent power, just protected by a breaker. I've got a CTek D250S Solar+alternator DC-DC charger in the camper. It's alternator input has a 13.somthing threshold to activate only when the engine is running. Of course, in the GC, the variable alternator means that the voltage may be lower even when the engine is running. The solution here is to use the "solar" input of the D250S which does not have the voltage check. Problem is, I don't want to flatten the GC battery running the fridge and charging the camper while the engine is not running. Simple solution is to put a relay in the boot. I decided to also put 2 anderson connectors in the boot itself, one permanent and one switched.

Only issue with this, is getting to a switched 12v signal wire. I've heard the cig lighter being used but that's not ideal because it comes on with accessories, I want to to come on only when the engine is running, or at least while the ignition is on. Also, I didn't know how to get to the cig lighter without pulling all of the trim off. Oh, and there would be a problem if I ever wanted to move the fuse to have the cig powered permanently, though there is always my permanent anderson. The solution came to me as the spotlight dock! I checked and it is (as is optimal for charging the spotlight) switched with ignition! Here came the feed for my relay!

Anyhow, I tested it all today and everything is working fine. Except someone forgot to tell the GC that it's towing a thousand kg of camper trailer and it's supposed to go more slowly, silly car.
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  #364  
Old 09-29-2013, 06:03 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Life would have been a lot easier for you if you took that trim, which you hesitated to do, out. It really is easy to remove.
You can change the power connection to that rear accessory power outlet, by changing the fuse position. That way it would be live all the time. But an easier way would be to add an additional outlet, and feed it from the Anderson plug power cable.
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  #365  
Old 10-03-2013, 04:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdra10 View Post
Don't need the trailer connected, I need to know what the Jeep lights do when you slide the manual override.
Today I set off to Carnarvon Gorge in our camper, so before I left, I thought I'd check to see what happens with the trailer lights when you select the manual override. Go figure, but both lights worked on the camper trailer.

Just on a side note, we had head winds all the way to Roma where we are staying tonight and with a full load travelling between 90-100 km/h, our milage was 11.6 for for 500 km travelled. If anyone knows the route from Brisbane, it is quite a climb up and over the Toowoomba range. As far as temps were concerned, we averaged 103 deg for oil with a peak of 120 deg during the range climb and the temp gauge sat on 1/2 except during the climb where this peaked at 3/4.

I was exceptionally happy with the ride and when you have to pass a road train, we had no problems getting to 115 km/h. I'm really looking forward to holidays with both our Jeep and camper in tow.
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  #366  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:17 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Just a thought! Those guys with brake light issues on their MY14s, have you had the CPU reflashed for towing? This properly activates the tow wiring. I understand that all Aussie Grands come with the tow group as standard but the tow bar itself as a dealer fitted option. Those that have fitted their own tow bars on ealier WK2's have had to get them reflashed.
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  #367  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
Just a thought! Those guys with brake light issues on their MY14s, have you had the CPU reflashed for towing? This properly activates the tow wiring. I understand that all Aussie Grands come with the tow group as standard but the tow bar itself as a dealer fitted option. Those that have fitted their own tow bars on ealier WK2's have had to get them reflashed.
I never got mine reflagged after I fitted the tow bar and I've had no problems, all my lights work fine (2011 Laredo CRD )
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  #368  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:39 PM
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I never got mine reflagged after I fitted the tow bar and I've had no problems, all my lights work fine (2011 Laredo CRD )
Re-flashed, dam auto correct
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  #369  
Old 10-04-2013, 02:00 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I hate to be lazy but there are 31 pages here to try and wade through and I figured it would just be easier to ask the question. Is anyone doing an aftermarket tow bar for the MY14 yet?

Its been over three months trying to settle a price with my dealer for genuine accessories, including them claiming that the MY13 accessories I had a signed contract for before changing vehicles "didnt include fitting" (what, were they just going to hand me my mudflaps, rock rails, tow bar, wiring loom, skid plates etc....) Frankly I am sick of their BS and if there is an alternative that would be nice.
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  #370  
Old 10-04-2013, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butts_Oz View Post

Today I set off to Carnarvon Gorge in our camper, so before I left, I thought I'd check to see what happens with the trailer lights when you select the manual override. Go figure, but both lights worked on the camper trailer.

Just on a side note, we had head winds all the way to Roma where we are staying tonight and with a full load travelling between 90-100 km/h, our milage was 11.6 for for 500 km travelled. If anyone knows the route from Brisbane, it is quite a climb up and over the Toowoomba range. As far as temps were concerned, we averaged 103 deg for oil with a peak of 120 deg during the range climb and the temp gauge sat on 1/2 except during the climb where this peaked at 3/4.

I was exceptionally happy with the ride and when you have to pass a road train, we had no problems getting to 115 km/h. I'm really looking forward to holidays with both our Jeep and camper in tow.
Butts_Oz we just came back from a week at Carnarvon Gorge. Great spot ... but very dry and dusty at the moment as I guess you are probably now aware. Anyway, we towed our 16' wind up camper trailer(~1700kg fully loaded) for just under 1500km. The first big trip in our MY14 JGC CRD Laredo. We averaged 11.7l/100km for the trip and the Jeep performed fantastically. A great tow vehicle, heaps of Nm and plenty of KW for any situation. I did take me 4 hours when I got home to get rid of all that dust from my brand new jeep however! Enjoy your trip.
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  #371  
Old 10-05-2013, 02:38 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkmydnr View Post
I hate to be lazy but there are 31 pages here to try and wade through and I figured it would just be easier to ask the question. Is anyone doing an aftermarket tow bar for the MY14 yet?

Its been over three months trying to settle a price with my dealer for genuine accessories, including them claiming that the MY13 accessories I had a signed contract for before changing vehicles "didnt include fitting" (what, were they just going to hand me my mudflaps, rock rails, tow bar, wiring loom, skid plates etc....) Frankly I am sick of their BS and if there is an alternative that would be nice.
There is a Hayman Reese bar for the earlier WK2s. I'd be surprised if it didn't fit the MY14. You would need to check with HR. I bought the Aussie Mopar bar from the local stealer and fitted it myself. It was a piece of cake. However, I understand that the wiring harness is different in the MY14s so watch that. Regarding the other items, if you want them fitted properly, fit them yourself. This is particularly true for you in Darwin. We understand from other posts that your one and only dealer for 1,400km is an incompetent sh**.
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  #372  
Old 10-06-2013, 05:41 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobT View Post
This is particularly true for you in Darwin. We understand from other posts that your one and only dealer for 1,400km is an incompetent sh**.
Couldnt agree more, after finally settling on a price for all my extras (3 months after I first enquired) I asked how quickly they could be fitted to be told "I have parts that have been on order now for around 6 to 8 weeks and they still have not arrived at the dealrership (sic),so all I can do is grab payment from you and order ."


Apparently I am supposed to pay 100% cash up front for both parts and labour with no defined delivery date, what a joke....

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