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  #385  
Old 10-11-2013, 08:42 AM
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Hi guys, just thought is give you all my 2 cents worth. I'm not familiar with your controller nor do I do much towing other than a boat every now and then. But I am familiar with BUS and CAN BUS. I think a lot of you are confusing the BUS as controlling lights etc. The BUS is simply a network that links all the controllers together, and allows them to communicate. The lights etc, still work the same old fashioned way with +12v and ground. Some LED lights have controllers that take the +12v and have an output for the lights. These controllers aren't necessarily on the BUS. In order for a device (be it a brake controller or something else) to disable cruise control, the device would need to communicate on the BUS or simulate a signal from the brake pedal switch. Most modern vehicles these days have a BUS, and this is becoming more and more common with the computers in cars. I hope this helps someone.
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  #386  
Old 10-11-2013, 10:00 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Willx View Post
That would still be a lot without WD! Do you agree Allypally, that it does not make sense to try and do that without WD? Also I try to keep up on the OZ specs and I have NEVER seen where Jeep has said anything about not using them with WD. In Fact they have specifically configured the suspension to not level until moving as a safety feature related to WD.
Willx, I generally hook up with the vehicle in park, parking break on, and the engine running and have had my jeep (Quadralift) self level after hooking up but before moving. I think it may have to do with opening/closing the drivers door triggering the systems vain attempts to strike a pose and level out.

I have not tried to experiment yet to figure out why and when, but it did surprise me when it happened based on your experiences.

I leave the door open now to try to prevent it from doing anything.
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  #387  
Old 10-11-2013, 07:54 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

I have just had the dealer fit a Best Bars towbar, and he insists, a 2014 wiring loom. I requested a 12 pin plug.
Two points: The rear sensors are NOT disabled when the trailer is plugged in; and pins 8 - 12, as far as I can see, are not connected. Certainly there is no 12V on the pin that is supposed to have 12V.
Probably can't do much about the rear sensors, and it doesn't worry me that much, but does anyone know whether the "official" 2014 loom should have all the wires for a 12 pin plug? I haven't pulled it apart, but the cable does not look like it has 12 wires in it.
Thanks,
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  #388  
Old 10-11-2013, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by weck View Post
Willx, I generally hook up with the vehicle in park, parking break on, and the engine running and have had my jeep (Quadralift) self level after hooking up but before moving. I think it may have to do with opening/closing the drivers door triggering the systems vain attempts to strike a pose and level out. I have not tried to experiment yet to figure out why and when, but it did surprise me when it happened based on your experiences. I leave the door open now to try to prevent it from doing anything.
Interesting, I suppose it could have had to do with door openings but when I did my tests, the Jeeps sat there running with all doors closed and it didn't move at all while I took my photos and measurements.
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:39 AM
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Just putting this one out tgere, but does anyone have a copy or is able to get a copy of the wiring diagram for a MY14? Au spec if possible.
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  #390  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:36 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I have just had the dealer fit a Best Bars towbar, and he insists, a 2014 wiring loom. I requested a 12 pin plug.
Two points: The rear sensors are NOT disabled when the trailer is plugged in; and pins 8 - 12, as far as I can see, are not connected. Certainly there is no 12V on the pin that is supposed to have 12V.
Probably can't do much about the rear sensors, and it doesn't worry me that much, but does anyone know whether the "official" 2014 loom should have all the wires for a 12 pin plug? I haven't pulled it apart, but the cable does not look like it has 12 wires in it.
Thanks,
Russell
Most trailers that require a 12v supply, require it for fudges and secondary batteries. The current required is usually way in excess of a standard trailer plug's current carrying capacity. On the 12 pin plug, pins 8-12 are the high current pins rated at 35A. That might be sufficient for your needs but the Jeep has 220A alternator so it can provide a lot more if you want it. It is common to use a 50A Anderson plug to provide the high current. Allypally and I have gone for 175A Anderson plugs.

Regarding the backup sensors, I'm pretty sure your overland has a means of disabling the backup sensors from the dash. I don't have this on my Laredo so I installed an isolating switch in the back for that purpose.
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  #391  
Old 10-12-2013, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I have just had the dealer fit a Best Bars towbar, and he insists, a 2014 wiring loom. I requested a 12 pin plug.
Two points: The rear sensors are NOT disabled when the trailer is plugged in; and pins 8 - 12, as far as I can see, are not connected. Certainly there is no 12V on the pin that is supposed to have 12V.
Probably can't do much about the rear sensors, and it doesn't worry me that much, but does anyone know whether the "official" 2014 loom should have all the wires for a 12 pin plug? I haven't pulled it apart, but the cable does not look like it has 12 wires in it.
Thanks,
Russell
Unless you specified that you wanted 12 volt power to the plug they wouldn't have done it. The wiring loom will only have 6 wires in it, possibly 7 if you don't have to run the wire yourself for the electric brakes.

Here's a link explaining the plug wiring.

http://www.campertrailers.org/traile...ng_diagram.htm
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  #392  
Old 10-12-2013, 03:22 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Thanks for that Bobt and Bigskiddy. I guess I figured that the loom was underpopulated, but when they agreed to install a 12 pin plug, I expected that the extra pins would be functional. Given that the only one I will need is the 12V, then the Anderson plug will be the go. I can disable the sensors, although it is both front and rear - and it holds across ignition cycles, so I have to remember to turn them on again.
I will need to check the electric brake wire as I do have electric brakes on the campertrailer, and am considering a controller.
Thanks,
Russell
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  #393  
Old 10-13-2013, 04:24 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
Thanks for that Bobt and Bigskiddy. I guess I figured that the loom was underpopulated, but when they agreed to install a 12 pin plug, I expected that the extra pins would be functional. Given that the only one I will need is the 12V, then the Anderson plug will be the go. I can disable the sensors, although it is both front and rear - and it holds across ignition cycles, so I have to remember to turn them on again.
I will need to check the electric brake wire as I do have electric brakes on the campertrailer, and am considering a controller.
Thanks,
Russell
The blue wire should be the electric brake wire. You will probably find that it is terminated at the other end of the loom. It's here that you connect the output wire from a brake controller.
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  #394  
Old 10-13-2013, 03:46 PM
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Well, I've finally received my GC with the P3 fitted. The P3 works as expected, however when using the manual override NONE of the brake lights on the camper or GC illuminate (perplexing). I'm away on a trip at the moment and will investigate when I get home in a couple of weeks.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:35 PM
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Angry Re: The Towing thread

I have dealer supplied and fitted tow package including Redarc brake, Andersen plug, towbar and trailer plug. I have only towed the 2.3tonne van about 300km, but everything seemed OK.
However, I found when I got home, that the van tail lights and left hand car tail light were not operating. I couldn't find a fault so had an auto electrician check out the van and car and he found that something in the car was rejecting the electrical load. I investigated further and found that removing the globes from 6 of the clearance lights (30w), corrected the problem. The total load in the van circuit was about 100w.
I reported this to the dealer who informed me that the car was operating correctly and the Body Monitoring Module (I think that was what he called it) was detecting an overload. He suggested I put in an extra wire from the right hand tail light to share the load, or put a relay in the van.
We buy the latest technology and find that we have to modify existing equipment to correct incompatibilities.
Barry 41
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:31 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by barry41 View Post
I have dealer supplied and fitted tow package including Redarc brake, Andersen plug, towbar and trailer plug. I have only towed the 2.3tonne van about 300km, but everything seemed OK.
However, I found when I got home, that the van tail lights and left hand car tail light were not operating. I couldn't find a fault so had an auto electrician check out the van and car and he found that something in the car was rejecting the electrical load. I investigated further and found that removing the globes from 6 of the clearance lights (30w), corrected the problem. The total load in the van circuit was about 100w.
I reported this to the dealer who informed me that the car was operating correctly and the Body Monitoring Module (I think that was what he called it) was detecting an overload. He suggested I put in an extra wire from the right hand tail light to share the load, or put a relay in the van.
We buy the latest technology and find that we have to modify existing equipment to correct incompatibilities.
Barry 41
This is the exact issue which has me waiting for details of the MY14 harness. I occasionally tow trailers additional to the ones I own and would really like to have zero parking lot rewires / fault diagnosis to attend to. Maybe I am off target, but my expectation is that the MY14 harness will have a box to buffer the car to trailer lighting connection. Details are still thin on the ground.

Barry I guess your solution could be to replace your marker light globes (or more) with LEDs to reduce the load? This way other electrically wimpish cars won't break under pressure The amount of trailer lighting you have now could borderline pop fuses on conventionally wired vehicles too.

Cheers,
Steve
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