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  #37  
Old 07-03-2013, 06:10 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
I'm not sure if this is a towing thread issue, but it is sort of related. I have been doing a bit of research about running accessories - such as 12V fridges - off the vehicle battery, as you might do through a 12V connection to a towed van or camper trailer. It seems that the charging systems in many modern cars - including the JGC - carefully regulate the charging voltage and current based on the current draw from the battery. The current draw is measured by the system through either the earth connection or the +ve line from the battery. The implication is that if the supply for an accessory is drawn upstream of the sensor for the current draw (in an extreme case this might be the battery +ve terminal), then the charging system will be unaware of it, and incorrectly calculate the charge current required, resulting in a damaged or flat battery (especially significant for the AGM batteries in the JGC).
The solution to this would seem to be an "approved" access point for a 12V supply, to ensure that the charging system is aware of the additional current draw. Although some recommend DC-DC converters to effectively isolate the accessories from the charging system.
Does anyone have any more insight to this with respect to the JGC, and whether it would be safe to entrust an auto electrician to connect an accessory safely? Or indeed the dealer!
There are plenty of ways of achieving a power supply to a second battery or to a van or trailer in a WK2.
You are right in that the jeep employs a Canbus wiring system, and this means that a 12v tap can't simply be taken from anywhere along the wiring.
Most will connect either to the jump start terminals under the bonnet, or direct to the battery under the drivers seat (this is usually easiest because it saves coming through the firewall).
Personally I use a Piranha battery isolator mounted down beside the battery, and this supplies all my accessories, (except for the brake controller which is wired direct from the battery via a 30a circuit breaker). Using the battery isolator (or an suitably sized ignition switched relay) means that an accessory load will not flatten the battery when the engine is switched off, and when the engine is running it is seen by the Jeep as an additional battery load - and hence compensated for.
My choice for running a fridge was to add a second battery in a case fitted behind the fridge, and to charge this battery via a 30a DC-DC charger, clipped to the top of the battery case.
This gives me a simple system, allows the DC-DC charger to fully maintain my second battery, and avoids issues or conflict with the Jeep charging regime.
I've used Anderson plugs to connect to the charger, and to the battery - by using a 6 B&S 12v extension lead I can power the charger (and hence the fridge battery) from our caravan when parked up and the Jeep hasn't been started for a few days.
By unclipping the charger, I can plug it into the van, and use the same extension lead back to the Jeep, idling the engine I can get 30a into my van batteries in inclement weather.
In 18months and 30,000k of towing the van this system has worked very well for our use.
Any competent autoelec should be able to supply and install a similar system, or any variation. I guess the main problem is that unless you can see the quality of his work beforehand and get references from satisfied customers, there is always a risk of not getting the result you want. For that reason, I've done the homework and tackled the job myself. It's done properly, works great, and I know all its innards - that gives me confidence when we are out in the shrubbery.
John
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  #38  
Old 07-03-2013, 06:53 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Willx View Post
Clearly the wrong side for you guys, but not sure if this might be helpful at least to find the connector.

2014 JGC Brake Controller DIY
I was reading that thread yesterday when looking for mounting pictures, but you never did finish it of with final pics of the mounting position.
Admittedly I was only skim reading but I do recall you saying several times you weren't hard mounting it as it was a demo vehicle.
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  #39  
Old 07-03-2013, 07:19 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by SNUKE View Post
I was reading that thread yesterday when looking for mounting pictures, but you never did finish it of with final pics of the mounting position.
Admittedly I was only skim reading but I do recall you saying several times you weren't hard mounting it as it was a demo vehicle.
Snuke - you may already know....however.......unless the 2014 is different - all export WK2's don't get the controller connector up under the dash.
In Australia the fitting of a controller has to be hard wired by the installer. Not a difficult job, and providing the brake switch feed is taken from the stop light wiring in the dealer fitted trailer plug (or from the blue wire they leave dangling from the harness in the top left hand rear corner under the trim) - there are no issues with conflict of the Canbus.
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  #40  
Old 07-03-2013, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John47 View Post
There are plenty of ways of achieving a power supply to a second battery or to a van or trailer in a WK2.
You are right in that the jeep employs a Canbus wiring system, and this means that a 12v tap can't simply be taken from anywhere along the wiring.
Most will connect either to the jump start terminals under the bonnet, or direct to the battery under the drivers seat (this is usually easiest because it saves coming through the firewall).
Personally I use a Piranha battery isolator mounted down beside the battery, and this supplies all my accessories, (except for the brake controller which is wired direct from the battery via a 30a circuit breaker). Using the battery isolator (or an suitably sized ignition switched relay) means that an accessory load will not flatten the battery when the engine is switched off, and when the engine is running it is seen by the Jeep as an additional battery load - and hence compensated for.
My choice for running a fridge was to add a second battery in a case fitted behind the fridge, and to charge this battery via a 30a DC-DC charger, clipped to the top of the battery case.
This gives me a simple system, allows the DC-DC charger to fully maintain my second battery, and avoids issues or conflict with the Jeep charging regime.
I've used Anderson plugs to connect to the charger, and to the battery - by using a 6 B&S 12v extension lead I can power the charger (and hence the fridge battery) from our caravan when parked up and the Jeep hasn't been started for a few days.
By unclipping the charger, I can plug it into the van, and use the same extension lead back to the Jeep, idling the engine I can get 30a into my van batteries in inclement weather.
In 18months and 30,000k of towing the van this system has worked very well for our use.
Any competent autoelec should be able to supply and install a similar system, or any variation. I guess the main problem is that unless you can see the quality of his work beforehand and get references from satisfied customers, there is always a risk of not getting the result you want. For that reason, I've done the homework and tackled the job myself. It's done properly, works great, and I know all its innards - that gives me confidence when we are out in the shrubbery.
John


Any chance of some pictures as to how you achieved this
I am in the middle of doing the same
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  #41  
Old 07-03-2013, 10:04 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by John47 View Post
Snuke - you may already know....however.......unless the 2014 is different - all export WK2's don't get the controller connector up under the dash.
In Australia the fitting of a controller has to be hard wired by the installer. Not a difficult job, and providing the brake switch feed is taken from the stop light wiring in the dealer fitted trailer plug (or from the blue wire they leave dangling from the harness in the top left hand rear corner under the trim) - there are no issues with conflict of the Canbus.
John
No idea what you said there.
I take my Tekonsha brake controller, and say to dealer, "Here you fit in there, make it work".
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  #42  
Old 07-03-2013, 10:18 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by SNUKE View Post
No idea what you said there.
I take my Tekonsha brake controller, and say to dealer, "Here you fit in there, make it work".
I only ask because I don't know but because they are not sending the hitches down that the connector is not there? seems almost like extra work to exclude it?
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  #43  
Old 07-03-2013, 10:37 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Butts, to answer your question from the other thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Butts_Oz View Post
Where do you plan to fit your P3?
I'm actually not sure where I am going to put it. I only just got my enumber and found out that I am going to be waiting till September for my car anyway. I was hoping to find a way to put it under the dash, in the driver foot area.

On my current Subaru I'm really happy with where I put it. The interior fuse box has a door on the lower sloped part of the dash. I managed to secure the P3 bracket inside such that:
1) When I remove the P3(which is the usual state, unless we are camping), the fuses are still accessible and the door still shuts.
2) With the P3 installed, it sticks out just a couple of cm, is easily visible and usable.

I didn't look when I saw a real GC at this in detail and can't find any photos to see if something similar is possible, I suspect not.
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  #44  
Old 07-03-2013, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coreys View Post
Butts, to answer your question from the other thread.

I'm actually not sure where I am going to put it. I only just got my enumber and found out that I am going to be waiting till September for my car anyway. I was hoping to find a way to put it under the dash, in the driver foot area.

On my current Subaru I'm really happy with where I put it. The interior fuse box has a door on the lower sloped part of the dash. I managed to secure the P3 bracket inside such that:
1) When I remove the P3(which is the usual state, unless we are camping), the fuses are still accessible and the door still shuts.
2) With the P3 installed, it sticks out just a couple of cm, is easily visible and usable.

I didn't look when I saw a real GC at this in detail and can't find any photos to see if something similar is possible, I suspect not.
I hope to pick up my Jeep on Friday next week and I'll be taking it straight to the auto electrician so we can discuss options. I'll let you know what we decide.
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  #45  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:06 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Willx View Post
I only ask because I don't know but because they are not sending the hitches down that the connector is not there? seems almost like extra work to exclude it?
Willx, we find it strange that the trailer brake controller connector isn't in the export models.....but it isn't - for whatever reason. Quite confusing too.
The US trailer hitch itself isn't approved for Austraila - we have Australian Design Rules that must be satisfied, and to justify our bureaucrats, the US Mopar hitch isn't approved.
To make things more interesting the AU Mopar hitch is manufactured in New Zealand - so that's usually the one that the dealers out here fit - for an appropriately inflated price.
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  #46  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:18 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by fwdjeep View Post
Any chance of some pictures as to how you achieved this
I am in the middle of doing the same
My second battery is an 80a Fullriver AGM - so the charging regime is the same as the Jeep AGM battery if ever I decide to charge direct from the main battery to the second battery.
My 30a DC- DC charger is a Sidewinder - Redarc have a good one as well.
The battery isolator is a Piranha
I modified an existing drawer and fridge module from previous Patrols to fit the Jeep and it lives only in the Jeep when we are going away with the van. When I modified the module it was built so that it was easy to fit and remove, and light enough to be a one person job.
Using Anderson plugs and twin 6B&S cable allows flexibilty to bypass the DC-DC charger or relocate it to charge our van batteries.
The photos show the module with the fridge and drawers removed, plus the Piranha and accessory feed down beside the main battery. The connections to the Piranha are long enough to allow the mounting to be lifted out for access when needed.
My P3 lives in the cubby.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Second battery.jpg (56.1 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg P1140634.jpg (58.1 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg P1140636.jpg (68.6 KB, 96 views)
File Type: jpg P1140637.jpg (41.5 KB, 102 views)
File Type: jpg P3 in cubby.jpg (53.7 KB, 97 views)
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  #47  
Old 07-04-2013, 02:39 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I like the idea of placing the isolator and circuit breaker on a board. May I ask how you secure that board?
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  #48  
Old 07-04-2013, 03:48 AM
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