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  #769  
Old 04-02-2014, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gr8Ness View Post


However, from my understanding, the car should not lower to Auto Entry/Exit height from ORA1 or ORA2 (as set on selec-terrain) if you turn off the car. It should only do so if the "shift lever is in 'PARK', the terrain switch is in 'AUTO', the transfer-case is in 'AUTO' and the vehicle level should be either in Normal or Aero Mode."
Hi All,

I see mention of the Auto Entry/Exit height. I was expecting/assuming to have this feature on our Overland but how do you turn it on? Is it in the settings menu? I'd so, I can't find it. Which menu?
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  #770  
Old 04-02-2014, 05:14 AM
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Did a search on the forum. Turns out this feature was added for build dates post August. Damn think I only missed out by a few days.
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  #771  
Old 04-02-2014, 06:23 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Corey
your situation is a typical 'free beer for everyone ....yesterday' that Jeep excel at......warm and fuzzy followed by just fuzzy.
Max
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  #772  
Old 04-03-2014, 07:15 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by allypally View Post
For those recently purchased a Grand Cherokee, or about to purchase one, there are differences between the US towpack and that supplied to Australian export cars.
Towbar : The towbar used in the US does not comply to our standards, and therefore is not installed at the factory. Australia uses a bar manufactured in New Zealand by BEST BARS, and sold though the Mopar.AU site. Most dealers use this bar and hitch. Hayman Reece also do a suitable bar, but that bar is not 100% compatible, so the rear recovery hitch needs to be removed. Also just be aware that if you go the Hayman Reese towbar option you will NOT be able to fit the Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank. It was designed around the Mopar one only
Wiring: The towpack issues in the US includes the loom for brake controllers. For some reason, the Australian cars do not have this loom installed. You therefore need to wire a brake controller to power and the rear of the car. When dealers install a towbar, they leave a blue wire sitting up behind the rear passenger side panel (behind where the torch is stored).
Many owners recommend a 6mm wiring for controllers, and 6b&S wiring fort Anderson Plugs.
Hi,
Thanks for the great information.
Great shame that the controller loom is not included in the Oz models, just adds $$ to the fitment costs.
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  #773  
Old 04-06-2014, 06:29 AM
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This is not strictly a towing question, but does seem to be a reasonable place to pose it:
I've been searching the forum and other sites to figure out a good way to connect an auxiliary battery. Most seem to say that a dc-dc converter is the best way to go especially in the case of controlled output alternators,,as it maintains a high enough voltage for charging, and for fridges etc.
However, a disadvantage is that the charge current to the auxiliary battery is limited by the converter, to a lot lower value than if it was directly connected to the alternator when the alternator is producing at the higher level of its voltage range ( resulting in a lot more driving time to charge the auxiliary battery.)
So the question is: Is there a way (or a suitably intelligent converter) to connect the alternator,directly to the auxiliary battery when the alternator is producing a suitably high voltage, but via the converter when the voltage is reduced by the management system?
A related question: given that the alternator output is controlled by the electrical load at any given time, then if the auxiliary load (eg a fridge) was sensed by the management system, then there would be less need for a dc-dc converter to maintain a voltage high enough for the auxiliary load. Since the load must therefore be sensed somewhere after the battery, is it possible/practicable to connect the auxiliary battery and/load after the point at which the load is measured (vs directly from the main battery terminal). If so, where?
And then: are the power outlets in the JGC, especially the rear one, connected in a way that the load they supply is measured by the management system?
Thanks, Russell
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  #774  
Old 04-06-2014, 03:09 PM
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Russell,

I posted a reply here: The MY14 2nd Battery and DC Thread
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  #775  
Old 04-06-2014, 04:38 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Thanks Corey - i now recall having seen that thread before!
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  #776  
Old 04-06-2014, 09:54 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
This is not strictly a towing question, but does seem to be a reasonable place to pose it:
I've been searching the forum and other sites to figure out a good way to connect an auxiliary battery. Most seem to say that a dc-dc converter is the best way to go especially in the case of controlled output alternators,,as it maintains a high enough voltage for charging, and for fridges etc.
However, a disadvantage is that the charge current to the auxiliary battery is limited by the converter, to a lot lower value than if it was directly connected to the alternator when the alternator is producing at the higher level of its voltage range ( resulting in a lot more driving time to charge the auxiliary battery.)
So the question is: Is there a way (or a suitably intelligent converter) to connect the alternator,directly to the auxiliary battery when the alternator is producing a suitably high voltage, but via the converter when the voltage is reduced by the management system?
A related question: given that the alternator output is controlled by the electrical load at any given time, then if the auxiliary load (eg a fridge) was sensed by the management system, then there would be less need for a dc-dc converter to maintain a voltage high enough for the auxiliary load. Since the load must therefore be sensed somewhere after the battery, is it possible/practicable to connect the auxiliary battery and/load after the point at which the load is measured (vs directly from the main battery terminal). If so, where?
And then: are the power outlets in the JGC, especially the rear one, connected in a way that the load they supply is measured by the management system?
Thanks, Russell
You might want to look at some of my earlier posts. I have a Projecta 150A electronic isolator slotted in next to the battery with very heavy cables running the shortest distance to a 175A Anderson plug. I chose these to take advantage of the 220A alternator. What fancy battery management system the Kimberley Kamper has, I don't know but it works like a dream, no DC-DC converter, no circuit breakers, no cut-out issues, no issues with the controlled output alternator
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  #777  
Old 04-13-2014, 04:04 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Can anyone tell me if a 2011 Mopar towbar will fit a 2014 ?
Thinking of swapping my towbar over.
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  #778  
Old 04-13-2014, 05:00 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

My MY14 has a 2011-2013 WK2 towbar installed, so yes, it's going to fit.

Have you chased quotes though? I only paid $460... it seems like a lot of work for the gain, plus you're deleting an asset from the donor vehicle. What about the bumper cutout? :thumbdown:

Just my thoughts...
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  #779  
Old 04-14-2014, 03:44 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I know I am probably answering my own question here, but just in case.

Hooked up the van to the JGC on the weekend all good, didnt even know it was there !!!

Problem is I have my adjustable HR WDH adjustable hitch from my last car, I cannot drop it any more but the Jayco is still about 15-20mm to high on the towball, is there any way to tell the airbag suspension to drop itself any further is there ???

Dont really want to buy another WDH.

Cheers
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:50 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Sport mode on the auto runs the car in "aero" height. That's as low as she goes while moving... unless you tweak the Quadralift height potentiometer links.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit: You'd be pushing to get 20mm though!
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