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  #793  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:34 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Moved from the wrong thread to here.

In the latest (Apr/May) issue of Caravan & RV, a reader has written in asking for the magazines opinion of which vehicle to buy; A Prado or Grand Cherokee for his families 2015 five month trip, which must include towing. It seems the 'loaner' Jeep at Caravan & RV magazine has also had transmission overheating issues (as well as DPF full, see Is DPF issue for 2014 CRD fixed now?). I have read in this, and other forums, where owners have had gearbox overheating issues but mostly with heavier vans towing in ECO and mostly with the five speed box. The magazine seems to think that fitting additional cooling may be the answer.

I believe Australian Specification vehicles already have the additional cooling factory fitted.

I am of the opinion that towing in ECO mode is not wise. From my understanding, the function of ECO mode is to change the normal 'Drive' gearbox shift points to lower in the rev range. (That is, it will always select the highest gear possible for the given speed) Conversely, having the gearbox in Sport, has the opposite effect in that it holds onto gears for longer before upshifting. It also changes down to lower gears faster/more quickly when accelerating (rather than relying on the engines torque) and earlier when decelerating to aid in engine braking. This is why I anticipate I will always tow in Sport mode whenever the road is anything but flat and straight with no headwind (ie steady speed, no extra load).

Is anyone out there following this 'concept' and still experiencing gearbox overheating/torque converter slippage?

Another observation: When I owned VW with a DSG box, as soon as I connected my trailer wiring it seemed to automatically disable the "STOP/START" function and change the gearbox shift points. I know the DSG still has clutches and slippage is not good for gearbox longevity, but surely the 'principal' is the same for an Automatic Gearbox with lock-up torque converter.
Again, my understanding is a torque converter is just a 'fluid clutch' in that if the load is too great for the gear the torque converter can 'slip' resulting in less than full engine power reaching the driven wheels. Changing in to a lower gear can allow the full engine power to be 'transmitted' to the driving wheels as the clutch/torque converter has stopped slipping.

Comments/Corrections welcome.

Gr8Ness
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  #794  
Old 04-23-2014, 12:47 AM
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I towed in Sport Mode over Easter transmission got into high 90s. I would not tow in ECO mode either.
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  #795  
Old 04-23-2014, 05:29 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Safety chain shackles. I think there has been some discussion of this, but i can't find the posts.
I am about to tow a new camper trailer from Sydney to the Kimberley's. I had a second safety chain fitted, and thought I would get shackles rated to take at least half the 300kg ball weight each. Found some, but they won't fit through the holes in my Mopar (Best Bar) tow bar. The largest which will fit are labeled as suitable for chains up to 6mm which is a lot less than what I have, and are only rated at 90kg.
It seems strange that shackles rated at the tow ball weight won't fit - and I imagine that impulse forces if the trailer was to come loose would exceed the tow ball rating.
So, can I drill out the holes in the tow bar to take heavier shackles, or does this risk breaching certifications and / or the strength of the tow bar?
I would value any comments,
Russell
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  #796  
Old 04-23-2014, 05:48 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Just to underline the importance of Russell's enquiry.
Photo shows our recent experience of 13 April on the Plenty Hwy. At 60kph on a very corrugated section of the 800 k of dirt. We dragged the van 12k like this to get to somewhere we could leave it to do the 260k into Alice Springs for a replacement. Ruined the wife's birthday.
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  #797  
Old 04-23-2014, 05:53 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
Safety chain shackles. I think there has been some discussion of this, but i can't find the posts.
Search for the word shackles in this thread and you will get the results.
Starts here with the Summit problem - The Towing thread
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  #798  
Old 04-23-2014, 05:55 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by John47 View Post
We dragged the van 12k like this
You know you can get professional plowing equipment that would have done a cleaner job.
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  #799  
Old 04-23-2014, 05:54 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by SNUKE View Post
You know you can get professional plowing equipment that would have done a cleaner job.
Actually the bull dust was so deep in parts that we didn't leave a mark. Compared to the 3 trailer double deck cattle trucks and the 4 trailer mine trucks our contribution was nothing.
I just had my fingers crossed we didn't encounter a cattle grid.
I was fortunate to get an exact replacement in Alice, so easily fixed apart from the adventure.
Just added to the experience.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:45 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by John47 View Post
Just to underline the importance of Russell's enquiry.
Photo shows our recent experience of 13 April on the Plenty Hwy. At 60kph on a very corrugated section of the 800 k of dirt. We dragged the van 12k like this to get to somewhere we could leave it to do the 260k into Alice Springs for a replacement. Ruined the wife's birthday.
John
And I thought Treg hitches were bullet proof. Apparently not. I'll have to keep an eye on mine. Thanks for the post and pic.
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Old 04-23-2014, 10:52 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
Safety chain shackles. I think there has been some discussion of this, but i can't find the posts.
I am about to tow a new camper trailer from Sydney to the Kimberley's. I had a second safety chain fitted, and thought I would get shackles rated to take at least half the 300kg ball weight each. Found some, but they won't fit through the holes in my Mopar (Best Bar) tow bar. The largest which will fit are labeled as suitable for chains up to 6mm which is a lot less than what I have, and are only rated at 90kg.
It seems strange that shackles rated at the tow ball weight won't fit - and I imagine that impulse forces if the trailer was to come loose would exceed the tow ball rating.
So, can I drill out the holes in the tow bar to take heavier shackles, or does this risk breaching certifications and / or the strength of the tow bar?
I would value any comments,
Russell
This post of mine might help The Towing thread
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  #802  
Old 04-24-2014, 03:51 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Thanks Bob - that is a useful post. I now have two 10 mm shackles each rated at 1000kg. My trailer ATM is 1000kg, so I think EACH shackle should be rated at 1500kg. But that is the highest rating I could find (in Bunnings!) which fits through the Mopar tow bar 13mm holes. The next rating up (2000kg) that I could find is 16mm. So I'm going to live with those, unless anyone can refer me to a higher rating which will fit.
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  #803  
Old 04-24-2014, 10:00 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by lt4vette View Post
Thanks Bob - that is a useful post. I now have two 10 mm shackles each rated at 1000kg. My trailer ATM is 1000kg, so I think EACH shackle should be rated at 1500kg. But that is the highest rating I could find (in Bunnings!) which fits through the Mopar tow bar 13mm holes. The next rating up (2000kg) that I could find is 16mm. So I'm going to live with those, unless anyone can refer me to a higher rating which will fit.
Don't get too hung up (pardon the pun) or the relationship between the shackle rating and the ATM unless you intend to hoist your trailer vertically with that shackle.
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  #804  
Old 04-25-2014, 10:06 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

only towed for the 2nd time today.
i swear there is something wrong with the tow bar install.

the car was making atrocious knocking noises from the rear. almost like driving over train tracks... and feeling banging through the body of the car.

and this is WITH the interference bolt now locked in place. when i didnt have it before.

compared to towing the same car trailer with the triton.. it's smooth no banging noises or shudder in the body of the car.

any ideas whether this is supposedly normal ?
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