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The Towing thread

314K views 2K replies 156 participants last post by  SouthernComfort 
#1 ·
Please place your queries and comments regarding towing, towbars, wiring, Brake Controllers, and any other Aussie towing matters here.

This way the information will be contained, and others will not need to plough though other irrevelent threads to find info.
 
#2 · (Edited)
For those recently purchased a Grand Cherokee, or about to purchase one, there are differences between the US towpack and that supplied to Australian export cars.
Towbar : The towbar used in the US does not comply to our standards, and therefore is not installed at the factory. Australia uses a bar manufactured in New Zealand by BEST BARS, and sold though the Mopar.AU site. Most dealers use this bar and hitch. Hayman Reece also do a suitable bar, but that bar is not 100% compatible, so the rear recovery hitch needs to be removed. Also just be aware that if you go the Hayman Reese towbar option you will NOT be able to fit the Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank. It was designed around the Mopar one only
Wiring: The towpack issues in the US includes the loom for brake controllers. For some reason, the Australian cars do not have this loom installed. You therefore need to wire a brake controller to power and the rear of the car. When dealers install a towbar, they leave a blue wire sitting up behind the rear passenger side panel (behind where the torch is stored).
Many owners recommend a 6mm wiring for controllers, and 6b&S wiring fort Anderson Plugs.
 
#3 ·
Good thread AllyPally. I've got a couple of comments.
Firstly, I have the dealer fitted BB from NZ and although they will not supply direct to the public (yet) the aftersales from the Melbourne rep is outstanding. Secondly, a chance discussion in the office last week has given me a potential problem. I tow a boat that weighs 2.25T on the tandem trailer. My trailer (manufactured 1997) has a TARE of 1990kg. I'm told many manufacturers in that time kept the TARE below 2T to avoid hydraulic brakes and brake controllers per ADR. Whilst I have cable operated overides, I wonder what the outcome would be in an insurance claim involving the trailer? The back axle has lugs so a retrofit to new calipers is possible....I wonder how much though including a brake controller, new 6mm cable and an Anderson?
 
#4 ·
I wonder how much though including a brake controller, new 6mm cable and an Anderson?
You may find that it is nearly cheaper to buy a whole new trailer. I've noticed that there are now trailers being imported as knock down kits from China.

They have aluminium side rails but gal cross bars so I'm not sure how they would go long term with the differing metals in contact with each other.
 
#5 ·
Cheers. Any further info on the imports. I was told $9k for a gal and around $11k for ally that I will never get back if I sell the boat.
 
#9 ·
However, if you installed the Hayman Reese towbar, you could use it, with a suitable adapter, for recovery.
This is what I would be doing, as I'd rather pull from the centre of the car, if ever needed.

Also just be aware that if you go the Hayman Reese towbar option you will NOT be able to fit the Long Range Automotive aux fuel tank. It was designed around the Mopar one only. (anyone want an HR towbar??)
 
#8 · (Edited)
Any further info on the imports.
Have a look at these :

http://petersontrailers.com.au/contact-us/

Duralum Trailers :: Aluminium Trailers

They say Australian made, but I suspect that means bolted together.

Every second boat at the Rosehill trailer boat show a few months ago was sitting on this style of trailer.

Your boat sounds a fair bit bigger than mine - I have an 18" bowrider so I don't really have a feel for what a trailer for a boat your size would cost. A few years ago I looked into a replacement for my Boeing, and they quoted $4,500. But I give mine the once over every year and it still has a fair bit of life in it yet. Boeing are fairly close to where I live and I can drop in and easily get spare parts etc, so I'm happy to support a local company.
 
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#11 ·
#12 ·
For the minority that it affects, HR have stated that theirs is also not compatible with the SRT model. I was leaning that way first because of ability to use different tongues, recovery hooks, etc but no go.

I also heard somewhere that the brake controller must not obstruct the knee airbag, do we have any info or how are people getting around this?
 
#19 ·
For the minority that it affects, HR have stated that theirs is also not compatible with the SRT model. I was leaning that way first because of ability to use different tongues, recovery hooks, etc but no go.

I also heard somewhere that the brake controller must not obstruct the knee airbag, do we have any info or how are people getting around this?
As John47 rightfully explained, the locations most popular with mounting a brake controller are
1. In the cubby below the aircon controls. You need to pull the facia off and half of the console. Looks a daunting operation, but not that bad, especially once you have seen it done.
2. Below the fuel release button. If you use a Redarc, there is plenty of room. A P3 will just fit.
3. On the left side of the steering column next to the airbag.

Both items 1, and 3, are close to the airbag, but should just miss it. Also, both of these locations might mean you need to drill holes in the dash.
I am installing a P3 below the fuel release, but to mount it, I am attaching it to a 3mm piece of Perspex, and I will then stick it with either Velcro or double sided tape.
 
#13 ·
My Tekonsha P3 is in the cubby in front of the console, out of sight and out of the way - suits us. I don't need to be looking at it all the time.
Others have fitted them
- below the fuel door latch and between the air bag door and the drivers door, (very tight for a P3)
- below the steering column,
- on top of the dash on the right hand side.
Depends on how handy the installer is, and personal preferences as far as access to the controller and your tolerance for working around it.
Some have used the Redarc remote head unit, with the knob under the fuel latch and the controller body hidden, looks neat but that controller isn't proportioanl and doesn't provide the braking control that a quality proportional type does.
There are plenty of photos around but most are buried in threads on here.
John
 
#14 ·
Hi,
I can't find an answer to the question to the question Auscop raises as quoted below. The response implies the “receiver hitch” is part of the Trailer Tow Group, but the “towbar” is not. I have always thought that the hitch was another name for the towbar.
From the brochure for the 2013 JGC, it would seem that indeed the hitch is (or at least was for 2013) included in the tow package:
Towing Capability

The Trailer Tow Group includes a Class IV receiver hitch, trailer tow wiring harness and Trailer Sway Control(1) (TSC). The all-new Jeep Grand Cherokee offers trailer tow capability of up to 2,268 kg on models equipped with the Pentastar™ V6 engine(2). Equip your Grand Cherokee with the 3.0-litre CRD diesel engine or legendary 5.7-litre HEMI® engine and you're ready for loads of up to 3,500 kg(2).( http://www.jeep.com.au/features-a-specs/capability/jeep-grand-cherokee-towing ).


I am trying to find out:
  1. Is a hitch different to a tow bar, and what does that mean in this context?
  2. Does the Trailer Tow Group include a hitch, towbar, or both?
  3. Does the 2014 Overland with ORAII include a Trailer Tow Group?

Can anyone shed light on this? I have done various forum searches, but haven't found anything.
Thanks,
Russell
“Quote:
Originally Posted by auscop
The question I still seem to not be able to get answered is does the Overland CRD come standard with the trailer tow pack. By what I saw on the US site and on my build sheet I thought it did. But I saw a bunch of people ordering it with their Overland on the bulk buy group??

REPLY: I think QuadraLift package includes Trailer Tow Grp (7 & 4 pins wiring harness + class IV receiver hitch). Dealer charges extra for tow bar/ball and electric trailer brake.”





 
#29 ·
I am trying to find out:
  1. Is a hitch different to a tow bar, and what does that mean in this context?
  2. Does the Trailer Tow Group include a hitch, towbar, or both?
  3. Does the 2014 Overland with ORAII include a Trailer Tow Group?

1: Terminology wise yes, and it can be confusing when people say tow bar when what they really mean is Hitch receiver.

A towbar is all in one bar attached to your vehicle with the tow ball mount as part of it.


What we all want on out Jeeps are Hitch Receivers. This is the bar bolted to the vehicle with 50mm x 50mm square receiving hole into with you insert a removable towball mount


For the most part if you say tow bar, we will know what you mean, but I will be the anal bastard that winces every time. Goes back to dealing with customers that constantly got them mixed up and could end up with wrong product.

Hitch receivers always have a higher weight rating to towball towbars.

2: None of these, it includes Full Size Spare Tire, Heavy Duty Engine Cooling, Rear Load Leveling Suspension. This is all standard on Aus spec cars but part of the trailer Tow Group for US cars. This group also includes for them the hitch receiver and wiring harness

3: as point 2, all Aus cars include the Tow Group, none of them include a hitch receiver though. This is an optional extra of approx $1100 - $1200 fitted including wiring.
 
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#15 ·
Hi, got an email from my dealer today, they are expecting my beautiful Bright White Laredo CRD to arrive Friday or Monday -yay yay yay!!!!
I have a towing question (forgive me, just a non mechanical girl) I am getting a tow bar fitted by the dealer before I pick it up and I'm not sure if I should get Jeep to fit an electric brake controller, a GSL brand? for around $650 or I should get an auto elec to remove the Primus IQ controller from my current car and fit to the JGC? I'm hoping someone knows which would be the best quality electric brake controller to have for towing my small caravan. I figure there will be no tears if Jeep do the installation?
Thanks so much in advance :)
Robbie
 
#16 ·
Hi Robbie......considering that the GSL is available retail for $105 12V Electric Trailer Brake Controller GSL Remote Head Will Work ON LOW Voltage | eBay
I guess you have part of your question answered. Unfortunately you will find in this and other Jeep forums that dealers generally DON"T get a rap for looking after their customers.
If you go to plan B and have an autoelec remove your Primus and refit I believe you would be well in front. If you are familiar with it and it works presently, there is no reason it will be different with your new Jeep.
Have the installer take the feed for the brake switch from the trailer plug stop light wiring, and there should be no issues or conflict with the vehicle. Mine is wired that way and in 18 months we've clocked up over 30,000k towing - no conflict and works perfectly.
If you want to fit the best quality then that would be the well respected Tekonsha P3 - a set and forget controller that you won't regret purchasing.
A P3 can be wired direct from the battery via a circuit breaker (they go to "sleep" when no movement is detected), and earthed anywhere convenient. Very easy to install - even DIY.
Good luck - and you will be wrapped in your new CRD Laredo!!
John
 
#18 ·
it4vette, I will try to answer your questions.
First of all, the US towbar and hitch is not compliant with Australian regulations, so it is not factory supplied on cars destined for ANZ.
The wiring, which is in the US cars, used for a simple Brake Controller fitting is also not added to our cars.
The towbar, which is the bar that gets bolted to the chassis is supplied by Best Bars in NZ and sold as a Mopar accessory. The Hitch, is the part which slides into the towbar and incorporates the Towball.
If you order a Towbar from the dealer, as part of your purchase, they will install it and supply a hitch and towball, as well as a 7 pin flat socket. The towpack is not standard on any of the models.
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the replies, will investigate when I actually have the car to see.

I have seen the photos and instructions of a P3 in the cubby but was not leaning this way as the MY14 has all the ports in there that I don't really want to block.
 
#21 ·
As others have said, my personal preference for the location of the brake controller (P3) is in the centre cubby.

I had my local auto elec instal it after I took them the trim removal instructions off wk2jeeps.com.

My other option was going to be on the RHS of the instrument cluster on top of the dash but it would require either drilling into the leather or sticking something to it. In the end I'm glad it is where it is.
 
#22 ·
As others have said, my personal preference for the location of the brake controller (P3) is in the centre cubby.
I had my local auto elec instal it after I took them the trim removal instructions off wk2jeeps.com.

My other option was going to be on the RHS of the instrument cluster on top of the dash but it would require either drilling into the leather or sticking something to it. In the end I'm glad it is where it is.
After looking at the location of the media options in the Overland, I can't see the P3 fitting in the cubby location. I'm looking for an alternative to get around the air bags as well. If someone out there is fitting the P3 in their MY14, please let me know your solution.
 
#26 ·
Buster, IMHO the information you are getting is rubbish. The 2014 is not different relating to fitment of a brake controller for towing.
It seems from your information they are trying to sell you a Redarc remote head brake controller. Likely the reason is the unit itself can be easily fitted out of sight with only a knob visible to control the braking effect delivered.
There are numbers of happy WK2 owners with this unit fitted and they are less than $200 available on line.
The main issue is that this controller is not proportional - it delivers power according to the knob dial position. Differing conditions do require the knob to be adjusted to suit.
A proportional controller will deliver power according to how hard the the brake pedal is pressed. Quality units like the Tekonsha are "set and forget".
Most people experienced in towing will go for a proportional controller every time - but the Redarc may suit your needs.
Do a bit of homework on the different types of controllers available - that way you won't be stuck with an antiquated piece of gear just because the dealer thought that is what you wanted.
The picture in Matty470's post shows a Tekonsha P3 - one of the best available.
John
 
#25 · (Edited)
That equates to roughly $300 for labour (given that the P3 is available for $164 on line free postage, plus a bit for the Anderson plug and cable).
Probably not super cheap but depending on where you ask the autolectrician to fit the P3. If it is going in the cubby then that's pretty good.
I would say it is reasonable though if the guy turns out quality work, and uses 6B&S cable and an ignition switched relay for the Anderson plug.
Anyone looking to fit a controller or anything else may find it worth looking at the trim removal section on WK2 Jeeps site (as Matty mentioned in a previous post).
WK2Jeeps.com - 2011-2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee menu page
John
 
#27 ·
I'm not sure if this is a towing thread issue, but it is sort of related. I have been doing a bit of research about running accessories - such as 12V fridges - off the vehicle battery, as you might do through a 12V connection to a towed van or camper trailer. It seems that the charging systems in many modern cars - including the JGC - carefully regulate the charging voltage and current based on the current draw from the battery. The current draw is measured by the system through either the earth connection or the +ve line from the battery. The implication is that if the supply for an accessory is drawn upstream of the sensor for the current draw (in an extreme case this might be the battery +ve terminal), then the charging system will be unaware of it, and incorrectly calculate the charge current required, resulting in a damaged or flat battery (especially significant for the AGM batteries in the JGC).
The solution to this would seem to be an "approved" access point for a 12V supply, to ensure that the charging system is aware of the additional current draw. Although some recommend DC-DC converters to effectively isolate the accessories from the charging system.
Does anyone have any more insight to this with respect to the JGC, and whether it would be safe to entrust an auto electrician to connect an accessory safely? Or indeed the dealer!
 
#37 ·
There are plenty of ways of achieving a power supply to a second battery or to a van or trailer in a WK2.
You are right in that the jeep employs a Canbus wiring system, and this means that a 12v tap can't simply be taken from anywhere along the wiring.
Most will connect either to the jump start terminals under the bonnet, or direct to the battery under the drivers seat (this is usually easiest because it saves coming through the firewall).
Personally I use a Piranha battery isolator mounted down beside the battery, and this supplies all my accessories, (except for the brake controller which is wired direct from the battery via a 30a circuit breaker). Using the battery isolator (or an suitably sized ignition switched relay) means that an accessory load will not flatten the battery when the engine is switched off, and when the engine is running it is seen by the Jeep as an additional battery load - and hence compensated for.
My choice for running a fridge was to add a second battery in a case fitted behind the fridge, and to charge this battery via a 30a DC-DC charger, clipped to the top of the battery case.
This gives me a simple system, allows the DC-DC charger to fully maintain my second battery, and avoids issues or conflict with the Jeep charging regime.
I've used Anderson plugs to connect to the charger, and to the battery - by using a 6 B&S 12v extension lead I can power the charger (and hence the fridge battery) from our caravan when parked up and the Jeep hasn't been started for a few days.
By unclipping the charger, I can plug it into the van, and use the same extension lead back to the Jeep, idling the engine I can get 30a into my van batteries in inclement weather.
In 18months and 30,000k of towing the van this system has worked very well for our use.
Any competent autoelec should be able to supply and install a similar system, or any variation. I guess the main problem is that unless you can see the quality of his work beforehand and get references from satisfied customers, there is always a risk of not getting the result you want. For that reason, I've done the homework and tackled the job myself. It's done properly, works great, and I know all its innards - that gives me confidence when we are out in the shrubbery.
John
 
#28 ·
Ditto on what John47 has advised.
BUSTER01, I don't know what that dealer was smoking, but it may have been a owners manual, which he preferred to burn rather than read.
Firstly, there are no electric brakes on a Grand Cherokee. The electric brakes are on a caravan. In order to activate them, you require a Electric Brake Controller to be fitted to the Jeep. This will allow you to adjust the pressure your car's braking system sends to the trailer brakes.
The best place I have found to buy these controllers is an ebay seller autoelecau items - Get great deals on 4wd Related, Dual Battery Systems items on eBay Stores!
They sell several brands of controller including the Redarc. The Redarc is tiny in comparison, but, does not use the same system as the Tekonsha P3. I think most caravaners these days select the Tekonsha.
The ebay seller which I mentioned, sells controllers with an installation kit, which includes the wiring. It is excellent value. I recommend you do most of the work yourself, and if unsure, get a sparky to make the connections. That way, you should get out for less than $300.
I will be doing an install in my MY12 in the next few weeks, and will attempt to do a complete writeup with photos.
 
#30 ·
Thanks guys. My error not the dealer's. I should have referred to the controller. We bought the car off the dealer who said to get an auto elec to fit it. Now I just need to find a good one ( it took a long time for the prado to recover from what 1 elec did to it!). Definitely want the set and forget model. The caravan dealership has someone they use. When the time gets closer I will quiz them. Great info, much appreciated!
 
#38 ·
I was reading that thread yesterday when looking for mounting pictures, but you never did finish it of with final pics of the mounting position.
Admittedly I was only skim reading but I do recall you saying several times you weren't hard mounting it as it was a demo vehicle.
 
#43 ·
Butts, to answer your question from the other thread.

Where do you plan to fit your P3?
I'm actually not sure where I am going to put it. I only just got my enumber and found out that I am going to be waiting till September for my car anyway. I was hoping to find a way to put it under the dash, in the driver foot area.

On my current Subaru I'm really happy with where I put it. The interior fuse box has a door on the lower sloped part of the dash. I managed to secure the P3 bracket inside such that:
1) When I remove the P3(which is the usual state, unless we are camping), the fuses are still accessible and the door still shuts.
2) With the P3 installed, it sticks out just a couple of cm, is easily visible and usable.

I didn't look when I saw a real GC at this in detail and can't find any photos to see if something similar is possible, I suspect not.
 
#44 ·
Butts, to answer your question from the other thread.

I'm actually not sure where I am going to put it. I only just got my enumber and found out that I am going to be waiting till September for my car anyway. I was hoping to find a way to put it under the dash, in the driver foot area.

On my current Subaru I'm really happy with where I put it. The interior fuse box has a door on the lower sloped part of the dash. I managed to secure the P3 bracket inside such that:
1) When I remove the P3(which is the usual state, unless we are camping), the fuses are still accessible and the door still shuts.
2) With the P3 installed, it sticks out just a couple of cm, is easily visible and usable.

I didn't look when I saw a real GC at this in detail and can't find any photos to see if something similar is possible, I suspect not.
I hope to pick up my Jeep on Friday next week and I'll be taking it straight to the auto electrician so we can discuss options. I'll let you know what we decide.
 
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