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  #1021  
Old 07-20-2014, 10:20 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by allypally View Post
As promised, photos of the HR Hitch with a Mopar Bar.

From the images, you can see that the HR Hitch has 3 pre drilled bolt holes. When inserting the hitch into the Mopar receptor, the shaft gets stuck before lining up with the last hole, despite no obvious obstruction in the Mopar part.
I have ground off the corners of the shaft, but with very little success. I am reluctant to further grind away, as I really need to identify exactly where it is sticking, as I do not want to grind an area if not required, as that will lead to a sloppy fit, and rattles.
Ally,
From your pics, it seems to me that the restriction is caused by how the HR adaptor flares out to the rear. If this is so, you certainly shouldn't attempt to grind back the flare. This is a highly stressed part but if you chamfered the top and bottom of the entry hole of the receiver a bit you might get it in just far enough.
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  #1022  
Old 07-20-2014, 10:59 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Mine is also of the old solid steel piece with a single hole for the pin, not the cast one like Ally pictured above.


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  #1023  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:00 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

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Originally Posted by Boxheadmr View Post
I got hold of the local HR guys and they told me that modifying the set up could void the warranty. (No big surprise)
I asked if I could cut it down and that was a big no no apparently as it is a cast piece and when i go to drill a another hole for the hitch pin it could cause fractures.
After talking to him for a bit I ended up grinding down the edges a little at a time to ensure I get the tightest fit.

Attachment 42721Attachment 42722
Wow! Is that truly solid? Just goes to show the stresses they expect with WDHs. I suspect it is not cast but rolled billet. I could be wrong. If it is rolled, drilling another pin hole should not be an issue for a workshop with a drill press. The hole must be to the van side (rear) of the existing hole and spaced at least about the width of the hole from the existing hole. The van side of the pin hole is the most stressed side so ideally should not have another hole in it. Whatever of the adapter sticks out in front past the end of the receiver can be safely cut off whether cast or rolled. If in doubt, have it engineered but it may not be worth it.

As a side note, scientists have discovered that drilling a line of holes strengthens rather than weakens. This was discovered during a poo break trying in vain to tear the toilet paper along the holes.
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  #1024  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:01 PM
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Re: The Towing thread

Maybe them oldies are the goodies?

I'm still vacillating on which to buy, if either.

Cheers,
Steve

Edit: This relates to posts previous to Bob's discussion ending with comparisons to bog roll. :sly:
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  #1025  
Old 07-21-2014, 12:04 AM
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Bit off track but related to towing.
Spent a week up at Sawpit Creek (NSW near Perisher) last week. Was snowing as we came up the mountain. Got some concerned looks from people putting on snow chains as I continued on past them.
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  #1026  
Old 07-21-2014, 12:07 AM
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  #1027  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:47 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Cradle Mountain last Friday! Snow setting...oh yeah, works on ice too.uploadfromtaptalk1405939769301.jpg
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  #1028  
Old 07-21-2014, 06:08 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

U guys are nuts caravaning in the snow. I thought u bought a caravan to move to where it is warmer not colder
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  #1029  
Old 07-21-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverhammer View Post
Cradle Mountain last Friday! Snow setting...oh yeah, works on ice too.
That's awesome.

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Originally Posted by Boxheadmr View Post
U guys are nuts caravaning in the snow. I thought u bought a caravan to move to where it is warmer not colder
No it's about experiencing every climate in this great country, whilst being able to sleep in your own bed and sit on your own toilet.
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  #1030  
Old 07-21-2014, 08:39 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Got it right Bigskiddy. But sitting in a van with 20C from a gas heater makes it just a bit wussy probably.
Max
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  #1031  
Old 07-26-2014, 12:28 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

I'm just trying to wire up a couple of small LED lightbars as extra reversing lights, but I'm having trouble locating the wire form the reversing lights. My tow bar, non factory but is Mopar, has been wired as a 5 pin with a 7 pin flat plug, so nothing at the plug to use. (the dealer may have taken the easy way out, I'll be discussing that).
My question is does anybody know where the wire can be found, it seems to go across the roof from the tail gate. I would really prefer to link the extra reversing LEDImageUploadedByJeepGarage1406352525.501029.jpg lights in with cars rev lights with a switch on the dash. If I have to I'll wire them independently and turn them on when needed.


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  #1032  
Old 07-26-2014, 01:30 AM
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Re: The Towing thread

Sorry guys, but I'm resurrecting one of the epic MY14 sub-topics... the "splice in" trailer wiring loom. Specifically, the connection for activating electric trailer brakes. I've read back until I glazed over, searched until I'd found Bob's signature text a thousand times, and reconsidered all that I knew previously.

The Scene:
- The brake switch switched wire on WK2s does not provide an adequate voltage to trigger the input on the P3, hence it is often connected to a brake light wire in the boot.
- The brake light circuit for a MY14 is different to previous models due to the lighting circuit to all brake lights not being commoned, but individual supplies from an ECU.
- If connected to one tail-light on a MY14, manual operation of the brake controller will not activate all of the brake lights.
- Operation of all brake lights under manual control is required by legislation.
- Commoning all the brake light circuits is likely to produce a sh!tstorm of errors from the brake light ECU.

I've read that using a relay on the brake pedal switch appears to be common. This slightly increases the complexity of a critical circuit, however routine testing should reduce the risk of getting caught out by failure at an inopportune moment. I've spent a while attempting to come up with an alternative solution using power diodes at the brake light feeds, but it quickly gets way out of hand... and nothing says that the ECU isn't going to see a series diode as a failed lamp.

Any comments and/or further ideas? Otherwise I guess it is to be a relay on the brake pedal switch...

Cheers,
Steve
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