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The Towing thread

314K views 2K replies 156 participants last post by  SouthernComfort 
#1 ·
Please place your queries and comments regarding towing, towbars, wiring, Brake Controllers, and any other Aussie towing matters here.

This way the information will be contained, and others will not need to plough though other irrevelent threads to find info.
 
#444 ·
Certainly looks the part - you'll be keen to pack it up and get it dirty!!
How the LIfepo4 batteries will perform will be interesting - definitely a weight saving there too.
We are away next week on a 5K loop with the van to Vic and the far south coast of NSW - after a 40K service for the Jeep this week.
 
#446 ·
Going up Toowoomba range or Cunninhams gap water temp goes up quickly
Usually goes to half way or about 109

Have not looked at trans temp too scarded
 
#465 ·
The real question here is "why would your breakaway battery fail"? It is charged from your caravan battery, and if you are smart, also from your car. It is common sense to regularly check it, and that does not need to be as regular as weekly. I would say before a trip should be suffice.
 
#467 ·
I have removed all the covers in the back of the Jeep in preparation to install the brake controller and some wiring for battery systems for the caravan. The dual battery cable for the van are two 25sq mm cables which is big plus a couple of smaller twin cables.

The question I am asking is anyone who has run cables from the battery to the under the rear of the Jeep is which way did you go from the rear of the Jeep to underneath to the towbar.

When the dealer ran the trailer connector they ran the cable through a vent in the back mudguard that relieves pressure from inside when a door is closed , but stops dust getting inside due to a rubber flap. Now with cable going through it dust will come inside. This will also need to re routed.

Warren
 
#468 ·
I have removed all the covers in the back of the Jeep in preparation to install the brake controller and some wiring for battery systems for the caravan. The dual battery cable for the van are two 25sq mm cables which is big plus a couple of smaller twin cables. The question I am asking is anyone who has run cables from the battery to the under the rear of the Jeep is which way did you go from the rear of the Jeep to underneath to the towbar. When the dealer ran the trailer connector they ran the cable through a vent in the back mudguard that relieves pressure from inside when a door is closed , but stops dust getting inside due to a rubber flap. Now with cable going through it dust will come inside. This will also need to re routed. Warren
Warren, there are plastic bungs in the floor under the spare tyre, the trailer plug wire is ment to run through one of these, it is also where I routed my power cable to charge the camper trailer, with lots of sikaflex to seal it up
Yoda
 
#469 ·
I ran wires the same as Yoda.
If you use the pressure vent, the wire will hold the flap partly open, therefore inviting dust into the cabin.
Basically the wires can run out of the side hole in the battery compartment (to under scuff plate, down the driver's side panels, and into the boot space. From there drop it through one of the plastic plugholes, and silicon around it.
 
#470 ·
Rather than run the cable (6B&S) through the cabin (and the hassle of stripping out trims), I chose an alternative route. I used a 25mm metal hole saw to cut a hole in the back of the battery box, rustproofed it, painted it, then cut a hole in a blank grommet to run the wire. Looks factory.

I use a CTEK D250s in my camper, so didn't need to fit an isolator. I fitted a 50a CB inside the battery box, and encased the wires in convoluted tubing, then ran it over the fuel tank and through various openings in the "chassis" to keep it up. I allowed for reasonable movement, but tied the cable off at semi regular intervals.

There's plenty of room for me to run an additional cable for my fridge if needed.
 
#471 ·
Thanks for the replies. I thought about plugs in tyre well would be a easy way.
I was going to look inside the battery compartment for a grommet (or install one) as the 3 lots of battery cables will be bulky and under the car might be the way to go.
I have attached a picture of the cable going through the vent.

Like others the clamp screws holding the air tank in position weren't tight.
 

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#475 ·
I told dealer to mount it on left side for better access to that socket.
Got a call saying the bracket I gave with controller is no good and they need the steel one.
Can't find it, so I think I will go with my old plan of cutting out some EVA foam to hold it in place.
 
#476 ·
I told dealer to mount it on left side for better access to that socket.
Got a call saying the bracket I gave with controller is no good and they need the steel one.
Can't find it, so I think I will go with my old plan of cutting out some EVA foam to hold it in place.
I just jammed mime up there with a piece of foam between that and the Ridge as I also could not find the other brackets. Works fine for me but then my camper is only a little over the unbraked limit anyway.
 
#477 ·
Ours is never that heavy either and have never had to use brake booster level before. Don't expect to ever either, so not really to concerned.
 
#478 ·
I need some towing mirrors for my 2014 GC.

Bought some from Repco which were no good.

In doing some research my shortlist is either the Milenco Aero 2 or the Brunsgaard 4 point.

I have seen the ORA Italia but they have a single strap around the mirror which is the same as the Repco ones.

I don't want ones that have a strap against the door or those suction/magnetic arms.

Any other suggestions??
 
#479 ·
I've got the Brunsgaards. Bit fiddly putting them together (Allen key city) but once set up very easy to put on and take off. Solid as a rock while towing and no damage at all to the GC mirrors. The Brunsgaard mirrors themselves are on the small side but do the job for me. I'd recommend them.
 
#480 ·
Just got confirmation my off road caravan will be built in February next year as they close for Xmas. With two spare wheels on van as part of deal I war going to have one for van and one for JGC. I have been looking on eBay no luck. Any suggestions where I can get a wheel. Thanks
 
#481 ·
Thought I would share a photo of the remote electric brake unit I had fitted in my JGC Ltd my14. Unfortunately the dealer must of cleaned the interior before we picked it up earlier in the week and the stickers are not staying in place very well. I did like the Redarc better as it is neater but the hayman reese has the extra sync button so you can adjust the time it takes to reach the full brake output voltage.
 
#484 ·
Hello

Could you let me know if all 3 of the Jeep brake lights come on when you push the manual override button on the brake controller.

Just trying to get some more info to put to my dealer on this problem.

Cheers Brad.
 
#489 ·
Hi all,

I finally had a chance to check out and test drive the new 8-speed transmission 2014 WK2--wow! I'm sold and want to get a new G.Cherokee in the coming weeks.

Question in reference to the "Trailer Tow Group IV" package. The dealers near me don't have any units in the configuration I'm interested in:
2014 G.Cherokee Overland
6cyl (3.6 liter gas)
4x2, never drive off road in the G.Cherokee; that's what the Wrangler is for.
--> $795 Trailer Tow Group IV in case I need to tow something. But, Jeep's website says this package includes/implies upgraded cooling, load-leveling suspension, 220-Amp alternator and more importantly, better brakes.

I'm interested in everyone's opinion, is ordering one with the trailer tow group IV worth it in order to get the enhanced/upgraded components ?

Thanks in advance for your time.
 
#492 ·
Thanks for the responses Xdra10 and Silverhammer.

Xdra10, the local dealers actually have exactly what I'm interested in however, they're either Cashmere, Green or Red, neither of which I'm buying. In order to get and Overland 4x2, Billet Silver with Trailer Tow Package IV, I'd have to special order from JNAP which greatly diminishes any negotiating room for me on price. ;-)

Silverhammer, I totally agree with you on the diesel motor, especially when it comes to the torque-wow! However, for my needs/wants, the USD $4,500 premium is too much to justify. Don't get me wrong, if both motor options were the same price, I'd get the CRD. Are you saying Jeep also swaps out the suspension's coils when the Trailer Tow Package IV is installed at the factory?
 
#493 ·
Picked up my new boat yesterday. Guess where I am now. Yep back at the dealer. It has an American style hitch which is complete crap. Found out last night trying to park it on my drive that it does not have a manual brake. WTF. My drive is a little steep and i dont trust a couple of chocks to stop it crashing into the back pf my GC when i wound ip the jocky wheel. I was iffy about it when I ordered but my focus was on the boat not the trailer. So another 300k today to take it back to dealer to get an Aus type hitch welded on. What a drama....
 
#497 ·
What type of boat is it?
I to have a US trailer and it also has no park brake so I have to always carry wheel chocks with me.

Post some picks of your new set up.
 
#495 ·
Here is how the put the wire in for the brake controller.
I may just pull it out when not is use. There is a square section of EVA foam in the boot, they may be good enough to jam in and stop any movement with some slight cutting.

 
#499 ·
It's a MY14 Searay 190 Sport, as far as I know it's one of the first delivered in Aus. I replaced a 2002 model, Very happy with the boat, but the trailer is junk compared to my old Boeing. I also use chocks, but I just don't think it is safe without a manual brake as well. Anyway, should be sorted with a new hitch by next weekend.
 

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#507 ·
It's amasing they could get the trailer registered with a foreign hitch
They have recently been complied for Australia. I must say that the design is quite neat and tidy - the hydraulic reservoir is inside the draw bar, all low profile and neat, nothing to trip on or get caught. The design of the trailer also has the boat sitting quite low, so centre of gravity is good and makes for easier launch at the boat ramp. But in reality turned out that my initial scepticism was correct and it is form over function as far as the hitch is concerned - it is rubbish.

Coming home on the freeway I noticed a new Bayliner with a similar American hitch, so looks like they are becoming more common.
 
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#510 ·
I'm wondering whether the American trailers are galvanised as heavily as ours? We do most of our boating in salt water whereas they would do most theirs in fresh.
 
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