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The Towing thread

314K views 2K replies 156 participants last post by  SouthernComfort 
#1 ·
Please place your queries and comments regarding towing, towbars, wiring, Brake Controllers, and any other Aussie towing matters here.

This way the information will be contained, and others will not need to plough though other irrevelent threads to find info.
 
#967 ·
Just noticed an Aussie eBay seller advertising the P3 with selectable trailer profiles, so maybe there's no point looking offshore to save twenty bucks. There again, there's nothing to say they're not selling the US version either!
 
#968 · (Edited)
There does seem to be a difference in the part no - 90195 in the US where the specs mention the storable profile, against 90195A for the units marketed here.
Whether there is a difference I couldn't say. At a guess it could be a firmware upgrade.
I purchased mine from Autoelec in Bairnsdale, very happy with the price and service 4 years ago. Getting the US version in Australia might be a bit of a lucky dip.
I've been more than pleased with the performance of the unit, fitted by myself in the cubby. Early on while towing with the Patrol, I used to fiddle with the boost and settings, but since towing with the Jeep, in practice the controller never gets touched now. It just does the job regardless. Likely this situation may be influenced by the fact the Jeeps brakes are so good.
From my experience after over 40k of towing with the Jeep and AU version of the P3, you would be happy with whatever one you finished up with.

John
 
#969 ·
I'm 98% sure you can have stored profiles. Tried looking this morning but with nothing connected couldn't get it to work. Will be hooking up on Friday and let you know.
I got mine through Jayco, supplied as part of my caravan purchase.

I noticed last week when I hooked up a mates trailer a picture of a flat bed truck came up, which I never noticed before.
 
#970 ·
My owners manual, for my Autoelec supplied AU 90195A model P3 is titled for Model 90195.
It doesn't mention storing profiles.
Perhaps there has been an upgraded P3 released in the 4 years I have had mine. It is possible AU sellers haven't updated their product descriptions.
John
 
#971 ·
Thanks John... thorough as always! I think the update may have occurred since you purchased... based on what I read while half asleep last night.

Bigskiddy if you could let me know what you find in the menu with the trailer connected that'd be great too. Does the manual mention profiles?

Cheers,
Steve
 
#972 · (Edited)
It's got me intrigued.........
I just looked at the Cequent (Tekonsha) site for the P3 manual, (on the data page for the unit), and the manual - revision C, 02/12 (after I purchased), references storing profiles by pressing the Boost button for 2 seconds.
My unit doesn't do this, no matter how long you press the button (with trailer connected), it only changes the boost setting. And yes, the features information on the Cequent site notes storing trailer profiles is a "New" feature.
I reckon an email to your selected seller (if it is a high volume one like Autoelec) to confirm your P3 purchase is the latest model and with the selectable profiles would have a happy ending.
Good luck
John
 
#976 ·
Couldn't find an "A" anywhere just 90195. The box and manual are written in 5 different languages so wouldn't think Australian specific.
I notice that the manual shown on the Caravans Plus website does not have anything about storable settings.
As John47 said, check with the seller before you purchase, will be on the side of box as previously pictured.
 
#977 ·
Personally I think the profiles have little value for the average vanner. If one was constantly switching between 2 or 3 rigs then yes they would be good but otherwise just a PITA. Nevertheless it is an added feature that won't hurt Tekonsha's sales at all.
 
#978 ·
I have two trailers with brakes, although one is currently an override system... until it needs work, and then that gear is outta there.

The appeal for me is being able to set a bitumen profile and a dirt road profile.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#980 ·
It bothers me when I'm following a large trailer and the tow vehicle doesn't have proper tow mirrors.
If you can't see the driver he can't see you either.

I have read every post in this thread but has somebody already suggested a "load levelling" hitch system? It will help keep the trailer any tow vehicle level and reduce fish tailing.
 
#988 ·
It bothers me when I'm following a large trailer and the tow vehicle doesn't have proper tow mirrors.
If you can't see the driver he can't see you either.

I tow a 20ft caravan without proper tow mirrors, but if you look at the centre rear of my van you'll notice a camera which is on permanently when I'm towing and the screen clips over the existing rear view mirror. Almost the same as looking straight through the van.
 
#981 ·
The problem with load levelling systems is they can't be left on when off-road. I'm aiming to get the balance right so I can maintain a ball weight the car can handle unassisted... however I understand that this isn't possible as the van's weight heads past 2.5T or so.

As far as sway control goes, our new purchase has Al-Ko ESC... and the car apparently assists with trailer stability too. In technology I'll trust!

All this said, I'm sure that the Hayman Reece weight distribution has received airtime here, as it's a proven system that seems to be the "go to" solution when levelling is required.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#984 ·
Probably tractors and farm trailers these days ;)

Nothing was specified, so I just regurgitated my thoughts. On road... no problem with trailer articulation.

I'll have to rethink my plan. I don't know why I was thinking the WDH requirement kicked in at 250kg. Internet isn't being my friend tonight. It's a pity my guaranteed correct data source isn't parked in the driveway to go and check :(
 
#985 ·
Ahhhhhh, get it right before Snuke comes along......
Jeep recommend a WDH be used with all available suspension systems when towing an ATM over 2268kg.
You were in the ballpark anyway.
I use mine with a Treg hitch on the van, and drop it off if we are into short sharp lumpy stuff.
John
 
#986 ·
Thanks John. I didn't sleep properly in fear of being inSnukerated for my figures.
:sly:
I'm a bit bummed out actually... I hate it when I remember things wrong! Unfortunately due to getting bumped up in specification, our new van has ended up over the WDH threshold. I really didn't want to have to fit a weight distributing hitch...

Cheers,
Steve

(off mumbling annoyances in the corner)
 
#987 · (Edited)
The figure is really only a recommendation from Jeep, and there are plenty out there that are well over, not using a WDH. I'm sure your vehicle will do it easily.

I use one and our van only goes 2200kg, it did make a big difference with our previous Patrols, ball weight on our off-roader is 250kg or more, depending on what water is in what tanks.

I continued to use it with the Jeep, as I am a believer in weight transfer, and having tried it with and without, I feel that the WDH just stiffens up the package just that little bit.

Having said that, on the Plenty Hwy a few months ago we did snap the van Treg coupling shaft clean in half - likely contributed to by many, many thousands of km of corrugations and whoop de doos.

Your van may well tow brilliantly without, maybe a call though to your Jeep and van insurer to gauge their position should you ever have a claim.

When I checked with my insurers their response was essentially they would expect me to have complied with all manufacturers recommendations with respect to both. Pretty broad brush approach but.......

And you aren't the first to have had the van weight climb - and probably continue to do so once you (and the missus), keep adding to the "essentials" once out on the road or in the shrubbery.
John
 
#996 · (Edited)
John,
I knew you broke your Treg. It puzzled me because I have one and they seem immensely strong. However, on reading this, it occurred to me that a WDH would put considerably more bending moment onto the hitch than would have been there otherwise. Then I found this little tidbit in the ADR VSB1, Section 16.3,
"Caution
Load levelling bars should only be used with towbars designed for load levelling. Very high forces can be generated when the vehicle and trailer combination travels through dips in the roadway. These high forces may exceed the design limits of the towbar and or its mountings."
See Technical Requirements .

There is nothing on the Treg site about WDH's. Some of the Hitchmaster couplings are stated to be compatible with the HR WDH.
 
#989 ·
Don't quote me, but isn't it the centre mirror which is effectively optional, and the side view mandatory???

I've been naughty towing our 2.4 beam boat without side mirrors, so I'm not throwing stones. However despite our new van being camera equipped, my shopping list includes some decent side mirrors too. For practicality, but also a suspected compliance requirement. Now which of the standards shall we review first ;-)

Anyway, watch this spot for hacking the U-Connect to feed an alternative camera in.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#991 ·
If that is correct I'd like to know. I did do some research that said towing mirrors may be necessary and that drivers must have an unobstructed view of the road. To my mind the camera is more efficient at that than mirrors, but that said, I will probably invest in a set anyway in case the camera happens to fail.
 
#990 ·
John your comments are sage advice... I suppose I could suck it and see. Unfortunately I left my Jeep manual in the "secret" upper glove box slot and can't review the actual wording. My recollection was that it was a requirement, but hey, I got the numbers wrong so maybe I best skip relying on my recollections.

I guess I also need to see how the weights pan out as the liquid loads and other stuff goes in. I think fitting a WDH is going to be the right thing to do though.

Cheers,
Steve
 
#992 ·
here you are…..the original bulletin - issued early on when there was a lot of hoo ha about whether or not and would the Quadralift cope.

John
 

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#995 ·
At a guess, you're using a monitor with quad split images Allypally. What size monitor do you have for that and how does it go with detailing the multiple images? I was thinking that if I'm going to do this camera thing...

Cheers,
Steve
 
#999 ·
At a guess, you're using a monitor with quad split images Allypally. What size monitor do you have for that and how does it go with detailing the multiple images? I was thinking that if I'm going to do this camera thing...

Cheers,
Steve
I use a 7" screen, which connects to 2 side cams, and 2 rear cams. One of the rear's points downwards, which is ideal for reversing.
I can change the screen to 1 cam, 2 cams, or all 4 at once. One of the rear's has a mic, so if someone is behind the van guiding me into a tight spot, I can hear them without them yelling.
A better system would be 3 cams, with the rear one motorised, so it covers both tasks. The other benefit of a 3 cam setup is that you can get a woza lead between jeep and van, so you only have the 1 connection.
If buying a cam, for the rear, make sure the angle is no greater than 90deg.
Try Safety Dave for info. He is much cheaper than Polaris, and has brilliant aftersales.
Caravan Rear Vision Kits | Wholesale :: Caravan Reversing Camera Kits, Fire Extinguishers and First Aid Kits :: Safety Dave Australia
 
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#997 ·
My old man "ripped the @rse" off his 120 Series Prado when he went across a culvert having forgotten to drop the WDH off. He didn't take photos, but I saw the repair cost... it obviously did severe damage to the mounting points on the car.
 
#1,000 ·
Hi All,
It's my first post and have read this thread bar about 10 pages. My eyes hurt!v I've had my GC for about a month and a half and love it. Its a Laredo diesel with leather seats and a sunroof. I've also got a tow bar, Anderson plug and P3. I use it to tow a 16'6" horse float that weighs about 1700 empty. I had the dealership install the P3 and there are problems with it. The dealership has been great to deal with and I do believe that they can't find a problem. I've been told to take both float and car to an auto sparky and they'll cover the cost.

The problem is the one mentioned re lights. To start with the tail and running lights normally work , then they just turn off. The brake lights, stop lights and indicators still all work. A couple of times the running and tail lights went out when I released the foot brake. Other times they just went out as I was driving along.

Can anyone tell me definitely what is causing the problem? I also need the details of a good auto sparky in the south east of Melbourne. I'm happy to take the float and travel within reason so I can get it sorted once and for all!

Many Thanks,
HGM
 
#1,001 ·
Hi All,
It's my first post and have read this thread bar about 10 pages. My eyes hurt!v I've had my GC for about a month and a half and love it. Its a Laredo diesel with leather seats and a sunroof. I've also got a tow bar, Anderson plug and P3. I use it to tow a 16'6" horse float that weighs about 1700 empty. I had the dealership install the P3 and there are problems with it. The dealership has been great to deal with and I do believe that they can't find a problem. I've been told to take both float and car to an auto sparky and they'll cover the cost.

The problem is the one mentioned re lights. To start with the tail and running lights normally work , then they just turn off. The brake lights, stop lights and indicators still all work. A couple of times the running and tail lights went out when I released the foot brake. Other times they just went out as I was driving along.
Can anyone tell me definitely what is causing the problem? I also need the details of a good auto sparky in the south east of Melbourne. I'm happy to take the float and travel within reason so I can get it sorted once and for all!

Many Thanks,
HGM
I had the same issue with mine (caravan with running lights/tail lights). Fortunately it was an auto electrician sorting it out at my home. There is a fuse/circuit breaker in the engine bay that is specifically for tail lights on the tow vehicle, and although it is rated high enough (30A from memory) it keeps cutting out. My sparky sorted it out by patching in a relay.
 
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