I was concerned about this as without seeing one, it appeared that this would be the result of marrying the two. I need to look at the setup when fitted to a Hayman Reese towbar. Anyone have a pic of a WK2 with a HR WDH on a HR bar?
That said, you shouldn't have to shorten the HR adaptor as there's no end to the Mopar receiver opening. It could just push on through. You'd have to have a new hole drilled for the desired pin position. I'm not sure about the process creating fractures in the steel either... I'd need to see a White Paper before taking this as gospel! However the alternative is to drill the Mopar towbar to suit the position of the receiver adaptor's pin opening.
Unfortunately any of this comprises modification to the system, and thus technically voids the compliance. This risk is minuscule, but the repercussions potentially massive.
To bring my HR head closer into the Mopar socket I had another hole drilled into the HR shank 70mm closer to the head.
I don't believe the extra hole compromises the shank, it lessens the overhang and just neatens the setup.
No issues in over 40,000k towing our van with the modified setup.
John
I have the Mopar bar, and a Hayman Reece hitch. I will try to get a photo tomorrow for you.
Although there is no stop in the Mopar receiver, the HR hitch will not slide all the way into it, and at least for my setup, the hitch sits too far out. I am unable to line up the last hole. I have attempted to grind the edges, and so far still cannot get the hitch in as far as I would like. Maybe more grinding will fix, but will wait to see.
I inserted the Mopar receiver adaptor from the back side (front really) of the towbar. I was attempting to store it like that to avoid shinning myself on it. Whilst it went in no worries, it didn't reach the anti-rattle bolt I was hoping to use to hold it there. So I aborted mission.
I think you possibly need to grind further up the shank Ally... or there's maybe some slag in the way?
If you can wait a couple more days Steve, I'll post up a pic of my HR WDH on my HR towbar. Currently in Hawaii and will be home tomorrow night. I know it's an MY12, but shouldn't be any real difference.
Ally, they will go in. Mopar bar, HR head.
And it's the same as yours, Boxheadmr. I think if you did drill an extra hole like mine it would compromise the use in another hitch, unless you were able to use the new hole.
John
As promised, photos of the HR Hitch with a Mopar Bar.
From the images, you can see that the HR Hitch has 3 pre drilled bolt holes. When inserting the hitch into the Mopar receptor, the shaft gets stuck before lining up with the last hole, despite no obvious obstruction in the Mopar part.
I have ground off the corners of the shaft, but with very little success. I am reluctant to further grind away, as I really need to identify exactly where it is sticking, as I do not want to grind an area if not required, as that will lead to a sloppy fit, and rattles.
As promised, photos of the HR Hitch with a Mopar Bar.
From the images, you can see that the HR Hitch has 3 pre drilled bolt holes. When inserting the hitch into the Mopar receptor, the shaft gets stuck before lining up with the last hole, despite no obvious obstruction in the Mopar part.
I have ground off the corners of the shaft, but with very little success. I am reluctant to further grind away, as I really need to identify exactly where it is sticking, as I do not want to grind an area if not required, as that will lead to a sloppy fit, and rattles.
Ally,
From your pics, it seems to me that the restriction is caused by how the HR adaptor flares out to the rear. If this is so, you certainly shouldn't attempt to grind back the flare. This is a highly stressed part but if you chamfered the top and bottom of the entry hole of the receiver a bit you might get it in just far enough.
Ooops... just as a general comment... when talking about the HR receiver adaptor, I (we) should probably clarify if we're referring to the newer cast ones or the older solid bar version. Advice may differ depending.
For example, I wouldn't suggest that anyone should drill an additional hole in the cast type in Ally's pics.
Back to yours Ally. Do you have a vernier gauge to run up the adaptor to check the adjusted dimensions? Also, could it be that the grinding work is a little uneven, allowing the adaptor to go in up to a position where a few high points make contact simultaneously? Maybe lay a straight-edge or steel rule along the adaptor to check for inconsistencies in the grinding?
Bit off track but related to towing.
Spent a week up at Sawpit Creek (NSW near Perisher) last week. Was snowing as we came up the mountain. Got some concerned looks from people putting on snow chains as I continued on past them.
I'm just trying to wire up a couple of small LED lightbars as extra reversing lights, but I'm having trouble locating the wire form the reversing lights. My tow bar, non factory but is Mopar, has been wired as a 5 pin with a 7 pin flat plug, so nothing at the plug to use. (the dealer may have taken the easy way out, I'll be discussing that).
My question is does anybody know where the wire can be found, it seems to go across the roof from the tail gate. I would really prefer to link the extra reversing LED
lights in with cars rev lights with a switch on the dash. If I have to I'll wire them independently and turn them on when needed.
Sorry guys, but I'm resurrecting one of the epic MY14 sub-topics... the "splice in" trailer wiring loom. Specifically, the connection for activating electric trailer brakes. I've read back until I glazed over, searched until I'd found Bob's signature text a thousand times, and reconsidered all that I knew previously.
The Scene:
- The brake switch switched wire on WK2s does not provide an adequate voltage to trigger the input on the P3, hence it is often connected to a brake light wire in the boot.
- The brake light circuit for a MY14 is different to previous models due to the lighting circuit to all brake lights not being commoned, but individual supplies from an ECU.
- If connected to one tail-light on a MY14, manual operation of the brake controller will not activate all of the brake lights.
- Operation of all brake lights under manual control is required by legislation.
- Commoning all the brake light circuits is likely to produce a sh!tstorm of errors from the brake light ECU.
I've read that using a relay on the brake pedal switch appears to be common. This slightly increases the complexity of a critical circuit, however routine testing should reduce the risk of getting caught out by failure at an inopportune moment. I've spent a while attempting to come up with an alternative solution using power diodes at the brake light feeds, but it quickly gets way out of hand... and nothing says that the ECU isn't going to see a series diode as a failed lamp.
Any comments and/or further ideas? Otherwise I guess it is to be a relay on the brake pedal switch...
Sorry guys, but I'm resurrecting one of the epic MY14 sub-topics... the "splice in" trailer wiring loom. Specifically, the connection for activating electric trailer brakes. I've read back until I glazed over, searched until I'd found Bob's signature text a thousand times, and reconsidered all that I knew previously.
The Scene:
- The brake switch switched wire on WK2s does not provide an adequate voltage to trigger the input on the P3, hence it is often connected to a brake light wire in the boot.
- The brake light circuit for a MY14 is different to previous models due to the lighting circuit to all brake lights not being commoned, but individual supplies from an ECU.
- If connected to one tail-light on a MY14, manual operation of the brake controller will not activate all of the brake lights.
- Operation of all brake lights under manual control is required by legislation.
- Commoning all the brake light circuits is likely to produce a sh!tstorm of errors from the brake light ECU.
I've read that using a relay on the brake pedal switch appears to be common. This slightly increases the complexity of a critical circuit, however routine testing should reduce the risk of getting caught out by failure at an inopportune moment. I've spent a while attempting to come up with an alternative solution using power diodes at the brake light feeds, but it quickly gets way out of hand... and nothing says that the ECU isn't going to see a series diode as a failed lamp.
Any comments and/or further ideas? Otherwise I guess it is to be a relay on the brake pedal switch...
Excuse my ignorance, im not familiar with brake controller's, however could you just parallel the brake light switch at the pedal with the manual over ride?
That should in theory activate the brake lights as though you had applied the brakes.
Yeah, that's not a ridiculous second option actually. Better than arsing around with trying to link but isolate the lighting circuits, that's for sure! It probably has a slightly higher degree of complexity than a relay on the input side, but moves the failure point to a lower risk area.
I'm going to have a good chew on that idea. Thanks
Just had a think about it. Under some conditions it might actually throw a code. I read in another thread that sone of the left foot braking folk out there were causing a service throttle code when taking off from lights. If wired as I mentioned the ECU could interpret an over ride as someone applying brakes. That is if you were accelerating at the time you were over riding...
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