Just tucks down beside the battery - I think there is a bit less than 50mm with the battery pushed to one side in its bracket.
One of the reasons I chose the Piranha was that it would fit down there. Also would depend on the thickness of the mounting you used.
The 30a circuit breaker on the board for the brake controller has bare threads - so I used ~4mm ID plastic tubing to protect them, cut it a bit longer so the plastic tube contacts the plastic case of the battery and - no rattle fit. A piece of foam sheet or block would do the same thing. I just tried to get it a bit snug so it doesn't shake - but the ride is so good even on corrugations I've had no issues with anything on the vehicle rubbing or chafing.
Just as an aside - and relevant to mounting the P3 in the cubby as in ours - I used double sided sticky on the controller mount to the little rubber mat - doesn't move. I rarely touch the settings from one trip to the other - when we are in the shrubbery, the door is closed and our iPad sits in front displaying our mapping app.
I saw a dealer today, Alan, your guys.
I forgot to take my Tekonsha, so I used the highly accurate finger test.
It took 3 and a bit, basically the room above the media section in the MY14 cubby is approx 60mm.
My Prodigy (90185) in its bracket takes up 48mm (similar without it due to the manual brake lever).
I think I may get some closed cell foam, and cut it to suit the external dimensions of the cubby, then hollow it out to take the controller. Thus giving it a very snug fit, not allowing any movement or noise but also not requiring any drilling to take place to secure it so the manual brake feature can still be used.
The foam cutout seems a good suggestion. Remember, you need access to the bottom lever, and you need to ensure you are able to press the menu button without the device being pushed away.
This is the bracket I made for mounting the Tekonsha P3 to the dash. The bracket is a piece of Perspex, which I molded to the shape of the dash. I plan to use either double sided tape or Velcro to secure to the dash, so no holes.
HELP I had no problem fitting a Best Bar Kit to my stock standard 12 Laredo.
The wiring harness fitted into a grey socket provided behind rear LHS panel.
Now trying to fit the same kit to my new 14 limited. However, the grey socket seems to be missing ! Anyone been in here with any ideas ??
Thanks Barry
HELP I had no problem fitting a Best Bar Kit to my stock standard 12 Laredo.
The wiring harness fitted into a grey socket provided behind rear LHS panel.
Now trying to fit the same kit to my new 14 limited. However, the grey socket seems to be missing ! Anyone been in here with any ideas ??
Thanks Barry
I think Snuke has not yet done the install. he just placed the controller in the console to demonstrate the fit. You will most likely find the stripping is the same as the MY13's.
There are instructions for trim removal on the 2014's here...Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 - Interior trim removal
and thanks Snuke, for the photos of the P3 in the cubby of the 2014 - it was one of the things I thought we might lose if we went from our 2012 to a 2014.
Has anyone in the past or presently thinking about installing a chip? I have just over 3 tonne of caravan to move around and more power and torque should mean easier pulling? I have been looking at Racechip from Germany which is fairly inexpensive and I would wait till after the first 10,000 km before fitting it. They currently list for the 177kw CRD so will wait till they upgrade the MY14 before buying it.
GDay Peanut
go here and wade through the pages......http://www.jeepgarage.org/f157/anyone-tuned-a-crd-yet-42109.html
A few Aussies are running Bluespark and give it a very good wrap.
The ecodiesel CRD the Australian market is getting in the 2014 puts out 184Kw and 570nm - personally i'm more than happy with my 2012 CRD - but it only drags around 2200Kg.
Hi
I installed the Blue Spark standard pro tuning box in my13 GC CRD on the weekend and there is a marked improvement in performance. It is to early to say what affect it will have on fuel economy. I tow a 2500KG van and was looking for more torque and it certainly has delivered that.
Was at Albion Jeep the other day and in the back of the service area was a new MY14 and yes 2 nicely newly fitted recovery points as per the Yanks photos,
It was being prepared for delivery
I'll let others answer the questions on wieghts, but in respect of the recovery hooks Alex from jeep waitara has advised that the part number is 82212095. I don't think anyone has actually seen a set fitted up yet. Alex was going to order some himself but no news on this front for a while....
It varies from model to model, you are getting an Overland CRD so:
1: 2,327kg
2: 2,949kg
3: 6,449kg (I think that is correct GVM plus Max tow of 3,500kg)
4: I like pancakes
6: What happened to answering 5, well that is a difficult one with no definitive answer yet for MY14. Alex at Suttons has ordered some for a customer and will take pics when they attempt to fit them. Same customer has an auto electrician assessing removing the CD player. Next time you talk to him ask him about it.
Or maybe I will when I finally email him my signed contract tomorrow.
Not using high gears while towing is old school now. The transmission selects gearing based on load so don't need to worry about it. I have towed max NA weights with the HP70 and it avoids 8th except in down grades and likes to be in 6th and 7th.
I don't believe that manual is correct. autostick is an old term for the intrepid and forwards. As this is the German manufactured ZF-HP70 transmission I don't think that is a concern any more. I towed with this tranny and the HEMI and it was always exactly in the gear it needed to be in. I used to override my Mercedes 7-tronic in the hills but this new 8 speed is such a towing masterpiece. The best part was if you needed throttle quickly it can go directly from 8th to 3rd without selecting another gear (not applicable to trailering unless you like your dishes powdered) but I had it go from 6th to 3rd for me and I was impressed at the smoothness of it doing so.
I am looking to buy a tow bar. Northern motor group is advertising tow bar for $475 on eBay. Can some please confirm part number CH8220WKTB is correct for wk2?
eBay link http://bit.ly/1btUcpC
On checking, that part number is on the Mopar tongue sticking out of my 2012 WK2.
The bar is made in New Zealand by Best Bars, and that seems to me to be a very good price - considering fitted they run around $1000 or more by dealers.
Perhaps you could confirm though that the price includes the trailer loom - otherwise that will be an extra bite.
I've heard there isn't a loom available yet for the 2014 with the LED's but can't really see why it would be different.
Other members on this site have fitted their own towbars so it isn't rocket science. Some though have required a reflash to get the trailer wiring to work, some haven't - it seems to be a lucky dip. Maybe check that also with them.
Northern Motor Group from Melbourne were the suppliers on Ebay of the Best Bars manufactured Mopar recovery hook that fits the export WK2 we get in Australia with the pedestrian modified front end. I reckon they'd know what they were talking about.
John
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