some of the info is blatantly inspired through your posts, other things I have done and verified (good and bad).
The summary is here to share
Wk2 2014 Laredo with QL & ORII
2,200 klms to date
Improving Stereo, bang for buck (sound is subjective)
Goal: was going to add my existing speakers (Alpine Type R + Sub + Alpine PDX 4-100), sub and amp and use a LC-7i to sum the output
How far I got: The good news = all six channels are full range. The tweeters in fact use a resistor inline. Ended up with Kicker DS693 in the front doors, tweeter from the Alpine type R in the fronts, and Type R 6" in the back.
Result: High - tweeters (after I moved the resistor from the original onto the replacement) are much sharper and clearer
Mid - is nice and clear, no muddyness at all
Low (base) - so nice and clear that there is no need to use a sub.
Volume: even below 10 is clear, crisp and totally acceptable. Over 15 I cannot hear the engine noise or road noise at 100km/h
There are a couple posts that state:
remove passenger side plastic in engine bay
remove air filter
passenger side light, look for white and green wire
TRAKTOR's advice
There are two wires that are white and green
Wire one is white and an olive green. THIS IS NOT THE ONE YOU NEED.
Wire two is white and green (sort of darker). YOU WANT THIS ONE.
Works like a charm.
You can get power from the fuse box in the engine. There are lots of solid earth points beneath various screws.
Will post some pics later.
You also do not have to remove the plastic. You can unclip the rubber around the air filter.
Other tips
Air filter has three clips
The base of the housings is on three rubber grommets
Jiggle, wiggle and gently manipulate the rubber nipples and it will come off.
The plug easily disconnects from the passenger side light
Using a sharp knife, make a gently cut around the wire
Use a little bit of force with pliers to then slide back and expose wire
Wrap your trigger wire around the expose portion, solder and presto
I would never use them for anything that could cause reliability problems, but stripping back the sheidling I feel is more unreliable, as it is very easy to cut the wire or not insulate it correctly and cause bigger problems.
The best way is to cut, solder and shrink wrap it. I am not really into the 4x4 scene, so did not think of the offroading reliability requirement for the scotch locks.
The wire he is referring to, will allow you to tap into the high beam circuit to trigger spotlights/lightbars/ETC.
Because these cars are CANBus, it is much more difficult to add items like spotlights.
Enforcer is spot on, it is the wire activating the high beam AT the light itself (in the bonnet, no changes to the switches at the dash)
CANBUS works, no errors at all
I have two 18w Cree LED mini lights that I use when reversing the boat trailer in pitch black conditions.
If you have a towbar installed, the safest and easiest way is to . . . .
Pin 2 on the socket (the bit on the car) is the reverse signal. Tap this connection and the light will turn on ONLY when in reverse.
PS if you have a towbar installed and pin 2 is NOT reverse, get the dealer to remediate as recent ADR rules now clearly specify this as reverse (was reverse/accessory years ago)
Again, no crazy CANBus errors using this method
PSS getting the power from the reverse lights in the rear door would be a massive PITA and may trigger errors
Traktor I think you'll find that the Pin 2 Reverse connection is tapped off the rear door reverse lights... though probably upstream from the door cavity. There's no trailer wiring breakout as far as I have researched... it's all tapped off rear lighting circuits.
I'm happy to be corrected with evidence of the contrary.
Cheers,
Steve
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