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Vibration on Acceleration

28K views 38 replies 13 participants last post by  Sege 
#1 ·
Yet another tale of woe....well possibly. I get vibration/shudder when accelerating from around 93kmh upwards until just shy of 100kmh. There are no issues from standing start, or acclerating at any other speed above or below 93kmh. Its more noticable when under slight load (minor climb) but in all cases very noticable through the floor, the accelerator and steering column. Its nothing to do with tyres/balancing. I can accelerate hard from 80 thru to 100 no issue, its just planting my foot at or around 93kmh. Feels like an expensive fix? Any thoughts.
 
#2 ·
Being it is under warranty, I doubt it will cost you anything.
The problem will be getting it diagnosed, due to the speed and that most Jeep mechanics have NFI.
I would think it may be more like the transmission locking and unlocking the clutch on the torque converter. You do not notice this under moderate to hard throttle, but will on light loads. Unless it feels like a serious problem, I would just monitor it as the grief having to get a dealer to look at it. If it gets worse then do something about it.
 
#3 ·
Every "now and then" I get a decent vibration through the cabin when stationary at a set of lights or similar which is most likely the air conditioner compressor kicking in.

Just a shot in the dark, see if it still vibrates with the air conditioner completely off.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I have both, vibration pressing the accelerator at 92/94kmh (all good at other speeds) and the same occasional one when stationary. The one when stopped sounds like furniture being dragged across a hard floor and vibrates through the steering.:confused:
 
#14 · (Edited)
Thanks for the heads up on that. The only rattle I have sounds like resonance of a heat shield when I accelerate hard. The heat shield behind the turbo is indeed a little floppy but there is not much I can do about it. I checked the aircon pipes. They seem to be well clear but I found a couple of black metal tubes associated with the stability control touching the back of the firewall on the left side. I pulled them off a bit and put some split electrical conduit around them just in case.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Found the Noise!! The serpentine belt goes around this motor (guess it's the air con compressor). The outer pully rotates 100% of the time driven by the serpentine but the inner wheel/shaft (arrowed) is stationary. Every minute of so, the inner shaft (arrowed) engages (by a clutch?) and rotates for a moment then stops. I assume again that this must be the actual drive for the compressor providing chilled air to the climate control as required. Well, each time it kicks in.....I get the noise/vibraton..only for a split second....after a second the vibration stops even though the inner wheel/shaft continues to rotate....suggests it is a pressure issue as the sound is like trapped air in a high pressue water pipe but could possbly be an intermittent slip of the inner shaft as it engages and the sound resonating through the car is the chatter it would make if it wants to turn but is momentarily slipping?
I'm happy to have located it and that it's not related to QL or PS. Hoping its an easy fix. If its normal that the aircon vibrates under compression (and I mean VIBRATE - Very noticable and loud in the cabin and you can feel it though the steering wheel for a second as it kicks in) then it must be touching the firewall as AllyPally mentions. I'll keep you posted as it is in for it's 1 month freebie first thing tomorrow.
 

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#8 ·
Car was in for its free initial monthly check up and all is good with the car and its systems. (Although the replacement trim parts are "stuck in Melbourne" and could not be fitted).
The compressor made the noise right on que, pressure belch every time the compressor started with significant vibration through the cabin. (Got the noise on my iphone that I will post later taday). The service manager recalls this happening to another customer and advised it is a combination of the having the exact quantity of refridgerant, not too much, not too little, combined with possible touching pipes within the cabin amplifying the noise ....exactly as described on a Tourag forum. Sounds like we are on the right track. He needs the car for a day which I will arrange when my replacement trim parts come in. Keep you posted.
 
#9 ·
I guess the only problem I see with that service is that the mechanic (lets call him that, as I give him the benefit of doubt that he had some grain of formal training) diagnosed the problem, yet did nothing about it, except to waste another chunk of your time by having you to again return the car to them a second time.
 
#10 ·
Can't argue with that!! I'm going to roll the compressor fix with my trim panel replacement when they eventually arrive (Been waiting five weeks so far for the A pillar panel to arrive, so based on current dealer deliveries should be around October when I get the call to come in.):mad:
 
#12 ·
Here's the noise. Might prove useful as a diagnostic for people in the future.....I mean how the F%^& do you put this sound into words? Pissed up trombone player??? I don't know. This noise is VERY loud in the cabin and occurs as the compressor kicks in. The resonance is the trim vibrating(Had to zip the two files due to upload protocol but they are just simple .wav files. Let me know if you can hear them OK).
 

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#15 ·
Pissed up trombone player???
A perfect description :lol::lol::lol:
By the sound of it I'm wondering if there is an obnoxious smell associated with it. If so, it might be coming from one of the human occupants and not the car. :)
 
#18 ·
On a similar note, I was poking around under the dash and noticed the air ducting on the passenger side is quite loose and can rattle. I think it is designed to be loose but it seem to me it could resonate under certain driving conditions. I put some duct tape around the joint just in case.
 
#19 ·
Did the same when I fitted the aqua LED's to the footwells. The duct sort of just hangs and flops around the exhaust aperture in the footwell panels.
 
#23 ·
Hi Bob,
I suppose I have confused this thread a little. I have a vibration through the car when accelerating from about 92km/h upwards through to about 105km/h when under load (slight hill). The A/C in another problem that has been with me since day one and cannot get the local service centre interested in fixing it. What is very interesting, there's a few out there with the same A/C moan. interesting also to see who else might experience the same problem now Summer is here and the AC is under a lot more use.
Take your point on using the fuel economy as a method of determining load on the engine. I'll give that a try and report back. Theres a lot of guys in the US reporting "shudder" about the same speed under load, but they are all in V8's that makes me think transmission/torque converter??
 
#24 ·
I've got the same issue. A slight vibration from about 90km/h to 105km/h. It appears to be more noticable on a couple of roads and under continuous accelleration from either a standing start or low speed. Definately a drivetrain issue. Haven't bothered to ask the dealer about as yet.
 
#27 ·
I had something similar on my '13 and it turned out to be the fuel line rubbing :O
Thankily it got picked up at 10k service before something nasty happened...
 
#28 ·
I have had the vibration between 95km/h and 105km/h for about 3 weeks. It got substantially worse on the weekend just gone whilst driving up the mountains. Ended up with the whole vehicle violently vibrating and shaking above 50km/h. After a tow and overall massive inconvenience the verdict from the dealer is a dodgy tailshaft. Now the wait for approval from Chrysler to repair, then the wait for parts to arrive.

Does anyone find it unusual for a car built in the last few years to have this happen? I expect there to be a few issues with any new vehicle, especially with the level of electronics involved, what I don't expect is mechanical failure so early in the life of the vehicle. 39000km is not a lot of life in my mind and I am very concerned about keeping this vehicle post the expiration of the warranty.

This was my first Jeep and has been a pretty big letdown just quietly. The car is a great design and has great features, but is poorly built (it's the only off-roader I have owned that never makes it to off-road tracks). Jeep need to sort their $hit out as people will only buy another Jeep if they know it will be reliable. What makes things worse for me is the overall poor service from Jeep. Twice I have been stuck on public transport from the broken down vehicle because I am only 90km/h from home (2.5 hours on weekend public transport), then weeks later I have to make my way to a dealer that was convenient for them to tow it to but is 70km from where I live and work. Not my idea of fun.

As for the "Don't hold back" campaign, I'd suggest you "do hold back", otherwise the vehicle will fall apart around you.

Anyone interested in buying a Black 2012 Overland CRD with 39000km and a new tailshaft?
 
#30 ·
it's the only off-roader I have owned that never makes it to off-road tracks
The JGC is not an off-roader. It's an SUV in every respect and not a particularly expensive one at that. Just look at the suspension. There is no strengthening for off-roading at all. It just happens to have a fantastic traction control system which actually traditional off-roaders don't have. So don't expect to much of it.

Having said that, a failed CV joint so early is unforgivable. I've never heard of this happening. CV joints usually last forever but when they do wear out they are simply noisy. Your one is not just worn out, it was faulty from the beginning. It's a manufacturing fault. Your car is not performing as intended and may even be dangerous. FCA have to fix it at their cost and compensate you for the loss of a vehicle. That's the law but getting them to comply is another matter. Keep hounding the bastards. Good luck.
 
#31 ·
Thanks Bob though I agree with you 4 years out of warranty I would be whistling despite what the Bureaucrats say and I would be stuffed around so much speaking from experience waiting 3 months off the road for a new sump when it was in warranty!!!!!
 
#32 ·
Which then, I believe, led to a Big End failure at 40k 12 mths outr of warranty and nothing from Jeep as they wouldn't inspect at a mechanic 5 mins down road as vehicle was undrivable.........

Jeep never again..... Pity because when they work they are fantastic!
 
#33 · (Edited)
You must have lucked out with a Friday car:bash:
 
#35 ·
Isnt the front Prop-Shaft about $700 from the US? Easy swap I read. The rear prop shaft is about ~$300 if I remember. I'm keeping a tab on the prices, since I believe mine is going out in the near future.

You could also drive without it temporarily.

To hell with Stealership prices.
 
#38 ·
When I enquired, I emailed "sales@factorychryslerparts.com"

PS: If you have 4Low, then you have the 2speed.

For my car, it was the below FOR REAR DRIVE SHAFT:
##########################################

No, your vehicle takes 52853641AD. It is $318.92, freight is $145.00. We have it in stock and it can be ordered from our website.

Thanks
Chris
937-98-JEEPS



Hi,

Can you please tell me if this is the correct part# for the tail shaft(Drive shaft between transmission – rear diff) for my car?

VIN.....

##########################################
 
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