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Old 05-09-2012, 04:54 PM
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Front crankshaft seal 4.7L

The front crankshaft seal, as it sits on the front of the timing cover, is leaking. Not too horribly but I'd like to get it replaced. I purchased the seal and took a long look with a sigh laying under the front end.

I have read some forums that talk about being able to do it without removing the radiator. I don't see how I can get the puller in there without hitting the metal cooler (I am lost as to what it is called) that sits between the radiator fan and the pulley/balancer.

Has anyone done this? Normally I am game for any repair but if I am pulling the radiator, I don't want to have to piss with tranny fluid or radiator fluid. Plus it has to get me to work daily.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:52 PM
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Re: Front crankshaft seal 4.7L

all you need is to remove the fan, fan shroud and the expansion tank. Make sure you get yourself a three jaw type puller Make sure you put the jaws around the pulley hub not the outer ring. Also you will need a balancer installer. This will be the only proper way to install it back. Heat it up a little and it will slide right back on
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:05 PM
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Re: Front crankshaft seal 4.7L

Here are some pages from the manual. Can only attach 3 pages, but the damper bolt torque is 175 Nm ( 130 ft. lbs)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf crankshaft seal1.pdf (93.3 KB, 29 views)
File Type: pdf crankshaft seal2.pdf (101.2 KB, 24 views)
File Type: pdf vibration damper.pdf (99.0 KB, 23 views)
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:18 PM
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Re: Front crankshaft seal 4.7L

When I installed the new timing set and seal on my engine- I already had the heads and half the engine apart. However, the above post indicates correctly..but I found a way around the fan issue. O'Reilly auto and some other parts retailers rent/sell the proper puller tool for our 4.7 engine. I escaped by shortening the rod which goes in the crankshaft bore by 1 inch or so. This allows the pulley remover tool to do its job fully without having to remove the cooling parts. I installed the pulley in a 20 degree garage after warming the pulley and used the crank bolt with assembly lube to draw it on smoothly. I don't advocate half-assing anything..I chose this route at the end of a month long repair at which point I just couldn't wait any longer to fire it.
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