I have a 2001 WJ. This morning I started it up drove to the top of my driveway and shut it off. I loaded it up with my fishing gear, got back in and when I tried to start it the dash lights flashed and I started getting a rapid clicking from my under dash fuse box. It also clicks when I turn the knob for the headlights or hit the brake petal. I tried a neutral start with no luck. Thought it might be the battery which is an Interstate and less than a year old and tried to jump it with my wife's van. Still no luck. Battery voltage is 12.4. I have also heard a click from in the engine compartment but cannot tell from where. It also continues to make the clicking after I have removed the key from the ignition. Any ideas? My mechanic would look at it for me but I can't get it there.
Well at first it sounds like a starter solenoid, but that wouldn't click with the headlights/brake pedal. Still sounds like some sort of relay mabye but Im not sure what would cause those symptoms.
The brake isn't doing it anymore. The guages went crazy once then I tried again and they were fine. I tried the hazards (don't ask me why) and it made a groaning sound and then they started working. The engine actually cranked one time and did not turn over and then the clicking sound started again in the fuse box. It persisted for 10 sec after I had removed the key. I am going to try taking the battery and having it tested but I really don't think that is the problem. I am also reading 12.3v to all of the ground terminals I can find. I just put 700 dollars into this thing so that it could work for two weeks. Replaced the brakes, rotors, ignition coil, spark plugs and then it had a bad fuel injector. I replaced that and now this. I feel like rolling it off a cliff. lol
Have the battery tested under load, that could be the problem if things go crazy like that, but the voltage seems good. Double check the electrical connections on the ignition components just to make sure something didn't come loose. Good luck!
It sounds like a circuit integrity issue, Check your grounds, check your battery feed at your starter and your grounds on the vehicle. overal wire condition.
Had the battery tested. It needed to be charged but when I put it back in the problem persisted. I have found that when I turn the key forward the radio, dash, power windows, locks, wipers all work fine but when I turn the headlights on everything goes dead. I do have a broken rear tailight, do you think that water could have gotten in there and could be causing this problem? I can't understand why that could be the problem if the lights are not turned on. I have checked the battery leads and wires, I checked all the grounds that I could find and get normal voltage between them and the positive battery lead. Also the power locks work but only from within the vehicle. If I try to use the keyring to lock and engage the security system, there is a grinding sound coming from the fuse box under the dash. I tried to check the leads coming into the fusebox but they are just wiring harnesses and they all seem fine. I guess I may have to pay to have it towed to my mechanic but I got laid off a couple of months ago after nine years with the same company and money is kind of tight. Any other ideas?
No, that further sounds like a circuit integrity issue, check ALL of your large gauge wiring to and from the battery, BOTH ends. I know you said you did, but this absolutely sounds like your issue... even take them all off and clean them at both ends. I guess it may be a starter solenoid, a failing hold in winding, but with everything dying when you turn the key on it really sounds like a bad connection.
I cannot remember if there is space off the top of my head, I know its really tight, but if you can get a jump box lead directly on the starter (+) to the post the large battery cable bolts to, then the ground to the engine then try to start it.
I just wanted to thank you for your help. I jumped the starter like you said and it started right up. I removed some more of the wire from the sheathing and was able to buy a clamp style connector to reconnect it to the battery post. I'll probably end up having to buy a new harness eventually, as the wire was pretty corroded inside, but it is running fine for now. I really appreciate your help. thanks again.
I think you guys are right. The wire didn't look too bad at the connection points but I stripped back some of the sheathing and it is pretty corroded inside. I am going to check out jumping the starter with my jumper cables but it's suppposed to rain here for a few days so it might be a few days til I know for sure. I'll keep you posted but I think that you might have found the problem for me. Thanks.
Had the same clicking noise even after taking the key out. Mine turned out to be the battery, although it was considerably older than yours. Is it possible that even a newer battery can somehow be faulty and causing the problem...?
I haven't had a chance to deal with it yet and to be honest, I am having a hard time finding the harness online. Might have to bite the bullet and go to the dealer. It's definitely not the battery, I had it tested and recharged, and it is a less than two year old Interstate MegaTron II battery. I have tested the battery and am getting 12.6 across the terminals after having it charged. i haven't manually jumped out the starter and I am hoping the battery cable is the problem. It does seem corroded inside. the wire itself is whitish and kind of chalky.
I haven't had a chance to deal with it yet and to be honest, I am having a hard time finding the harness online. Might have to bite the bullet and go to the dealer. It's definitely not the battery, I had it tested and recharged, and it is a less than two year old Interstate MegaTron II battery. I have tested the battery and am getting 12.6 across the terminals after having it charged. i haven't manually jumped out the starter and I am hoping the battery cable is the problem. It does seem corroded inside. the wire itself is whitish and kind of chalky.
If you have a bad cell, you can measure 12V when there's no load. Then when you put a load on the battery, it drops. This is what happened to my wife's Cavalier.
When you say "tested" what type of testing? Did you take it to an auto parts store and have them test it? Or did you simply measure the voltage? When they test it, they will test it under a load. But if you just checked the voltage, that's not really testing.
Have you tried jumping the battery w/ another car? If you can jump the car, it's not the harness and most likely the battery.
You can also take a DMM and measure the resistance from the battery terminal (w/ wires connected) to either the starter solinoid/body (depending on which wire has the corrosion). This will tell you if you're getting a solid connection with the wire.
You can also take a DMM and measure the resistance from the battery terminal (w/ wires connected) to either the starter solinoid/body (depending on which wire has the corrosion). This will tell you if you're getting a solid connection with the wire.[/QUOTE said:
Took it to AutoZone and they tested the battery. I have not tested the resistance on the harness itself, but that's a good idea. As far as jumping it, that was the first thing I tried and it was a no go.
Glad you fixed it.
I had this problem on my Crown Vic. I sprayed my terminals and wires with a light coat of WD-40 to keep water away. Its stayed clean now for over a year and no battery problems.
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