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Old 12-19-2014, 10:13 PM
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Rear Shock Bolt Question

The top bushing on my front driver's side shock has worn out to the point I can move the top of the shock back and forth by hand. No place local sells replacement bushings and the Jeep has 166k miles on the original shock. I decided it was time to replace the shocks even though they appear to ride fine.

I've read all about the clunking and the short shoulder on the stock bolts. Specifically, I bought the hardware in this thread (M12x70mm bolt):
WJ: Rear shock rattle eliminated, how I did it.

When I got home I expected the bolt to be a tight fit, almost a press fit. But after I put the bolt into the shock (which states the bushing is a M12 ID) there is a slight gap. I took a quick video so you can see the little bit of play.
http://s184.photobucket.com/user/Pwr...lwn3x.mp4.html

My question is will this play result in the dreaded clunking? Or is that a pretty standard amount of play for those that have changed the bolt?

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Old 12-20-2014, 06:09 AM
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Re: Rear Shock Bolt Question

I did not change the bolts on my WJ, but the play you are showing in the vid seems to be normal. This should not cause any clunking.
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:20 PM
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Re: Rear Shock Bolt Question

I got the shocks changed out today. It only took 1 hour to change both front shocks. The impact made it a breeze to remove the top bolt and snap both the bottom ones in half (because the nuts were corroded on).

Then I moved onto the rear driver's shock. The top bolt came out without issues. Put the impact on it and out it came. Then it was time for the bottom bolt and that's where the trouble started. Everything on the bottom was covered in road crap and rust. I put the impact on the bolt because I dust shield kept me from getting it on the nut. Hit it with the bolt with the impact a bunch and it didn't budge. So I went to the toolbox and pulled out a regular socket (only one I had was a 12 point socket) and breaker bar. I tried turning the nut and it was stuck good. I broke out the torch and applied heat....no dice. Then I got a 4' cheater bar and tried but that was only starting to round the nut. Off to the store to pick up a non-deepwell 6-point impact socket and go at it until something gave. With a mighty pull on the cheater bar, something gave a snap and upon investigation it wasn't any of my tools. Then I was able to remove the nut to find out that the nut was welded to the mount.


Finally a short 2.5 hours after I started that shock (1/2 hour getting a 6-point socket), I got the new one in place. With my new found knowledge that the nut is welded, it took my a measly 20 minutes to change out the passenger rear shock. So about 1.5 hours for 3 shocks and 2 hours for 1 shock.

Another thing that surprised me was the bolts on the rear shocks. The upper bolt was already a M12x70mm that did NOT neck down at all. It looked just like the ones I picked up from the store, except the tip had a small unthreaded part so you could get it started. Instead of using my bolts, I kept these. The bottom bolts were as described, they necked down shortly after the head and I replaced them with new bolts. Hopefully no more clunking.
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