Hello recently lost all brake fluid from master cylinder. Looked under found rusty brake line where fluid was leaking when brake was applied. Other two brake lines look solid, is this brake line sold pre-bent? If so from where? How hard is install? Are special tools required? Do the brake lines need to be bled after replacement? If so how? Attached are pictures...any comments, tips would be helpful. Line runs up driver side to master cylinder. Is this considered easy backyard job or mechanic? Thank you very much.
kgingerich
Rusty WJ Brake Line
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Hello recently lost all brake fluid from master cylinder. Looked under found rusty brake line where fluid was leaking when brake was applied. Other two brake lines look solid, is this brake line sold pre-bent? If so from where? How hard is install? Are special tools required? Do the brake lines need to be bled after replacement? If so how? Attached are pictures...any comments, tips would be helpful. Line runs up driver side to master cylinder. Is this considered easy backyard job or mechanic? Thank you very much.
Attachments
Looking for best bang for buck without bending and fabricating. Heard the braided stuff was good, just looking for install how to/brake bleed how to for this job. Any tips appreciated. Thanks
You will have to bleed them. I would suggest replacing all the fliud, as if water has gotten into the leak, you'll find that eventually all the rubbers etc within the braking system will deteriorate.
You should have a shop near you that can make up the pipework you need. Just take in the old one and they'll fab it up for you.
You should have a shop near you that can make up the pipework you need. Just take in the old one and they'll fab it up for you.
check with the dealer for the brakeline, wasnt that expensive on my xj when i did mine, comes prebent although that can work against you while trying to get it into place. as far as bleeding the brakes google or youtube it im sure youll find a video of it id say on a scale of 1 to 10 its about a 2.5 as far as difficulty goes, i did mine 2 weeks after gall bladder surgery. something i found helpful im getting the fittings loose on the old line was to just cut the tubeing at the fitting and put a socket over the nut, as unless you have line wrenches an open end wrench will just round off the nut good luck
try this vid for starters i couldnt watch it as my connection is really slow
http://youtu.be/eZpe5TBMjCQ
try this vid for starters i couldnt watch it as my connection is really slow
http://youtu.be/eZpe5TBMjCQ
All good points friend. Went to local MOPAR dealer and bought pre bent tube with fittings for 17.02 out the door. Install was simple, some slight bending due to fishing it up under the hood bay. Yes had to cut old tube at master cylinder and popped it off with a deep well socket. The rear connection was a bear where the tube connects with the rubber hose. I gripped the rubber side with a 16mm and put a 9 mm socket on the tube side and she eventually freed up. Install is complete at this time, and I will be performing the bleed today. Seems straight forward, I am only worried that I will need the HCU bleed procedure mentioned, because I am unsure if air has been sucked into the ABS system..The master cylinder was pumped dry due to brake line leak. So ill try the manual bleed today, and if still spongy ill be limping the WJ out to the shop for pro bleed. Thanks everyone.
That line always goes on the WJ especially at the retaining clips and rear fitting. That's where all the road grime lays and never gets washed off. The other lines are fuel lines and appear to be stainless or something. You would think they could have spent a few extra bucks and made the brake line out of the same stuff. I'm replacing that one right now and am gonna do it in 2 pieces bending it myself using steel black coated line available in most auto parts stores. Works pretty good from past experience as long as you don't scratch it all up installing it. That's just too much line to do in one piece and I've found you end up having to re bend most pre bent lines to make them fit anyway.
Well the bleed valve on the rear passenger caliper was rusted and stuck. After some PB blaster and patience I finally sheared off the valve (while in closed position) I cannot stand rusted components! At this point I did bleed the rear driver side which had the most air from the new tube install. I picked up a reman caliper for 47$ after core deposit. Brakes are spongy but seem effective enough to limp 19 mi to my shop. I will be paying shop to install caliper, do a pro bleed, and reset 'BRAKE' light. Yes i could probably handle this myself, but im done laying under the jeep everyday after work until its dark. I I want my truck back up and running. Shop quoted me 40$ if I provide caliper/brake fluid. Sounds good to me!
yep, started really snowing yesterday and I was a little unhappy because we had to take the 06 accord to work in the snow and as we all know trucking through snow in 4x4 full time is always a pleasurable experience. Well the truck should be fixed today and ill be able to experience the upcoming blizzard in my beloved Mopar tank. Nice feeling that the brakes will be bled perfectly by a respected shop and I dont have to lay under her in the snowy driveway until dark.
WJ is buttoned up and braking better than ever. Couple things to keep in mind..
1. This brake line will rust out on you in the rust belt region, check it and replace it. Its avail at dealer for 17$ easy install.
2. When bleeding the lines, it is essential you apply PB blaster to the bleed valves and let it work for an hr or you will break the valve screw and need a caliper. (use small socket or wrench, large wrench will also contribute to breaking the valve.)
3. Be careful not to damage the small coupler where the hard line connects to the rear rubber hose, PB blaster essential here as well.
4. If you have doubts about removing air in the lines; do the hard line install which is simple, buy a qt of premium dot 3 fluid and have your shop bleed them for 25$. 'Brake' Light will extinguish itself after 3 ignition starts if all air has been purged from system (mine did)
Formal thank you to Frango100 for PM messages which were helpful.
1. This brake line will rust out on you in the rust belt region, check it and replace it. Its avail at dealer for 17$ easy install.
2. When bleeding the lines, it is essential you apply PB blaster to the bleed valves and let it work for an hr or you will break the valve screw and need a caliper. (use small socket or wrench, large wrench will also contribute to breaking the valve.)
3. Be careful not to damage the small coupler where the hard line connects to the rear rubber hose, PB blaster essential here as well.
4. If you have doubts about removing air in the lines; do the hard line install which is simple, buy a qt of premium dot 3 fluid and have your shop bleed them for 25$. 'Brake' Light will extinguish itself after 3 ignition starts if all air has been purged from system (mine did)
Formal thank you to Frango100 for PM messages which were helpful.
I just changed the brake hose and the brake from front driver side seem to ok till I took it for a longer drive the fitting that connects to that pad that has all the brake lines is leaking ):
I bought a power bleeder at Harbor Freight. Get a helper to keep topping off the master cylinder and just pump away until you get solid flow of clean new fluid. Do all four wheels and you are good to go. Just thought I would add this for anyone that comes along and reads this.
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