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  #13  
Old 02-20-2013, 10:23 AM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

LOOKING AT #3...all 4 power windows inoperative. ALSO, MY OVERHEAD INDICATOR (mpg, miles left til empty) AND GAUGES DON'T WORK... WORK... AND THEN STOP AGAIN...

Cause:*The BCM (body control module) is electrically "locked up".

I RE-CONNECTED BATTERY AND IT WAS PERFECT FOR @ A WEEK, THEN ACTED UP AGAIN... I RE-CONNECTED BATTERY AND TWO DAYS LATER IT ACTED UP AGAIN... LOOKING FOR ANY SUGGESTIONS!

Notes:*Diagnosis with a scan tool should be the first step in a case such as this. A module scan with a DRBIII scan tool would have indicated that all modules were functional except the BCM. If disconnecting the battery does not resolve the issue, further diagnosis will be necessary. ANY IDEAS FOR SOURCE OR SUGGESTIONS TO FIX???
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  #14  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:24 PM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

Great thread, wish i found it when i was having the sticking caliper issue. would've saved a lot of guesswork.
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2013, 10:35 AM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

Great thread.

I'm from Portugal, so we have to be imaginative about fixes and repairs, because our Chrysler-Jeep dealers are very very very expensive!!!

About #14, the power locks, I have an alternative solution, without having to buy a latch/actuator.

I saw this great thread from another site (about a ZJ),
Door Lock Actuator Mod (overhaul) - Jeep Cherokee Forum

I decided to try it in my WJ's rear doors, my experience with doors was none, and it worked just fine!
The wires to connect are pink and orange (from the wire that go to original power locks) to green and blue (usual colors from ebay's 4$ universal power door actuators I used).
Differently from that user, i didn't had to drill any holes, just used a existing hole just below the original latch, where I atached the ebay actuator against the metal plate provided from the kit, in parallel direction of the lock iron link - it's the lower link, a little smaller.
I also installed the actuator in the inverse direction from the guy I picked the idea from.

I hope this can help some users, for me it saved many, many euros (kind of dollars, but usually not green) .

See you,
Nelson
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  #16  
Old 10-20-2013, 03:52 PM
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So i have problem 1 minus the smell and wet floor but it overheats while idling or in traffic. Already replaced fan relay and ive never heard or seen the fan come on. Im lost, would the fan not working cause coolant loss every couple weeks?
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:59 PM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

No signs of coolant leak anywhere on the engine or radiator? The radiator is well known to form a crack and start leaking at one of the plastic tanks, especially close to the mounting flange with the aluminum core.
Take care to not overheat this engine, because it can warp the head(s) and cause valve seats to drop.
So your jeep still has the electrical cooling fan. You could test the fan by connecting it directly to the battery.
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:09 PM
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Nope no leaks... the radiator, hoses, water pump, timing cover, and fan relay were all replaced last winter... in going to test the fan sometime this week but was wondering if the fan not coming on would cause the need to add every couple weeks. When sitting it gets around 250 then goes normal after you start moving. After I fill it, its perfectly fine
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:47 PM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

Just this evening my dash started bell dinging an "breaks" in large letters was on the dash screen.......then it was gone.....what the heck was that all about????
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:05 PM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonnyboy View Post
Just this evening my dash started bell dinging an "breaks" in large letters was on the dash screen.......then it was gone.....what the heck was that all about????
Means the Jeep sensed that you were about to run into the back of another car and warned you.
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  #21  
Old 09-29-2014, 07:36 PM
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Re: 32 Problems and Suggested fix

"22. Problem:*Noise while turning sharply in parking lot. Rubbing noise/sensation. WJ

Cause:*Lack of limited slip additive in differential(s)

Fix:*Remove and clean differential cover. Reinstall/reseal cover. Add full bottle (4 oz) of limited slip additive. Fill differential with 75W-140 synthetic gear oil. Test drive vehicle to re-check for noise.

Notes:*-"

1.) This only applies to Quadradrive Jeep WJ's which come with Varilok limited slip differentials in the Rear D-44a and the Front D-30. Also a few Wj's might be equipped with a TracLok rear differential only. The Rear D-44a with Varilok requires 4 oz of the Jeep Mopar brand limited slip additive, the front D-30 requires 2.5 oz. This additive comes in 4 oz bottles on eBay or at the dealer.
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