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Another New noise...

4K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Frango100 
#1 ·
Hello all, I've got an issue but I don't know if it's normal or not.... I have an 04 WJ limited that I bought this past february....and so far it's been a domino effect of sensor failure for me... most recently it was the oil pressure sensor... So my question today is when I went to the store and returned home everything seemed fine, engine seemed like it was running perfect, turned the key to shut it down and there was like a grind and vibration that seemed like it came from underneath right in between the driver side door and tire... started the truck up again and turned it off and then it was gone... I had noticed this once or twice before in the last 2 weeks or so but I thought I was just looking for something to be wrong since all the sensor trouble... but now I know it's there and have no idea what it is....any info or experience with this would be great!!!..... Thanks alot!!!:D
 
#3 ·
nope, only when I shut it off.....there was one time when I thought maybe I heard it while I was driving..... transfer case maybe??? It only does it sometimes....so I can't trace exact location.... this Jeep is seriously starting to aggravate me....
 
#4 ·
That sounds like it could be just about anything. I think I would start by lifting the hood and while standing there looking into the engine compartment, I'd have someone else turn the key off. Maybe if you heard it then, you could start pin pointing the area where the sound is coming from. What you described is not much to go on, but there are lots of others willing to help if you can better describe the sound and area.
 
#5 ·
I know it's pretty general, but like I said it doesnt do it very often and the noise is definitely coming from underneath.... a better description I guess would be a motor grinding to a stop... I went out and started it and shut it off about 5 or 6 times a few minutes ago... put it in gear, then in park, even reverse... let it sit in gear for a minute or two.... still couldnt get it to do it again.... I just dont want to be worried that something major isnt gonna fail on me
 
#6 ·
Intermittant problems are the pits! Underneath? You have the V8, so listen to the exhaust piping on the drivers side. Is it heat related? After driving at highway speeds or slow town driving? Has the convertor gone into "lockup" during your drive? What drive system does your ride have, Quada Drive, Quadra Trac, Select Trac? I think there were something like 10 different types of drive systems available, but maybe not that many in 2004 per your WJ. Just keep your eyes and ears tuned in. Sooner or later you will pick up on something that someone here has experienced before.
 
#8 ·
Just for shizz...have you crawled under there while it's running to look for any exhaust leaks? There really isn't much between the driver's door any tire that I could think of that would make a stupid noise when you shut the Jeep off. If you think of it, next time you go to get out and shut it off, see if you can get a recording on your phone or something you can post up here.
 
#9 ·
Lock up is what some might call overdrive. I might be wrong with what I call it, but it's when the convertor shifts into what appears to be a higher gear. If your does that, there might be a problem with it staying in lock up and not droping back out. Just guessing as to something going on there as the convertor is part of the drive train and it turns until you turn off the key. If it is locked up, it might give off a different noise. The last response ws good in that it is suggested you have a look and maybe even listen from the under side. Like he said, it's hard to even suggest something there as there is just not much right there other than the eshaust piping from the left bank of your V8.
 
#10 · (Edited)
The torque converter lock-up function is just a mechanical clutch which in fact makes the input and output of the torque converter fixed. In this way you won't get any losses, which is a normal part of any fluid coupling. If this one won't release, its like a car with mechanical clutch and you don't put your foot on the clutch pedal, you will kill the engine when stopping. Should not be the problem here.Torque converter lock-up and overdrive are two different things. Overdrive is nothing more then a gear ratio inside the tranny, where you get more speed out of the tranny then you put in. All the other gear ratios are named underdrive, where you get less speed out of the tranny then you put in. Overdrive is there to safe fuel and have less noise from the engine. The 5-45 RFE for example has 3 forward underdrive ratios (1, 2 and 3) and 2 overdrive ratios (4 and 5) I didn't count the second prime, which is used for highway passing and is a little different then the normal 2nd gear ratio, but also an underdrive.
 
#11 ·
thanks for the info guys...I'll have a look and listen tomorrow morning.... could it have anything to do with the button to turn the O/D on and off?? there were a few times I would accidentally hit that button at highway speeds and also at normal drive around town speeds... hopefully its just an exhaust issue and not a tranny issue.... thanks again and if I find a location I'll be here to ask what it is...
 
#12 ·
When you hit the overdrive button, you send a signal to the PCM and just switches off the overdrive gears of the tranny, so the tranny goes to 3rd gear maximum, depending on the speed. If you are driving on the highway and you hit the button, the tranny returns to 3rd gear and the engine consequently revs up. But hitting the button when standing still, doesn´t do anything then an electrical input to the PCM and should not cause any noise.
 
#13 ·
You need to keep your eyes and ears open to your ride. We have aleready gotten off on things that many not have anything to do with your new noise. I'm sorry if I got you or anyone else thinking about things that most likely are not related at all to your noise. It's just that we don't have much soild to go on just yet. Keep us informed and sooner or later your description will hit home with somone who will be able to help ya.
 
#14 ·
ok, I started it this afternoon(cold start).... and it did the noise....coming from drivers side fender area.... went to the store....shut it off.....came back about 2 minutes later opened the door got in and it made the noise without the truck being on at all...now, from where I heard it....I know the brake booster and those 2 solid vacuum lines going into that small thing(I dont know what its called) are in that area.... could it be a vacuum issue?? I had one before and had all that pulled apart and am wondering now if I put it all back together correctly... is that little green bleeder thing supposed to be on the top or bottom of the vacuum thing(still dont know the name of it).... I found it very weird that it made the noise when the truck was off for about 2 minutes..... tried to get it to do it again with no luck.... but I'm slowly pinpointing something here....any ideas???
 
#15 ·
I would think that if you had a vacuum leak or other probelm with the vacuum system, you'd get an emmisions error or check engine soon light which would be because of the vacuum problem. Even a small leak will set an error code. Idle would change and maybe even rough running at speed. A buddy or someone else with you could be a help if they would turn off the key with you under the hood.
 
#16 ·
Any chance you could drape a microphone into the engine compartment near the source of sound and record it on some device (phone, tape recorder or voice recorder)? Maybe recording the sound would help you (or us) pinpoint it.
 
#17 ·
Maybe any picture to show the "I don't know how its called"?
The only thing i remember with 2 solid vacuum lines to it is the Purge solenoid, mounted on the LH fender and which is pulsed by the PCM (only when engine is warm) to create the vacuum for the EVAP canister. Don't recall any green bleeder and i'm miles away from my car, so can't have a look.
 
#21 ·
Did you leave any accessory in on which could have drained the battery? Did you check the battery connectors for being clean and properly fastened? Is the battery completely dead, or do you still have lights on the instrument panel and it will simply not start?
 
#22 ·
yes, there are lights, and the starter is clickin, I didnt leave anything on that could've drained it....but it drained nonetheless... terminals are clean and tight... it sometimes happens after a cold night.... and it is the battery specifically for my vehicle... I dont get it....I throw it on the charger for 20 minutes and it fires but I have to put pressure on the throttle until it charges itself up a little.... bad ground somewhere maybe?
 
#23 ·
It can be draining the battery charge, or the charging system is not working properly. Maybe a good start to check the battery voltage before starting and check again after starting, or take it to some place where they can check the charging system. If thats ok, then something is draining the charge, maybe a relay which doesn´t relax or so. But then you have to measure the current at one of the battery terminals with everything off and if there is a significant current (there is in fact always a low current for the memory functions of several components), then you have to remove the fuses one by one to see if the current will go down, to determine which component is causing it.
 
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