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  #13  
Old 02-17-2015, 12:22 PM
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Re: coolant leak

Frank,

You got me! Yes, it's the steering cooler which is just in front of the condenser. The evaporator is inside the HVAC ducting inside.

Seperating the fan assembly from the radiator has not been done yet and like you mentioned the bottom two bolts appear to be very tough to get at. Not sure how to or where to break the lines loose so I could pull the two pieces out together. Getting that shrould and fan assembly out would sure help with the water pump exchange. I do have some of the MoPar steering fluid MS fluid. I had read where it is very important to use the correct fluid and so I did buy a bottle or QT of that last year.

Both the upper and lower radiator hoses look and feel really good. I think I am going to reuse them both as OEM hoses do seem to last longer than after market rubber. If they would fail sometime in the near future, I think they are easy to replace, but then again one never knows when they will fail. Perhaps on a trip away from ones home!

The radiator cap had to be replaced last year. The upper hose would collaps during engine cool down, suggesting the relief valve in the cap was not opening which allows for fluid to go back and forth to the overflow tank. I think you may have helped me understand that one.

Now my killer is having to wait for the parts. Remembering where everything goes is not as good as it used to be. Age takes it's toll!

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  #14  
Old 02-17-2015, 02:09 PM
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Re: coolant leak

I just removed the fluid lines on the hydraulic fan motor assy and the connector from the solenoid. There is not that much more to remove before you can take the fan assy of together.
But you said that you have the steering cooler in front of the condenser? On my jeep the steering cooler is part of the condenser, in fact the upper 1/4 part of the condenser is the steering cooler. You have to look well to see the difference between the condenser part and the steering cooler part, the difference is the size of the cooling tubes.
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  #15  
Old 02-17-2015, 06:38 PM
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Re: coolant leak

Frank,

I think I attached a p[icture of the condenser and steering cooler. One line off the cooler goes to the pump tank and the other goes to the steering gear. It looks like I could take the other line off the steering gear which goes up and over the fan motor and then disconnect the other line coming from the motor which goes to the pump. I have no idea how much fluid I would loose doing that, but it looks like that would allow me to remove the entire radiator with the shroud and fan motor assembly together. There is, like you mentioned, an electric connector on the riders side going to a sensor. I have one QT of the power steering fluid, MS 5931. If I break the lines loose, I would loose some fluid, but I would hope I would have enough to top off after everything is reconnected. Does that sound about right?

If you cannot see the picture, it's pretty obvious that the steering cooler is seperate from the condenser. The lines for the condenser run off to the riders side while the lines from the cooler run off to the drivers side and the tank and steering gear unit. this is the first time I have tried to post a picture. I hope i did it right.
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  #16  
Old 02-17-2015, 07:45 PM
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Re: coolant leak

Yeh, i see that your setup is quite different from mine. Maybe has to do with that my jeep is build in Austria.
It is maybe a good idea to change all the steering fluid at this time. There is no recommendation to change the fluid as far as i know, but since the fluid is not filtered, some wear particles will flow through the system all the time. At least i did change all the fluid when i replaced my radiator.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2015, 05:06 PM
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Re: coolant leak

Well, finally everything is apart and I pulled the radiator with the fan assembly together. I broke one line from the steering gear and the other line from the bottom of the fan motor. I saved what fluid leaked out, which was about a QT, but I have a new QT to refill with later.

With the radiator out, it's real easy to get to all the bolts holding the water pump. Three of them are long bolts and I am pretty sure they pass through the cooling passages. So I will need to use some sealant on those threads.

No gum or sediment of any kind anywhere that I could see. I will be using Valvoline Xerox G-05 HOAT coolant. I have found that at our local NAPA store for about $16.00 a gal. That's the concentrate which will need to be blended with distilled water 50/50.

This has been a long drawn out job for me. Even the transmittion cooler lines were very difficult to break loose from the connections on the radiator. I actually cut the rubber connection lines at the tubing stubs and lifted the radiator out. With the fan assembly off on the bench, I was able to break loose the connections for the trans. I think tomorrow I will put it all back together.
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2015, 07:56 PM
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Re: coolant leak

I put the steel tube stubs on the flare fittings for the transmission cooler while on the bench. I got both as tight as I could without twisting the cooler fittings.

After all was replaced, which included the front bumber and grill, I filled all three systems with the proper fluid and started the engine and ran till full temperature. Let set over night and the next day, I was shocked to see some transmission fluid had ran down from the lower cooler fitting. With the skid plate in place, there is no way to get to it to tighten the flare nut and so off came the bumper so as to get the skid plate off. I could not move the flare nut without seeing the flare stub start to turn, so I took the whole thing apart again. With the radiator on the bench, I was able to remove the tubing stubs from the flare stubs on the cooler that is built into the radiator. I have read where many others have had the same kind of leak and had tried to seal the flare threads. Those threads will not make the seal. It's the flare faces that seal the connection. I removed the large nut and washer from the flare stub and upon inspection I was able to back the flare stub out of the cooler box. Both stubs are threaded into the box and those threads are pipe or tapered threads. So I used thread sealant on those threads and reinstalled the stubs very tight. Then I reinstalled the large washer and nut, tightening it down very tight as well. Then I applied some light oil to the stub threads and reinstalled both tubing stubs which are connected to the transmission cooling lines close to the bottom of the radiator with 3/8 rubber hose.

This time, I left the bumper and skid plate off while doing the first warm up after all systems were topped off again. I think I got it this time.

I do not have any special tools to work with the spring hose clamps, so I have replaced the radiator hose clamps with screw type.

Anyone doing a radiator or water pump on a 4.7 HO WJ, I would suggest taking off the entire front end. It did take some time, but it made it much easier to get the radiator out and the water pump installed as well. That skid plate hides so much and makes it almost impossible to get to even the drain cock, lower hose clamps, thermostat, etc. Also I used anti sieze compound on all the screws going back together. If there is ever a next time, maybe things will come apart a little easier.
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2015, 09:50 AM
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Re: coolant leak

All is good with this repair. Again, an OEM radiator at $205.00 and a OEM water pump at $135.00 from MoParPartsOnline. Quaility parts, but just had to wait for shipping. Valvoline HOAT rated G-05 coolant for $16.00 a gal. concentrate. Thanks to all for the tips and suggestions.
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