Re: Driver's side door
Have a close look at the wiring inside the door/chassis boot on the driver side. All that opening /closing takes a toll and the 'old' wires get brittle. I just had a random problem develop where the interior lights stayed on all the time and the display said 'driver door open' ( it wasn't of course).
I found the easiest way was to disconnect the negative terminal of the batt, place a bucket or similar to sit on and carefully examine the state of the wires. Note: the wiring harness attaches to the inside firewall with a 10mm an donce removed, allows better manipulation of the wires for checking. You'll need to detach the accordion boot (visible when door open) and once detached, can be moved towards the door side or into the cabin side.
I had good results by finessing the boot towards the cabin (through the chassis to get the 'visual' of all the wires) and did remove the door panel before realizing that gave no advantage as the wire break was in the space between the door and the chassis where it is 'swinging' each time the door is opened /closed.
In my case, one of the larger wires had broken like a paperclip from the motion and as the space is confined, I just added a two inch jumper of same gauge, solder the connections and taped it back together. I also re-taped the wire bundle to help reduce the flexing.
If you don't have a one handed, multiguage wire stripper, the fix is 'do-able' with a sharp knife to remove some insulation but space is at a premium and was glad I had one in the box.
Note: a bright light is very helpful and DMM won't go astray when checking for continuity.
Good luck with the search!