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Old 06-21-2016, 07:24 PM
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Driver's side door

The dome light does not come on, and the information center does not show the door is open. This is on a 2000 Grand Cherokee Laredo. What could be the cause?

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Old 06-22-2016, 08:16 PM
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Re: Driver's side door

Nobody???
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:17 AM
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Re: Driver's side door

I would first disconnect the battery for some minutes and see if it starts working normally. The BCM can freeze up and cause problems like this. If that doesn´t help, check for a broken wire in the drivers door boot.
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:20 AM
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Re: Driver's side door

I have tried both of those tips, but it didn't fix it.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:43 PM
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Re: Driver's side door

Sometimes the wire isolation is still intact, while the wire is internally broken. Did you try and bend the wires a bit, to see if there is not a weak spot, which would indicate a breakage?
The door indication itself comes from the door ajar switch, inside the door lock motor assy and goes to the drivers door module. You probably will need to take the door cover of and check the wiring. Besides wiring, it can be the ajar switch or the drivers door module.
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Old 07-23-2016, 10:09 PM
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Re: Driver's side door

Have a close look at the wiring inside the door/chassis boot on the driver side. All that opening /closing takes a toll and the 'old' wires get brittle. I just had a random problem develop where the interior lights stayed on all the time and the display said 'driver door open' ( it wasn't of course).

I found the easiest way was to disconnect the negative terminal of the batt, place a bucket or similar to sit on and carefully examine the state of the wires. Note: the wiring harness attaches to the inside firewall with a 10mm an donce removed, allows better manipulation of the wires for checking. You'll need to detach the accordion boot (visible when door open) and once detached, can be moved towards the door side or into the cabin side.
I had good results by finessing the boot towards the cabin (through the chassis to get the 'visual' of all the wires) and did remove the door panel before realizing that gave no advantage as the wire break was in the space between the door and the chassis where it is 'swinging' each time the door is opened /closed.
In my case, one of the larger wires had broken like a paperclip from the motion and as the space is confined, I just added a two inch jumper of same gauge, solder the connections and taped it back together. I also re-taped the wire bundle to help reduce the flexing.
If you don't have a one handed, multiguage wire stripper, the fix is 'do-able' with a sharp knife to remove some insulation but space is at a premium and was glad I had one in the box.
Note: a bright light is very helpful and DMM won't go astray when checking for continuity.
Good luck with the search!
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