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  #13  
Old 01-22-2013, 05:02 PM
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Re: Starting in cold weather

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Originally Posted by Tony Norton View Post
A trick I picked up when I was running a Pajero (Which I wish I still owned) with what was called a "Winter Pack", i.e. 2 chunky batteries in parallel, was to turn on the ignition and when the heater coil light goes out turn the ignition immediately off and then on again, maybe repeating if necessary.

Your very low temperatures, and the correspondingly cold engine block and head, will reduce the heaters' temperatures pretty quickly. The repeat action tends to compensate for this.

Might work.

Tony N
You are talking about diesel engine now Tony, on gas engine this will not work. The only thing is that you will prime the fuel system and could compensate low rail pressure by doing the ignition switch thing.
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  #14  
Old 01-22-2013, 06:01 PM
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Re: Starting in cold weather

You're right of course Frank. I totally forgot that Gas engines don't have heaters.

Tony N
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:48 PM
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Re: Starting in cold weather

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Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
The second number in the code 15W30 is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature (at least it means that the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature is the same as of a straight 30 oil). The first number is representing the viscosity of the oil when cold (or at least the same as of a straight 15 oil). So in your case, the 15W30 and 15W40 have the same viscosity in cold state. Only at operating temperature, the 30 will be a bit thinner then the 40.
If your jeep has the 4.7 engine, you better use 5W30 or even 0W30. Only if the engine is worn a lot, a thicker oil could increase the oil pressure and would be better.
But especially during start, you want to have an oil with a low viscosity, because that means less resistance for the engine to turn over, and also the oil will flow quicker to all parts and keeps the startup wear to a minimum. Most engine wear will happen during engine start and not during normal operation.
The colder it gets, the "ticker" the oil will become. Have a look once at the oil on the dipstick with the engine cold and at low temperatures. You will see that the oil will hardly flow. When you do the same with the engine at operating temperature, you will see the oil flowing to the lowest point rapidly.
But still, when you say that the engine turns over normally, the problem should not be that much the oil.
How is the maintenance, are plugs and air filter ok?
Synthetic oils have much better cold flow properties. Most auto parts stores should have a battery tester. It will show volts and have a "load" button that will simulate a start condition. If the volts drop it the red zone, no good. One weak/bad cell with this weather (cold) = no start.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:54 AM
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Re: Starting in cold weather

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Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
I agree with Hacksaw. If the engine cranks over normally, the battery and the starter are ok. If the problem is fuel pressure related, then at first start just put the ignition switch in run for 5 secs, back to off and this 2 or 3 times. The fuel pump will run for 3 secs each time and build up pressure in the fuel rail. If it starts ok then, change the fuel filter/pressure regulator.
Tried this today after another cold night, didn't really do much to make it start better.

Also, just wanted to clarify the issue because I may have been confused on what I was saying was turning over vs. starting up.

When I go to start my Jeep after these past few cold night I have to hold the key 'engine start' position for an extended amount of time before the engine will actually start running.

I will probably go have the battery tested on Saturday to see if that is the issue.

Thanks for all the tips and help everyone!
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Old 01-24-2013, 10:22 AM
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Re: Starting in cold weather

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Originally Posted by Randomhero180 View Post
Also, just wanted to clarify the issue because I may have been confused on what I was saying was turning over vs. starting up.

When I go to start my Jeep after these past few cold night I have to hold the key 'engine start' position for an extended amount of time before the engine will actually start running.

I will probably go have the battery tested on Saturday to see if that is the issue.

Thanks for all the tips and help everyone!
For that reason, I would highly doubt it's the battery. If it was a bad battery, it would run out of power from cranking for 15 seconds. Now if it started cranking at normal speed and then slowed down during those 15 seconds, I could see the battery. But since it's cranking full speed for 15 seconds, it's getting enough power.

It sounds like a sensor problem to me.
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