HID = High Intensity Discharge
Bulbs/Capsules: When looking for HID kits, all kits go by a Kelvin "K" temperature, These temperatures range from 3000k-12000k+. Now you may think "The higher the number the better" but that's simply not true. The higher "K" you go the bluer the light will be and the less lumen/light output you will get. Most OEM factory equipped HID vehicles are 4300K. For the best light output stick between the ranges of 4300K - 6000K. 4300k is usually white with a yellowish tinge, 5000k for a true white light and 6000k for a white light with a tinge of blue.
Ballasts: These little square pieces of electronics are what power the bulbs. They take the current from your 12v-24v electrical system and convert it to the huge amount required by the HID capsules to ignite at 20,000v. There are 2 types of ballast technologies.
Analog: Analog ballasts rely on coils, resistors, and capacitors to transform the DC power from your vehicle to AC power to ignite and power HID bulbs. Fluctuations in the output of power to the HID bulbs shortens the life of the bulb. In a short time it becomes noticeable that the light becomes less bright.
Digital: Digital ballasts also converts DC power from vehicles to AC power, but also have added DSP chips to improve the stability of power used to power the HID bulb. With a smaller fluctuation in power, the HID bulbs will reach their potential lifespan.
Wire Harness/Relays: These are an important and essential piece of any setup. They provide extra security and peace of mind that will protect your stock electrical system. Usually a car's stock electrical system's wiring isn't powerful enough to accommodate the electricity when first starting up an HID setup so your lights may flicker or not turn on at all. A relay is recommended by most if not all HID users.
Projector Headlights:
When looking for projectors for the WJ, there are currently 4 generations that exist on the web.
(A projector is a must over the OEM reflector headlights.)
Gen I: (Output Quality = Unknown) (Uses H1 for High, H3 for Low)
Gen II: (Output Quality = Unknown) (Uses H1 for Low and High)
Gen III: (Output Quality = Great) (Uses 9006 for Low, 9005 for High)
Gen IV / Gen V: (Output Quality = Unknown)
Gen IV / Gen V: (Output Quality = Unknown)
Angel Eyes/Halo's: When looking for projectors for your Jeep you will see these various terms. These describe the ring of light around the projector similar to a BMW. There are two types of Angel Eye/Halo technology. LED (Not very bright) and CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) CCFL's work just like your household Compact Flourescents and if you want a look that will stand out, opt for projectors with CCFL halo's.
Fog Lights: As well as outfitting your low-beams with HID some people opt for and/or like to use HID in their fogs. Putting an HID bulb in your stock fogs will not yield great results and will blind people most likely. I'm not sure about the output on the redesigned fogs for 04' but I know the output on the 99' -03' fogs isn't great. Some people opt to make their fog HID's a different/higher kelvin than their headlights which is dumb. It's better to match your low and fog light as close as possible. If you want good performing fogs you could buy a projector fog and retrofit it either into your existing light housing or mount it right around the same area as your fogs were. A very popular option os the "Blazer" projector fog. (It's not from a Chevrolet Blazer, it's the manufacturers name. Thought it has come OEM on several vehicles)
Retrofitting: The process and methodology behind retrofitting involves taking OEM projectors known for their stellar performance and installing them into your existing reflector headlights. I'm not going to go in depth about it seeing as it's really only for the true lighting enthusiast and is costly depending on your needs and wants. There are two kinds of projector types, Single Xenon (Only low beam) and Bi-Xenon (A projector with low and high-beam functionality. The high-beam is produced by way of a metal shield that drops down to allow more light to escape)
Recommended HID Sellers: (If anyone has had good experience with any non-mentioned sellers, Let me know and I can add them)
1) Xenon Depot
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/HID-Kits-s/216.htm
2) V-LED
http://www.v-leds.com/HID-Xenon/c461281/
3) The Retrofit Source
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php
4) DDM (For low cost, quality varies)
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/HID-Kits-Lighting/HID-Kits
(I'm pretty knowledgeable in the area of lighting so if anyone needs any extra or specialized help feel free to PM me.)
Bulbs/Capsules: When looking for HID kits, all kits go by a Kelvin "K" temperature, These temperatures range from 3000k-12000k+. Now you may think "The higher the number the better" but that's simply not true. The higher "K" you go the bluer the light will be and the less lumen/light output you will get. Most OEM factory equipped HID vehicles are 4300K. For the best light output stick between the ranges of 4300K - 6000K. 4300k is usually white with a yellowish tinge, 5000k for a true white light and 6000k for a white light with a tinge of blue.
Ballasts: These little square pieces of electronics are what power the bulbs. They take the current from your 12v-24v electrical system and convert it to the huge amount required by the HID capsules to ignite at 20,000v. There are 2 types of ballast technologies.
Analog: Analog ballasts rely on coils, resistors, and capacitors to transform the DC power from your vehicle to AC power to ignite and power HID bulbs. Fluctuations in the output of power to the HID bulbs shortens the life of the bulb. In a short time it becomes noticeable that the light becomes less bright.
Digital: Digital ballasts also converts DC power from vehicles to AC power, but also have added DSP chips to improve the stability of power used to power the HID bulb. With a smaller fluctuation in power, the HID bulbs will reach their potential lifespan.
Wire Harness/Relays: These are an important and essential piece of any setup. They provide extra security and peace of mind that will protect your stock electrical system. Usually a car's stock electrical system's wiring isn't powerful enough to accommodate the electricity when first starting up an HID setup so your lights may flicker or not turn on at all. A relay is recommended by most if not all HID users.
Projector Headlights:
When looking for projectors for the WJ, there are currently 4 generations that exist on the web.
(A projector is a must over the OEM reflector headlights.)
Gen I: (Output Quality = Unknown) (Uses H1 for High, H3 for Low)
Gen II: (Output Quality = Unknown) (Uses H1 for Low and High)
Gen III: (Output Quality = Great) (Uses 9006 for Low, 9005 for High)
Gen IV / Gen V: (Output Quality = Unknown)
Gen IV / Gen V: (Output Quality = Unknown)
Angel Eyes/Halo's: When looking for projectors for your Jeep you will see these various terms. These describe the ring of light around the projector similar to a BMW. There are two types of Angel Eye/Halo technology. LED (Not very bright) and CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) CCFL's work just like your household Compact Flourescents and if you want a look that will stand out, opt for projectors with CCFL halo's.
Fog Lights: As well as outfitting your low-beams with HID some people opt for and/or like to use HID in their fogs. Putting an HID bulb in your stock fogs will not yield great results and will blind people most likely. I'm not sure about the output on the redesigned fogs for 04' but I know the output on the 99' -03' fogs isn't great. Some people opt to make their fog HID's a different/higher kelvin than their headlights which is dumb. It's better to match your low and fog light as close as possible. If you want good performing fogs you could buy a projector fog and retrofit it either into your existing light housing or mount it right around the same area as your fogs were. A very popular option os the "Blazer" projector fog. (It's not from a Chevrolet Blazer, it's the manufacturers name. Thought it has come OEM on several vehicles)
Retrofitting: The process and methodology behind retrofitting involves taking OEM projectors known for their stellar performance and installing them into your existing reflector headlights. I'm not going to go in depth about it seeing as it's really only for the true lighting enthusiast and is costly depending on your needs and wants. There are two kinds of projector types, Single Xenon (Only low beam) and Bi-Xenon (A projector with low and high-beam functionality. The high-beam is produced by way of a metal shield that drops down to allow more light to escape)
Recommended HID Sellers: (If anyone has had good experience with any non-mentioned sellers, Let me know and I can add them)
1) Xenon Depot
http://www.kbcarstuff.com/HID-Kits-s/216.htm
2) V-LED
http://www.v-leds.com/HID-Xenon/c461281/
3) The Retrofit Source
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php
4) DDM (For low cost, quality varies)
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Product-Categories/HID-Kits-Lighting/HID-Kits
(I'm pretty knowledgeable in the area of lighting so if anyone needs any extra or specialized help feel free to PM me.)