Well, I did manage to get around to this today so I took a few pics and figured I'd post up exactly how simple this is.
First thing...get all your new stuff in order. I decided to buy a new OE pan, lay an entire can of Rustoleum bedliner on it, buy new pan bolts, both new filters (WIX), and new juice from the stealership.
ATF+4 - part number 5013458AA, I got 2 gallons and used 1.5.
ATF RTV gasket maker - part number 5010884AA
Trans Oil Pan - part number 68065923AA
M6-12 Bolts from Fastenal - part number - 11115715
Filters/"service kit" from Summit Racing - part number - WIX-58843
The gasket maker was used instead of the rubber gasket provided in the Summit Racing kit. $180 was spent in total.
OK, so time to get to work. I put the front axle up on stands to give myself room to work. I used a large shallow pan with a regular oil drain pan on it, and removed bolts from the back of the vehicle to the front, leaving 2 holding the pan up. It started oozing and dripping out after taking the 2nd bolt out, so be prepared. I then lifted the pan back up against the trans and removed the last two bolts, then lowered the juice-filled pan onto my drain pan. I just let it drip for awhile. This is what you should be looking at:
Here's the inside of the old pan...not bad at all...not much on the magnet!
In the pics above, you'll see the 2 filters. One is just a spin-on oil filter like you're used to seeing, and the other is a flat type. One screw holds that one on. It's a T25. Take that screw off and gently pry back and forth on it. It'll come off. Then spin off the other filter and throw them both into your drain pan. The flat filter has a seal that should still be left in the transmission. It's about the diameter of a quarter. You can see it in the pic below. That needs to be removed from the trans. I got it out with a flat head screwdriver. Lube up the new one and install it. I used the butt end of a hammer to seat it with a mallet.
Then make sure all the gasket material is off. I got lucky. Most of mine came off with the pan. A little scraping with a plastic razor blade and some brake parts cleaner, and I was all set:
Spin on your new filter after lubing the seal, and tighten like you would your engine oil filter. The flat filter's long tube presses easily into the seal you just got done seating, and the other end gets supported with that T-25 screw you took out earlier.
I then squirted out a nice bead of the RTV around the entire new pan, going around each bolt hole, and set it into place. This is probably the most critical part to make sure you don't get leaks. You want to see a little ooze out of the side. I installed all the bolts finger tight with a socket and extension, and then torqued them down to 105 INCH pounds in a diagonal pattern. When done, I went back and checked them all again. Here's what I was looking at at that point:
Now because I am the way I am, I let it sit like this for about 4 hours and did some other stuff around the garage to let the RTV cure. As I was waiting, I was cleaning up. I managed to catch everything that came out of my trans, so I measured how much fluid came out. Came to 6 liters...and that's what I ended up putting back in later. I then ran the Jeep, ran through the gears and checked the level. It was perfect. I drove around and did some errands, came home and checked again hot...still perfect.
Super easy job...just a little messy. Don't be afraid to tackle this one! Lube your trannies....LUBE THEM!!!!
Tony-04 Limited HO
, DkKhaki w/tan leather int. All LED lighting, 5000k Xtreme HID projs. (deambered)&fogs w/CCFL rings, tinted tails&3rd LED brake lt, fnt glass tinted to match, shawty antenna, 6 Polk speakers, K&N FIPK, FR 70mm TB, TCM#10 snip, Flashpaq'ed on 91 tune, Bilstien HD's, Addcos, polished 20" SRT reps, Hankook Ventus Evos (255-45), Weathertech mats, EBC USR rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, Magnaflow muffler, RB1 Nav w/iPod kit, de-badged, roof rack delete.
15 Cherokee KL
Latitude Edition with cold weather package. Bone stock.
: 99 TJ Sport, 98 XJ Sport, 06 WK Laredo, 09 KK