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  #25  
Old 02-25-2013, 08:05 AM
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  #26  
Old 02-25-2013, 09:15 PM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

Not exactly knowing how the plugs should come off and on top of this the dirt that has collected on the plugs over time, is not making it easy to remove them. I removed my tranny some months ago, but i didnīt had any problems in removing the speed sensor connectors, no brackets in the way on mine.
I had no problems in removing the cable end from the T-case lever. It only has a split pin to keep the cable end in place.
I didnīt see it in your description, but you will have to split the engine/transmission/T-case to get it all out, isnīt it?
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  #27  
Old 03-01-2013, 03:49 PM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

Ok, if anybody cares, I will most likely NOT be pulling my engine tomorrow, since it will be barely above freezing and I am working outdoors.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:00 PM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

I have the whole front (radiator, bumper cover, etc.) removed on my donor car so that I can remove the engine, transmission, and transfer case as an assembly. I am going to do the same on the recipient car so I can remove the old engine and install the new one as an assembly as well.
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  #29  
Old 03-11-2013, 12:08 AM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

Ok, I have not pulled the engine yet, but I have (I believe) almost completely finished removing everything to get ready, and I've got the chains and a load leveler attached to the engine. The last batch of stuff I disconnected was the driveshafts (front and rear), the electrical connections to the starter, the last plug on the transmission, the transfer case shifter, the transmission and motor mounts, a bracket on the passenger side of the transmission that supported part of the exhaust system, and the air conditioning hoses and condenser. I would have pulled it today, but instead I helped my son replace the tie rod ends, sleeves, track bar, and steering damper on his 92 Wrangler. FYI, I've done almost all that stuff on a WJ (except for the track bar), and the Wrangler was a hell of a lot easier to work on.

Anyway, the weather looks great for next weekend, so hopefully I will be pulling an engine then.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:04 PM
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Pulled it!

Okay, we had some great weather, and I had some great help from a friend, and we got the engine out. Here are some issues that came up that I remember:

1. As others have posted on this topic, if you pull the engine/transmission/transfer case as an assembly, the tail end hangs low. We solved this by jacking up the rear as soon as the engine was clear of the cowl and running a tow strap from the end of the transfer case back up to the engine hoist hook point.

2. The exhaust crossover pipe kept being in the way. Numerous times, we had to wrestle the engine around to clear it. It was kind of crunched by the accident, this might explain it.

3. Since we were not removing the engine by itself, we could not lift the engine straight up, so the driver's side motor mount got in the way. I had to completely remove the motor mount from the engine, and I had to do it while the engine was suspended from the hoist, which was kind of scary.

4. I couldn't raise the engine high enough to clear the track bar because the throttle body was beneath the cowl, and the track bar was preventing the engine from being able to be pulled forward. I couldn't disconnect the driver's side of the track bar because the bolt was blocked by the bump stop. I spent some time cursing the engineers who designed the car before I realized that the whole area was deformed because of the accident. I ended up removing the passenger side of the track bar and that allowed it to drop out of the way.

5. One of the last electrical connections that needed to be removed was the crankshaft position sensor. At least, I think that's what it was; it was low on the passenger side towards the rear of the engine. The plug was very hard to get out.

6. It was kind of hard to get it set up on a dolly so I could unhook the engine hoist. I don't like the way it's supported right now; I'm going to have to do something about it.

Glad that's off my to do list! I'll post some pics tomorrow.
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  #31  
Old 03-18-2013, 08:55 PM
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Pictures

Okay, here are some pictures I took with my phone while we were pulling it. The first one shows the wrecked Jeep with the engine hoist pulled up in front of it, attached to the engine. You can see the load leveler. The second and third pictures show how I hooked up the chains. I looped one over the two studs sticking up vertically out of the heads toward the rear of the engine, high enough to not crush the throttle body when the chains went taut. I read in a thread somewhere that you should use the nuts from the motor mount bolts on these studs, so that's what I did. They are flanged, so I installed them upside down because they seemed to nest into the chain better that way. I attached another chain to the stud sticking out horizontally from the front of the engine, then I attached the load leveler as you see.
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  #32  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:36 PM
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More pictures

Okay here are some more pictures. The first is a closeup that shows how the chains are attached to the vertical studs. This is important because this chain took virtually 100% of the combined weight of the engine, transmission, and transfer case. I was initially concerned that the chains would try to pull the studs toward each other as well as up, but I decided not to worry about it, and I saw no evidence during the lift that the horizontal component of the force was bending the studs, so that worked out okay.

In the second picture, you can see that the engine/transmission/transfer case (from here on referred to as ETTC) assembly is really tail heavy and wanted to droop in the back. You'll notice from the position of the load leveler that the looped chain on the vertical studs was taking nearly all the load. I think if you were just pulling the engine, the stud on the front would be useful, but with the weight of the whole ETTC, the only good it does is it gives you somewhere to grab to move the ETTC around while you try to get it out. I think next time I won't use the load leveler, which will give me more possible lift range on the engine hoist.

The third and fourth pictures show how we had to position it to get it out. Until we got the transfer case clear of the exhaust crossover pipe, the front axle, and all the steering and suspension parts, it helped to lift it on a tilt like that, so it comes out more or less straight up. However, the engine hoist did not have enough lift range to get the transfer case to clear the bumper support in the tilted position. So when we got it out as far as you see in the third and fourth pictures, where the oil pan was above the bumper support, we gently lowered it until it was resting on the bumper support, then we lowered it some more until the front of the ETTC dropped and the tail raised up, until the ETTC was horizontal. Then we attached a tow strap (we could have used another chain) between the hoist hook and the transfer case to maintain the horizontal position. Then we raised the ETTC until the oil pan was off the bumper bracket, and slid the hoist with the engine on it away from the car. (We actually tried attaching the tow strap to the transfer case before we got it into the horizontal position, but it didn't do any good, so we readjusted it after we got it into the horizontal position, but when I do this again, because I will have to do this again, twice as a matter of fact, once to get the blown engine out and once to install the good engine, I will do it as I described above.)

The fifth and six pictures show the engine on the driveway in front of the car, and then inside my garage, on cheap Harbor Freight furniture dollies, that will barely roll on their tiny plastic wheels when they have the weight of an engine on them. But they are great for the price.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 2013-03-17_17.24.55.jpg (586.5 KB, 15 views)
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File Type: jpg 2013-03-17_18.43.31.jpg (581.7 KB, 14 views)
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  #33  
Old 03-19-2013, 11:54 AM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

Good to see that the work is progressing. Was it not easier, looking back, to remove the T- case and tranny first?
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  #34  
Old 03-20-2013, 06:52 AM
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Re: Easier to remove tranny and t-case first?

I don't really know the answer to that question. Considering that I want to use the entire drivetrain from the donor vehicle, not just the engine, I never seriously thought through for myself how much work it would be to separate the engine from the transmission, and based on what I have read on forums and what a real mechanic told me, it's a very tough job while the drivetrain is in the vehicle, so I just ruled it out as an option. The mechanic said that you have to have all the wobble sockets, u-joint socket adapters, extensions, etc., that they make, and even then the way the engine is positioned so far back into the engine compartment, under the cowl, makes it really difficult to get to those bolts. I have only swapped one other engine in my life, from a 1973 Dodge Charger with a 318, and I just did the engine, and I always regretted that I didn't just pull the whole drivetrain, because in hindsight I think it would have been easier. (I also replaced a transmission by itself, in a 1973 Plymouth 'Cuda, and that was way harder than pulling an engine, and I wished even more during that nightmare that I had just pulled the whole drivetrain.)

Considering the pros and cons, the major con to keeping the drivetrain together is that you have to remove the bumper, radiator, A/C condensor, etc. from the front of the vehicle to make room. However, I have done that before and I know how to do it. It takes some time but it's actually kind of simple. Plus, the bumper cover on my recipient vehicle is cracked (the entire driver's side fog lamp is broken off), and as it turns out the front bumper cover from my donor vehicle, while the wrong color, is still intact, because it was removed before the wreck to make room for an aftermarket bumper. If I coordinate this right, I might be able to get that painted and put onto the vehicle as part of the engine swap.

Plus another thing is that I plan to pull the busted drivetrain out with the wiring harness still attached - it is attached to both the engine and transmission - and then move the harness over to the new drivetrain before installing it. That will mean less work to get the new drivetrain hooked up and running after installation, and the work I will be avoiding includes a lot of laying on the ground or reaching into corners, blind, trying to plug stuff in, which I hate.

I'm not saying I'm completely right, it's just that I'm satisfied in how I'm doing it. In other situations, for people with different levels of expertise and experience (i.e., people who are less ignorant then I am), it might have made sense to do it a different way. I'm interested in hearing the opinions of others on this topic.
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Old 03-20-2013, 06:55 PM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

I never changed the engine on my WJ, but did the tranny and T-case last year. Not that difficult and i didn't use any special spanner or socket to get the job done. You only need a good lifting platform to support the weight of the tranny, which is around 70-80 kg and the jeep has to be from the ground, to create space to remove the tranny from under it. If you would only remove it and install on the other engine, you could just simply let it stay under the jeep.
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  #36  
Old 03-21-2013, 07:06 PM
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Re: Putting 4.7 V8 from 01 GC into 03 GC

My main concerns about replacing the engine only would be

1. Getting to the bolts that connect the transmission to the engine near the top of the engine, tucked way back under the cowl, behind the throttle, and

2. Disconnecting the torque converter.

How hard were these two things when you did it? If I could be convinced that neither one of those two were that hard, I might do the engine only.
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