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  #85  
Old 06-17-2016, 12:15 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by Fudgeanyone View Post
I got hold of Kori at Jeep Care and she ran the VIN and found it on the S13 list thus a wiring harness is required. Kori is a wealth of knowledge when it comes to flat towing.

Thanks for the comments.
Thanks for the feedback! Any idea what the "S13" list is?

What was all the 5i4S stuff the dealer was so intelligently speaking of? Should we all meet up at that dealership and let them know how we feel?

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  #86  
Old 06-17-2016, 06:11 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by Array View Post
Thanks for the feedback! Any idea what the "S13" list is?

What was all the 5i4S stuff the dealer was so intelligently speaking of? Should we all meet up at that dealership and let them know how we feel?
The 5I4S is still a 5I4 and the dealer should know the facts and be familiar with the way to find info in the latest Owner manual version. He is either misrepresenting the tow-kit issue or misrepresenting his knowledge of the product he is selling. Better still to avoid a dealer like that.
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  #87  
Old 06-18-2016, 06:49 PM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by Array View Post
First time I've heard about the sales code actually being involved. When I read that TSB I thought, well isn't it always going to be a 4x4 if it's AD2? Hopefully the dealer knows what they are talking about. Here are a few points I would want clarification on:

- What does the 'S' in the sales code indicate?

I have no idea..

- What is different about this TH with the 5i4S sales code that makes it immune to the death wobble while being towed?

- Did this vehicle get the "FLAT TOW OWNER ADDENDUM CARD"

Yes, I did receive the addendum from FCA

To me, this doesn't make sense. Is it possible that the sales code 5i4S is not qualified to get the kit for some reason (e.g. built for non-NAFTA), but that doesn't mean it won't go into the death wobble?

Let us know anything you learn. Be careful out there .
They did tell me mine was not eligible for the kit, but after showing them the addendum, they backtracked and installed anyway.
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  #88  
Old 06-18-2016, 10:45 PM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

No one at the dealership or Jeep Cares knows anything about the difference between "5I4" and "5I4S". Since the Cherokee I am buying is used there was no change to the owner manual. I contacted Kori with Jeep Cares who is the expert for flat towing. She has what she refers to the S13 list that indicates all the vehicles that require the wiring harness. Mine was on the list. Not only did she agree to pay for the part and installation, she found the part and is having it shipped to my dealer. I should be here next week. I think everyone that has a Jeep Cherokee for flat towing will need the wiring harness and should get it as quickly as possible.

Wally
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  #89  
Old 06-19-2016, 06:36 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by SacsTC View Post
They did tell me mine was not eligible for the kit, but after showing them the addendum, they backtracked and installed anyway.
Glad they did it, hopefully at no charge. No one seems to know how "5I4S" can be one of the myriad 3-digit sales codes anyway.

This could be just more misunderstanding of product by dealers. All the KL Cherokees have the wobble tendencies, however only the models which are towable "4 down" require a kit which is intended to stop the wobble while ignition is off.
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Old 06-19-2016, 11:35 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

When I read that after the wiring kit is installed, a switch needs to be toggled, and an engine-compartment fuse needs to be pulled. I can't understand why the "engineering" dept at FCA, didn't simply use a DPST toggle switch in the dash. It makes absolutely no sense to me.

If the switch they install, opens one circuit (a signal to the ECU), and the fuse opens a different (power) circuit, then just use a double-pole switch, which is nothing more that 2 switches operated by one toggle. Oh yes, of course then the kit would require some additional wire, run from the location of the newly installed fuse, up to the dash-mounted switch, but once that;s done, it's simply flip a switct to go from "drive" to "tow", and back. No fussing under the hood, in heavy rain or blistering heat.

And they say their little fuse and toggle switch kit is a $540 installation? How's they come up with that? Engineering fee to fix their design problem?
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  #91  
Old 06-19-2016, 11:48 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by CaptWill View Post
.... And they say their little fuse and toggle switch kit is a $540 installation? How's they come up with that?
Based on the installation instructions, it appears a lot of the cost is labor to work in the PDC and the center console.
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Old 06-20-2016, 07:53 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by CaptWill View Post
When I read that after the wiring kit is installed, a switch needs to be toggled, and an engine-compartment fuse needs to be pulled. I can't understand why the "engineering" dept at FCA, didn't simply use a DPST toggle switch in the dash. It makes absolutely no sense to me.

If the switch they install, opens one circuit (a signal to the ECU), and the fuse opens a different (power) circuit, then just use a double-pole switch, which is nothing more that 2 switches operated by one toggle. Oh yes, of course then the kit would require some additional wire, run from the location of the newly installed fuse, up to the dash-mounted switch, but once that;s done, it's simply flip a switct to go from "drive" to "tow", and back. No fussing under the hood, in heavy rain or blistering heat.

And they say their little fuse and toggle switch kit is a $540 installation? How's they come up with that? Engineering fee to fix their design problem?

I believe that the fuse activates one circuit (on the EPS system) while the switch disconnects another circuit to prevent error codes from being sent to the ECU.

As to the cost, it should be zero under all circumstances, to any owner, since the vehicle was advertised as towable-4-wheels-down.
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Old 08-23-2016, 10:36 PM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

I've pulled my Cherokee a half-dozen times using the flat towing kit. No issues, but I find it to be an aggravation to have to pop the hood to insert or pull the fuse. Some have talked about adding a switch to the circuit, but unless you run the wiring into the vehicle, you'll still be popping the hood to turn the switch off or on.

Since I'm already plugging a power cord for the lights from my motorhome to the jeep, is there any reason why I can't simply use the 12V power source from the motorhome to connect to the fused wire rather than using the Battery Control Center as the power source? That would alleviate the need to open the hood.
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:22 PM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by MrK454 View Post
I've pulled my Cherokee a half-dozen times using the flat towing kit. No issues, but I find it to be an aggravation to have to pop the hood to insert or pull the fuse. Some have talked about adding a switch to the circuit, but unless you run the wiring into the vehicle, you'll still be popping the hood to turn the switch off or on.

Since I'm already plugging a power cord for the lights from my motorhome to the jeep, is there any reason why I can't simply use the 12V power source from the motorhome to connect to the fused wire rather than using the Battery Control Center as the power source? That would alleviate the need to open the hood.
On the Jeep Cherokee Club forum in a thread titled 'Severe shaking problem towing behind a motorhome' there is a member, screen name 'dpinvidic', that has figured out how to automate the process similar to what you are talking about.

You might try searching that thread for his post.
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  #95  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:14 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by MrK454 View Post
I've pulled my Cherokee a half-dozen times using the flat towing kit. No issues, but I find it to be an aggravation to have to pop the hood to insert or pull the fuse. Some have talked about adding a switch to the circuit, but unless you run the wiring into the vehicle, you'll still be popping the hood to turn the switch off or on.

Since I'm already plugging a power cord for the lights from my motorhome to the jeep, is there any reason why I can't simply use the 12V power source from the motorhome to connect to the fused wire rather than using the Battery Control Center as the power source? That would alleviate the need to open the hood.
That should work and sounds like the easiest solution. When the umbilical cord is plugged in, the relay in FCA's harness is energized which connects the KL's power to the power steering module.
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  #96  
Old 08-24-2016, 10:47 AM
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Re: 2014 Jeep Cherokee rv tow wobble

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Originally Posted by Array View Post
That should work and sounds like the easiest solution. When the umbilical cord is plugged in, the relay in FCA's harness is energized which connects the KL's power to the power steering module.
I am assuming that re-routing the circuit to utilize the MH's 12v power rather than the 12 volts from the Battery Distribution Center's connection would not adversely affect the operation of the Power Steering, and "the relay in FCA's harness" was one of the questions I have. Do you know where the dealer installs that relay, as I don't see it under the hood. It would seem to me that the relay would be in the circuit that activates the electric power steering, the circuit into which we insert the fuse.

I just went to check the amperage draw on that circuit. I tested at the point where the fuse would go, and found a draw of 0.19 amps. When I made the connection, I could hear an audible "click", akin to a relay engaging. Unless the current draw is greater when the vehicle is being towed, it would seem to be an insignificant draw on the Jeep's battery and no need to run the Jeep every three hours to keep the battery charged.

In my case, I have an air-actuated braking system, so the only draw on the Jeep's battery is for the occasional illumination of the brake lights. Power for other lighting (directional signals and running lights) is from my motorhome. It would seem to make sense to re-route the circuit with the fuse directly into my MH's 12v so that I can leave the fuse in place and make the connection to it when I connect the 'umbilical cord'.
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