First oil change – some info and comments - Page 21 - Jeep Garage - Jeep Forum

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  #241  
Old 01-28-2015, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philbytx View Post
Install a Quick Drain Valve and the job is a breeze

Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™
+1. Made my oil change very straightforward.

I have the F106 model with the detachable nipple and drain tube, but I won't bother using the nipple + tube again. I'll just let the oil flow.

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  #242  
Old 01-28-2015, 06:56 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by jp6544 View Post
Fairly helpful, would suggest adding the socket sizes for the filter housing (27mm found on conflictedracer blog) and drain bolt (13mm from experience)
If you are referring to the first post in this thread, the 13mm and 27mm socket sizes are clearly stated in it.
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  #243  
Old 01-28-2015, 07:06 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill View Post

Per mopar.com, part 68229402AA has superseded the other one. It's still egregiously expensive though.

It would be nice if we could get the OP modified to reflect that. There's a lot of confusion surrounding the matter.
Good idea. But I just tried to edit the first post to include the new part number but couldn't because there is no longer an "EDIT" button at the bottom..
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  #244  
Old 01-28-2015, 09:22 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by philbytx View Post
Install a Quick Drain Valve and the job is a breeze

Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™


Use them on all my vehicles.

+1

Just be careful not to over tighten. The fiber washer is very easy to ruin. Now I don't have to worry about the dealer screwing things up during my free oil changes.


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  #245  
Old 01-30-2015, 08:06 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by shoestring View Post
Good idea. But I just tried to edit the first post to include the new part number but couldn't because there is no longer an "EDIT" button at the bottom..

Just for the record and thanks to Roadkill I got the first post edited with the new part number for the oil filter (and added this video on how to reset the oil life indicator if anyone hasn't seen it mentioned previously)

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  #246  
Old 01-30-2015, 10:48 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

That procedure is for US car, export is different.


B. Vehicles with push-button start:

1. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the ENGINE START/STOP button and cycle the ignition to the ON/ RUN position (Do not start the engine).
2. Slowly depress the accelerator to the floor and release it three times within 10 seconds.
3. Without pressing the brake pedal, press the ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the ignition to the OFF/LOCK position.

C. Vehicles with diesel engines (export models):

1. Cycle the ignition to the "ON/RUN" position (Do not start the engine).
2. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it fully depressed for at least 30 seconds.
3. Press and release the brake pedal six times while holding the accelerator pedal pressed.
4. Perform one ignition OFF-ON cycle, start the engine and verify that the reminder has been reset.
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  #247  
Old 02-06-2015, 12:16 AM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

I stumbled across this youtube video of a guy doing an oil change on a Ram 1500 CRD which he says is out of warranty so he changed to using a synthetic Quaker State oil and a quart of Lucas synthetic oil "stabilizer".

I don't know about the merits of that stabilizer stuff...and I could be wrong but it appears the oil isn't "low ash" meeting the MS-11106 spec. (If it does meet the spec I guess we have another choice - if it doesn't, he's a brave tester.)

He also says by switching to it he got 50% less DEF usage and half the particles and metal in the oil..???.. He said his DEF usage he got 2200 miles on 6 gallons with the Pennzoil Euro L, then he got 5200 miles on 6 gallons after switching..hmm. (if I was getting 2200 miles on 6 gallons of DEF my Jeep and I would be back at the dealer) He also said he used some "natural gas" Pennzoil oil in comparison (I looked it up - it's a relatively new oil that apparently uses natural gas as base stock instead of crude) so I couldn't follow exactly what he said he observed or thought he observed between them.

I jumped around instead of watching the full 46 minutes but at one point I saw he shows oil filters and says he's working with someone that's designing aftermarket oil filters..

click the link at the top of the video box to view:

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  #248  
Old 02-06-2015, 12:39 AM
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It's clear that the low ash MS-11106 oil we use is a compromise of engine protection in favor of the DPF.

"Ash" is more or less synonymous with "lubricant additives". It's inevitable that some of the engine oil makes it into the exhaust... thereby making it to the DPF. The organometallic lubricating agents from normal oil can't be burned off in a DPF regen (this makes sense, metal doesn't burn no matter how much diesel you ignite on it)... thus it builds up as "ash". "Soot" is organic and is what the regen burns off. Anyway, the ash builds up over time and acts like increased back pressure for the DPF... this will reduce power and lead to more frequent regens as the Jeep tries in vain to fix its "asthma". The "low ash" oil's combustion byproducts don't have this metal and therefore can be burned off as soot during a regen.

However, what about our poor engines? I'm sure they would love having better lubrication.

If out of warranty and one is willing to go "high ash" to better lube the engine it would seem best to fully commit and simply perform a DPF/SCR delete. Then DEF usage would be zero and fuel economy/power/engine lifespan would improve. Kill EGR/PCV while you're at it, too, to save the intake and the turbo... ha-ha-only-serious.
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  #249  
Old 02-06-2015, 04:59 AM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

What would be best practice for the first oil change in terms of months/miles/kilometers?
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  #250  
Old 02-06-2015, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeep_GC View Post
What would be best practice for the first oil change in terms of months/miles/kilometers?
Haha, oh man, that's like asking which football team is the best. Instant bitter debate!

My vote is to use the computer algorithm oil life meter in EVIC with Chrysler's recommended max interval of of 12 months/10,000 miles, per the manual (whichever of these comes first).

If you want to really be anal, then after the first few thousand miles send in an oil sample for Blackstone UOA + TBN ($35). That way you will have numbers to justify your decisions. That, and it costs 1/3 of what a DIY oil change costs. If you just change your oil early out of superstition you will have no idea what its health was like if you don't do the UOA. Conversely, if you do the UOA and it shows the oil is clean and has lots of life left, then why change it early? Skill and science prevails over ignorance and superstition!

I do UOA every time I change the oil.
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  #251  
Old 02-06-2015, 06:11 AM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadkill View Post
Haha, oh man, that's like asking which football team is the best. Instant bitter debate!

My vote is to use the computer algorithm oil life meter in EVIC with Chrysler's recommended max interval of of 12 months/10,000 miles, per the manual (whichever of these comes first).
.
OK thanks. I've started a few of those on here don't need another one!

I'd definitely go past 12 months if I went by miles so will keep an eye on evic and likely do the first one at 9 months if the evic hasn't said to yet.

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  #252  
Old 02-06-2015, 06:34 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

I tried all of the "specified" methods to reset the oil change indicator a few days ago.
(Mine is the "export version".)

Initially nothing worked. I tried, and tried, and tried again, varying the timing, speed of accelerator and brake pedal presses etc etc.
It finally worked on about the tenth try, just when I was about to give up. What a stupid damn system! That's ten engine starts to reset the oil change reminder.

I guess the dealer does it with a press of a button when the computer is plugged in, and they're just trying to make it hard for us to do at home.

Cya

PS Does anybody in Oz have a good source they can recommend for oil filters and air filters?
I need to buy both!
(Still have a cracked, genuine air filter, which has been repaired with silicone.)
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