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Old 12-09-2013, 09:33 PM
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First oil change – some info and comments

I recently did my first oil change at 1100 miles. (85% oil life)

Hopefully the mods will leave this here as it’s diesel specific and may be helpful to new CRD EcoDiesel owners. Although to many of you oil changes are nothing new..

I know people may not do the first one that soon. I’m curious when you’re doing your first oil change. For me, I wouldn’t be comfortable waiting for several thousand miles and the EVIC to recommend when the first one is done…but I’m not saying there’s harm in that either.

The part number for the diesel oil filter is 68109834AA.

There seems to be some confusion as to the right filter and even the dealers may not have the right info/number so make sure they give you the right one.

I paid 41 bucks for the filter at a dealer. Yes that's right, $41 for an oil filter...( "$41 for an oil filter, What The ….!?" )

(I looked up to see if Wix has a filter for it and it appears they don’t. Does anyone know of aftermarket options? I guess if I ever had a warranty problem it would be good to have receipts for using Mopar filters though..)

The oil drain plug is a 13mm – I like that the plug goes straight up so it’s nice that the oil drains straight down. If you have skid plates it’s easily accessible with a nice size cutout in the plate.

The filter housing cap is a 27mm.

I found conflicting info on the amount of oil to service it with. The owner’s manual states 8 quarts (7.7 liters) but on the chart in this link below it says 9 quarts (8.4 liters)

I used 8 quarts as stated in the manual which I believe is correct. More and it would have been over full.

I used Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.

In the link below its says “MOBIL 1® SAE 5W-30 Low Ash Fully Synthetic oil, meeting the requirements of ACEA C3
Mopar p/n 05166241AA, MSRP $7.85/quart”


(Mobil 1 ESP is a low ash synthetic designed for diesels)

Link:

Jeep Grand Cherokee WK2 - Maintenance information and schedules


I may be wrong but I thought I read somewhere here that the factory fill is Mobil 1 and that is the supplier of the Mopar branded oil. Does anyone know if that is correct? The quote from the link makes it look that way.

It seems to be a bit of a scam obtaining Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. The only place I could find it, other than one supplier on Ebay, was at Pep Boys and it was over 12 bucks a liter. (apparently it doesn’t come in quarts, and one liter = 1.05 quarts.)

I even saw some comments on Amazon that the price of it was jacked up because of Pep Boys and it’s not a Mobil 1 increase. And Amazon only had the 5w40 and the manual calls for 5w30. (the Amazon comments are for the 5w40 if you want to look)

Or maybe the ESP just costs more to make..??..

At those prices, oil from the dealer is less expensive.

In order to remove the filter cap and filter you’ll have to remove the air intake hose. That’s a simple matter of one screw on each end. There is also another smaller hose right in the way there that I used some zip ties to hold off to the side out of the way; I tied it to the larger hose right next to it. Depending on how fussy you are you could probably just keep it out of the way with the backside of your hand/arm but I felt it was easier to just have it held out of my way so I could have good access and a good look at the filter housing. It’s a bit down in there but not bad.

After I got the CRD GC lifted I started the oil pan draining but waited some time for the oil to drain from the filter housing. When I cracked the filter seal housing open I heard air pressure equalize and then I left it several more minutes for the oil to continue to drain down. (I forgot but it’s a good idea to open the oil fill cap and pull the dip stick up as it has an O-ring seal when draining oil).

I think if you just shut her down and then pull the housing/filter right away you’ll have a big mess. I did wrap the housing in rags as recommended but I also wanted to make this a mess free endeavor as possible on my shiny new engine.

By the time I pulled the cap and filter I didn’t get any oil spilling out. And when changing oil I always let it drain out a long time too anyway. When I removed the filter there was still oil in the bottom of the housing that was draining down. A turkey baster is good here to pull out those few ounces. Then I soaked up the rest with a shop towel. Maybe a bit over the top but I wanted to see what the bottom of the housing looked like anyway. And ensuring residual oil is out of the housing, either by pulling it out or letting it drain all the way down, will ensure you don't get oil coming out of the housing when you install the new filter and tighten the cap down. Installing the filter and cap is easy, I was just sure not to over tighten that plastic housing. If you really want to go crazy the filter cap gets torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

Oh don't forget the new O-ring on the filter housing cap and some oil around it and that it's seated properly. The cap screws down several turns; I turn it slowly to go easy on that O-ring.

I don’t think this is a job for a Jiffy Lube type place (although I doubt new CRD owners are going there anyway). They would probably make a mess of the thing. And who knows if they even have the right filter and/or oil for it?..

And to do it right, it really has to drain a while. (see SB link below)

And wait before starting up after filling with oil:


"WARNING: Any time the oil is drained and filled it is critical to wait 15 minutes before starting the engine."


Here is a link with the Service Bulletin dated Nov. 22, 2013 “Engine Oil Filter Service”:

http://wk2jeeps.com/engine/3.0L_oil_...oval_NAFTA.pdf


So, my oil change cost about $150...and that was doing it myself !

I wonder how much the dealer would charge, but I’m not planning on finding out!

(buying a CRD, one may want to negotiate some free dealer oil changes thrown in, probably wouldn’t be a bad idea)

Oh, and an important part of the do-it-yourself oil change is after you are done, to put one foot on a log and pound your chest (well ok, that's optional)

If you have any tips, info or comments please share
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:01 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

If you wish to read some fun re oil requirements then see these two older threads in the export section where we have had the diesel for 3 years.
A great deal will have nothing to do with you in the US, as process and suppliers are discussed, but it is a great reference for the importance of which oils are actually suitable.

CRD oil on special

CRD engine oil revisited
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Old 12-09-2013, 11:47 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Thanks for the writeup! A few questions:

1. Where did you eventually get your oil from?

2. Did you reset the oil service counter?

3. Have you considered the impact of DIY oil change on your warranty? Most warranty claims on the engine will require you to show "work done" (its not enough to show oil purchase receipts).
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:47 AM
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Thanks for the write up!

I'm at 2200 miles but my EVIC is only showing 62% oil life remaining - so i be doing this soon.

I bought the Pennzoil Euro L referenced in the owners manual for about $50 per 6 quarts. (Free shipping with Amazon Prime)
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:12 AM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Thank you for the write-up. Hope it helps the rest of you.
For me, it just re-enforced my choice of a gas engine.
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:27 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Thanks for the post. I was planning the first change at 1000 as well. What are you going to after that? I was thinking every 5000, with the second oil change at 5000 so it's easier to remember.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:58 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Great write up but sounds IMO to be complete overkill. There is no need or benefit to change the oil so often. Modern oil and modern motors are made for extended drain intervals. The 3000 drain is from the 50'. Again in IMO you are not only wasting money but oil.
I run amsoil in my duramax. It is good for 25,000 miles or one year. I have had it tested at 18,000 miles and it still showed life left in it.
Also why do you need to wait 30min after filling with new oil? Once the oil is drained you fill the pan back up. The pump has to pump it through the filter and oil passages.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:21 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

This change isn't much different than the oil changes I do in my BMW so I am pretty familiar with the cartridge style filters. I for one will not run 10K miles on a new engine. I will run about 4K then change it. After that I will run Blackstone at around 8K to see if any TBN is left. Wasting oil? Maybe but it is my engine and a new diesel engine costs a heck of a lot more than some extra oil changes. It has been my experience having owned a number of vehicles that have extended oil change intervals that a lot of it depends on what kind of driving you do. Lots of stop and go driving short distances in cold climates really are tough on the engine. High speed driving in temperate climates are much easier on the engine. This is reflected in what the oil analysis shows.
If the numbers look good at 8K I have no issue going 10K miles between changes using approved oils.
Anyone pushing past the 10K mile change interval when you are under warranty is asking for a claim denial from Jeep.
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:18 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Did you see any metal shavings or flakes in the oil or bottom of the filter? Any signs of break-in residue?
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:25 AM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

I agree, you are never going to do any harm changing your oil more often but it is unnecessary. You could go to the doctor or the dentist every month for a checkup or change you oil every 1000 miles. why not change all the fluids once a month can’t hurt right?
I have 195,000 mile on a diesel motor probably around 70,000 miles of those are towing. I have sent my oil out for analysis after 15,000 - 18,000 mile and they have always come back with more life in them. so yes i could change it at 8k but why? to deny a warranty claim Jeep would have to prove that the oil is what caused the failure.
It it makes you feel better to change the oil every day go for it but it is a waste of not only your money but yeas also oil. if 20,000 owners change their oil every 3k and put 15k on their motor each year that’s 800,000 quarts of oil or if you only changed it when needed it would only be 160,000 quarts. That’s only 20,000 owners imagine how much good oil we dump.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:09 AM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

Nailem
You have your opinion others have theirs. I do oil analysis and that is why I stayed with 5000 mile changes on my SuperDuty which did show oil was shot (low TBN) and changed at well before my BMW spec'ed changes of 15K miles or one year again because TBN was too low.

Now you do what you want I will do what I want. I use facts to make a decision as you do so I will use my heuristics and will have this Jeep well after others have moved on to the next set of improved vehicles.

I am here to learn about how the first oil change went by the OP in prep for changing mine well before 10K miles...
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:57 PM
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Re: First oil change – some info and comments

thanks guys...I'm glad some of you found this helpful (if nothing more at least you know what size sockets you need instead of trying several different ones

thanks for the oil links SNUKE...it seems a bit of a challenge for you guys Down Under to get the oil you want...what oil and when to change is always interesting reading!


Quote:
Originally Posted by netboy View Post
Thanks for the writeup! A few questions:

1. Where did you eventually get your oil from?

2. Did you reset the oil service counter?

3. Have you considered the impact of DIY oil change on your warranty? Most warranty claims on the engine will require you to show "work done" (its not enough to show oil purchase receipts).
1) I realize I didn't make it clear but I bought the oil at Pep Boys...$12.79 a liter

2) I did, as shown in the Mopar video below:



3) I'll keep my old filters just in case it ever becomes necessary as well as receipts for the oil and filters. I don't really know what else I could do to prove I've done it. And so many owners do their own oil changes so I hope I'll never need to prove it anyway!
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