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Old 01-04-2016, 11:13 PM
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Lightbulb My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

I make no apologies for my cautious/meticulous methods, materials chosen, or marginally necessary maintenance items. I keep my vehicles for a long time, don't trust other people to do these things right or at all, and I'm a bit anal. If your circumstances are different, then, by all means, make your own choices.

These are my notes and tips that I made for myself for my 2015 JGC EcoDiesel (other model years may be slightly different) and I thought they might be of use to someone else. This information was spread across several threads, several forums, a couple manuals, and personal experience. I thought it would be good to bring it all together in one place.

If I stole your idea, sorry. It must have been good . I can't recall exactly where/who to attribute every item. If your idea is copyrighted, send me a DMCA notice.

Some of these items I haven't actually done for the first time on this vehicle, so I'll probably add new tips as I actually get more experience with this vehicle and the procedures.

Andrew

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

see Diesel Supplement for fluid types and quantities

once a month or before a long trip:
------------------------------------
check oil level
top off windshield washer fluid
check tire pressures and check for unusual wear or damage
check fluid levels, top off as needed
check function of all interior and exterior lights


at every oil change interval (by indicator, 10K miles, or 1 yr, whichever is first):
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
change oil and filter
completely fill the DEF tank (or just refill at a truck stop when near empty)
drain water from fuel filter assembly
rotate tires - rotate earlier if any irregular wear
inspect battery - clean and tighten terminals as needed
inspect brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, hoses, and park brake
inspect engine cooling system and hoses
inspect exhaust system
inspect engine air cleaner
Replace the air conditioning filter
clean DEF injector and orafice in exhaust
check for any loose/missing nuts/bolts under the vehicle
Rustoleum skid plates and exposed frame/suspension metal under the vehicle


every 2yr/20K miles
---------------------
Inspect front suspension, tie rod ends, and replace if necessary
Inspect the front and rear axle fluid, change if using your vehicle for offroad or frequent trailer towing
Inspect the brake linings, parking brake function


every 3yr/30K miles
---------------------
inspect the CV joints
Inspect transfer case fluid
Replace engine air filter (clean and re-oil if aFE Pro Guard 7)
Replace fuel filters


every 5yr/50K miles
---------------------
Change transmission fluid and filter


every 10yr/100K miles
---------------------
Replace accessory drive belt(s)


every 10yr/150K miles
---------------------
Flush and replace the engine coolant


every 12yr/120K miles
---------------------
Change transfer case fluid



-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coolant (antifreeze) should be OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032
MOPARŪ Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) that meets the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS.90032
50% OAT engine coolant mix with 50% distilled or deionized water (or pre-mixed)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checking the oil (it's not as straighforward as it should be):

1. Let vehicle sit overnight.
2. Pull dipstick up past the o-ring and wait 60 seconds.
3. Pull dipstick all the way out and wipe off reading area.
4. Push dipstick all the way in and wait 60 seconds.
5. *Slowly* pull dipstick all the way out and check reading.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Oil change steps/tips:

Make sure you have the following on hand before beginning: 8qts (7.5 liters) Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil, aFe Power 44-LF035 PRO GUARD D2 Oil Filter (or MOPAR P/N 68229402AA), 13mm socket for oil drain plug (or installed fumoto valve), 27mm socket for oil filter housing cap, Blackstone oil sample kit, clean funnel, lots of shop towels, camera.

Take pictures throughout the process for proof you did the oil change. I've never had to prove that I did a proper oil change, but others haven't been so lucky.

Clean as you go. Don't leave any slop on the engine, hoses, or elsewhere. It will collect dirt and make it hard to diagnose leaks later.


1. Drive the vehicle 20 minutes or so on the highway to bring oil temperature up to 180F or so. Don't idle it up to temperature per Blackstone to avoid oil sample contamination (fuel, water).

2. Set air suspension to OR2 and set tire/jack mode in settings screen.

3. Place jack stands at each of the four jack points extended to within one notch of top (leave some space to get them out).

4. Let the vehicle sit for 10 minutes to allow the oil to drain back down to the pan. Don't skip this step or you'll have a mess when you crack open the oil filter housing.

5. Remove the plastic engine cover and move/remove the air intake hose since it obstructs access to the oil filter housing (drivers side of engine for left hand drive, mid-way down, black plastic).

6. Crack open the oil filter housing cap, open the filler neck cap, and pull the dipstick out past the o-ring to get a better flow.

7. Verify the waste oil catch pan has enough room remaining to catch 8 quarts. Remedy if needed.

8. Place oil catch pan under drain plug.

9. Get Blackstone oil sample kit ready to catch a sample from mid-drain (not beginning or end of flow).

10. 13mm 6-sided socket (not 12 point) on oil drain plug and remove drain plug (or open Fumoto valve). Get an oil sample mid-drain.

11. Oil should drain 30-60 minutes if hot, longer if cool/cold. This is a good time to do a lot of the other maintenance items that are on the same schedule as oil/filter changes.

12. 27mm 6-sided socket (not 12 point) on oil filter housing cap and remove oil filter housing cap. Filter should come up with it. You will have to push a small rubber hose (PCV hose?) out of the way (or zip tie it out of the way), but it is flexible and has sufficient travel that you don't need need to remove it.

13. If there is still oil in the filter housing, use a pump to pull it out.

14. Remove the filter and old o-ring from the filter housing cap (filter should snap out) and bag/date/mileage the old filter and o-ring. Save for warranty purposes (throw them all away when your emissions and powertrain warranties have run out). No sense giving a dealer/FCA chance to screw you over for DIY maintenance when something defective breaks.

15. Place new o-ring on filter housing cap (goes all the way up to top ring detent) and lube o-ring with a film of new oil.

16. Put new filter into filter housing cap. It should snap into place. Check fit. Make sure there are no pinched/deformed gaskets.

17. Put the filter with housing cap back into place and spin on by hand until snug. Make sure not to cross-thread. With a 27mm 6-sided socket (not 12 point) and torque ratchet, torque housing cap to 25Nm (18ftlb).

18. Replace drain plug (or close Fumoto valve).

19. Using a clean funnel, fill with 7.5 liters or 8 quarts of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil.

20. Let last of the new oil drain into engine for a full 30 minutes (15 minutes if new oil is warm).

21. Check oil level on dipstick. This is just a head check, because it will likely look overfilled at this point if done properly.

22. Open garage door (if in closed garage) and start the vehicle.

23. Idle up to operating temperature.

24. Check for leaks at oil drain plug (or Fumoto valve) and filter housing.

25. Rev engine to 3000 RPM and check for leaks again.

26. If no leaks, turn off the vehicle, pull the oil catch pan out from under the vehicle, and perform the oil change indicator reset procedure below.

Oil Change Reset Procedure
1. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button and place the ignition
to the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).
2. Fully push the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
within 10 seconds.
3. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the
ignition to the OFF/LOCK position.
NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you
start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not
reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure.


27. Remove jack stands from under the vehicle.

28. Check oil level again after sitting overnight.

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  #2  
Old 01-05-2016, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akinney View Post
I make no apologies for my cautious/meticulous methods, materials chosen, or marginally necessary maintenance items. I keep my vehicles for a long time, don't trust other people to do these things right or at all, and I'm a bit anal. If your circumstances are different, then, by all means, make your own choices.

These are my notes and tips that I made for myself for my 2015 JGC EcoDiesel (other model years may be slightly different) and I thought they might be of use to someone else. This information was spread across several threads, several forums, a couple manuals, and personal experience. I thought it would be good to bring it all together in one place.

If I stole your idea, sorry. It must have been good . I can't recall exactly where/who to attribute every item. If your idea is copyrighted, send me a DMCA notice.

Some of these items I haven't actually done for the first time on this vehicle, so I'll probably add new tips as I actually get more experience with this vehicle and the procedures.

Andrew

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

see Diesel Supplement for fluid types and quantities

once a month or before a long trip:
------------------------------------
check oil level
top off windshield washer fluid
check tire pressures and check for unusual wear or damage
check fluid levels, top off as needed
check function of all interior and exterior lights

at every oil change interval (by indicator, 10K miles, or 1 yr, whichever is first):
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
change oil and filter
completely fill the DEF tank (or just refill at a truck stop when near empty)
drain water from fuel filter assembly
rotate tires - rotate earlier if any irregular wear
inspect battery - clean and tighten terminals as needed
inspect brake pads, shoes, rotors, drums, hoses, and park brake
inspect engine cooling system and hoses
inspect exhaust system
inspect engine air cleaner
Replace the air conditioning filter
clean DEF injector and orafice in exhaust
check for any loose/missing nuts/bolts under the vehicle
Rustoleum skid plates and exposed frame/suspension metal under the vehicle

every 2yr/20K miles
---------------------
Inspect front suspension, tie rod ends, and replace if necessary
Inspect the front and rear axle fluid, change if using your vehicle for offroad or frequent trailer towing
Inspect the brake linings, parking brake function

every 3yr/30K miles
---------------------
inspect the CV joints
Inspect transfer case fluid
Replace engine air filter (clean and re-oil if aFE Pro Guard 7)
Replace fuel filters

every 5yr/50K miles
---------------------
Change transmission fluid and filter

every 10yr/100K miles
---------------------
Replace accessory drive belt(s)

every 10yr/150K miles
---------------------
Flush and replace the engine coolant

every 12yr/120K miles
---------------------
Change transfer case fluid

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Coolant (antifreeze) should be OAT coolant conforming to MS.90032
MOPARŪ Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) that meets the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS.90032
50% OAT engine coolant mix with 50% distilled or deionized water (or pre-mixed)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checking the oil (it's not as straighforward as it should be):

1. Let vehicle sit overnight.
2. Pull dipstick up past the o-ring and wait 60 seconds.
3. Pull dipstick all the way out and wipe off reading area.
4. Push dipstick all the way in and wait 60 seconds.
5. *Slowly* pull dipstick all the way out and check reading.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Oil change steps/tips:

Make sure you have the following on hand before beginning: 8qts (7.5 liters) Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil, aFe Power 44-LF035 PRO GUARD D2 Oil Filter (or MOPAR P/N 68229402AA), 13mm socket for oil drain plug (or installed fumoto valve), 27mm socket for oil filter housing cap, Blackstone oil sample kit, clean funnel, lots of shop towels, camera.

Take pictures throughout the process for proof you did the oil change. I've never had to prove that I did a proper oil change, but others haven't been so lucky.

Clean as you go. Don't leave any slop on the engine, hoses, or elsewhere. It will collect dirt and make it hard to diagnose leaks later.

1. Drive the vehicle 20 minutes or so on the highway to bring oil temperature up to 180F or so. Don't idle it up to temperature per Blackstone to avoid oil sample contamination (fuel, water).

2. Set air suspension to OR2 and set tire/jack mode in settings screen.

3. Place jack stands at each of the four jack points extended to within one notch of top (leave some space to get them out).

4. Let the vehicle sit for 10 minutes to allow the oil to drain back down to the pan. Don't skip this step or you'll have a mess when you crack open the oil filter housing.

5. Remove the plastic engine cover and move/remove the air intake hose since it obstructs access to the oil filter housing (drivers side of engine for left hand drive, mid-way down, black plastic).

6. Crack open the oil filter housing cap, open the filler neck cap, and pull the dipstick out past the o-ring to get a better flow.

7. Verify the waste oil catch pan has enough room remaining to catch 8 quarts. Remedy if needed.

8. Place oil catch pan under drain plug.

9. Get Blackstone oil sample kit ready to catch a sample from mid-drain (not beginning or end of flow).

10. 13mm 6-sided socket (not 12 point) on oil drain plug and remove drain plug (or open Fumoto valve). Get an oil sample mid-drain.

11. Oil should drain 30-60 minutes if hot, longer if cool/cold. This is a good time to do a lot of the other maintenance items that are on the same schedule as oil/filter changes.

12. 27mm 6-sided socket (not 12 point) on oil filter housing cap and remove oil filter housing cap. Filter should come up with it. You will have to push a small rubber hose (PCV hose?) out of the way (or zip tie it out of the way), but it is flexible and has sufficient travel that you don't need need to remove it.

13. If there is still oil in the filter housing, use a pump to pull it out.

14. Remove the filter and old o-ring from the filter housing cap (filter should snap out) and bag/date/mileage the old filter and o-ring. Save for warranty purposes (throw them all away when your emissions and powertrain warranties have run out). No sense giving a dealer/FCA chance to screw you over for DIY maintenance when something defective breaks.

15. Place new o-ring on filter housing cap (goes all the way up to top ring detent) and lube o-ring with a film of new oil.

16. Put new filter into filter housing cap. It should snap into place. Check fit. Make sure there are no pinched/deformed gaskets.

17. Put the filter with housing cap back into place and spin on by hand until snug. Make sure not to cross-thread. With a 27mm 6-sided socket (not 12 point) and torque ratchet, torque housing cap to 25Nm (18ftlb).

18. Replace drain plug (or close Fumoto valve).

19. Using a clean funnel, fill with 7.5 liters or 8 quarts of Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 Full Synthetic oil.

20. Let last of the new oil drain into engine for a full 30 minutes (15 minutes if new oil is warm).

21. Check oil level on dipstick. This is just a head check, because it will likely look overfilled at this point if done properly.

22. Open garage door (if in closed garage) and start the vehicle.

23. Idle up to operating temperature.

24. Check for leaks at oil drain plug (or Fumoto valve) and filter housing.

25. Rev engine to 3000 RPM and check for leaks again.

26. If no leaks, turn off the vehicle, pull the oil catch pan out from under the vehicle, and perform the oil change indicator reset procedure below.

Oil Change Reset Procedure
1. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button and place the ignition
to the ON/RUN position (do not start the engine).
2. Fully push the accelerator pedal, slowly, three times
within 10 seconds.
3. Without pushing the brake pedal, push and release the
ENGINE START/STOP button once to return the
ignition to the OFF/LOCK position.
NOTE: If the indicator message illuminates when you
start the vehicle, the oil change indicator system did not
reset. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

27. Remove jack stands from under the vehicle.

28. Check oil level again after sitting overnight.
Do you have to prime prior to starting? Like cycling the key?

Also do you have a procedure for the fuel filter?
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:25 PM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by definn12 View Post
Do you have to prime prior to starting? Like cycling the key?

Also do you have a procedure for the fuel filter?
I haven't done the fuel filter yet. I ran out of time on Sunday (started late) to drain the moisture from the fuel filter. I'm still undecided whether I want to do the filter at 30K miles like the manual states or at 20K. I understand the RAM 1500 guys have been advised to do them at 20K. I think there was a TSB or something, but I haven't tracked it closely.

You do have to prime it after changing the fuel filter. You probably don't need to prime it if you just checked the drain for moisture unless you drained the entire filter volume.

Priming the fuel system after a filter change is pretty simple. With the foot off the brake, push the start button to the "On" (not accessory) position. Wait 30 seconds. Turn it off. Repeat two more times. By all accounts, it will fire right up after that.

I picked this info up from various threads and some youtube videos. The youtube videos are mainly from RAM 1500 guys, but it's a very similar system, though different fuel filter housing and filters.
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:41 PM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Regarding changing the fuel filter it will start then die. Minimum cranking after leaving the fuel pump in the tank on and done. Filters are easy to change and you will loose about 10 oz of diesel. Did mine during my last oil filter change 27,000 miles...


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Old 01-06-2016, 09:13 AM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
Regarding changing the fuel filter it will start then die. Minimum cranking after leaving the fuel pump in the tank on and done. Filters are easy to change and you will loose about 10 oz of diesel. Did mine during my last oil filter change 27,000 miles...


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If you do it like Akinney says.. it will start right up. I changed mine at 24K and they needed it. Glad I didn't wait any longer.... was not difficult and didn't even have to raise it up. There have been good videos posted showing step by step. No reason to pay someone to do this, but the filters are not cheap !
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Old 01-07-2016, 08:16 PM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Did anyone have a skid plate covering their fuel filters? I've read to remove a transfer case skid plate but my 2014 limited did not have a skid plate.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:32 AM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

DO you mind posting your fuel filter procedure, if you have done it of course.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:58 PM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

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Originally Posted by hehateme2812 View Post
DO you mind posting your fuel filter procedure, if you have done it of course.
Haven't done it yet. I have 10K miles on my Jeep and fuel filters will get done at 20K miles or about this time next year.
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Old 02-22-2016, 05:05 PM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Quote:
clean DEF injector and orafice in exhaust
I'm going to change this one to once every 10yr/100K miles. If you drive mostly city (I'm mostly highway), you may want to do it more frequently.

This guy's injector had 140K miles on it to get the kind of build-up shown. From watching his other videos, he has lots of idle time, so he probably uses a little more DEF than mine. https://youtu.be/Yie_4AdDp7I
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:23 PM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Here is a youtube of changing the filter.

This one some Mensa candidate put DEF in the fuel.
It is pretty easy to change and mine were actually fine but I follow the manual in case there is a warranty issue...
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Old 02-24-2016, 08:36 AM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

what about cleaning the egr?
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:41 AM
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Re: My DIY EcoDiesel maintenance list and tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by hehateme2812 View Post
what about cleaning the egr?
I'm not convinced it is necessary. I've seen tubes cleaned at 10K miles and 60K miles that had virtually the same amount of buildup. I've never seen a clogged EGR tube on this engine. I suspect it builds up to a point and pressure, flow, and temperature prevent it from getting any worse.

I don't like EGR dumping soot into the intake, but I don't see how cleaning the EGR tube helps that.
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Deep Cherry Red 2015 JGC Ltd EcoDiesel with Beige Interior / ORA II / Lux II / 8.4AN
Mods: DEF injector guard | Mopar splash guards | Green Hornet fuel cap | Fumoto F-106 oil drain valve | aFe Pro Guard 7 engine air filter | Mopar molded running boards | Mopar roof rack cross bars | Mopar rear cargo net | Mopar rear cargo liner | Husky X-Act Contour floor liners | Mopar "Rugged Off-Road" Black & Machined 18x8 wheels
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