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Old 12-13-2015, 10:20 PM
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Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

I'm doing my own maintenance and I'm coming up on the first oil change.

In addition to the standard items in the manual and the diesel supplement manual, what other maintenance are you guys doing?

Here's what I've seen others mention:
  1. Clean DEF injector and orafice in exhaust with every oil change.
  2. Clean EGR diffuser. I've seen some done at 60K miles and others done after only 8K miles. They looked about the same, so I'm not sure about the interval or if it's even needed.
  3. Change transmission fluid and filter. Does every 50K miles or 5 years sound about right?
  4. Rustoleum the off-road protection plates and other exposed metal under the vehicle. As needed after the first time?

I plan to keep my vehicle a long time, so this is mostly about reliability and longevity.

What do you all think?

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Old 12-14-2015, 10:51 PM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

The only one I will be doing in that group is a drain and fill at 50k with Lifeguard 8. I see no need to do anything but that.


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Old 12-23-2015, 08:31 PM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

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Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
The only one I will be doing in that group is a drain and fill at 50k with Lifeguard 8. I see no need to do anything but that.


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Keep in mind the transmission doesn't have a serviceable filter, it's built into the pan itself and cost like $300.00+ for the pan with new filter.
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Old 12-24-2015, 04:36 AM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

Transmission fluid change will be done at 50K. Will do motor oil 5K to 6K. DEF injector not going to worry about, mostly distilled water, being smog related has long warranty. Been maintenance nut on all my new cars. Change transfer case, front and rear Diff every 50K also.
Sold my last 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 limited with 205K miles. Ran like new no leaks
Love my Diesel over 10 mpg than my 2001, and great power
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Old 12-24-2015, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetskifast View Post
Transmission fluid change will be done at 50K. Will do motor oil 5K to 6K. DEF injector not going to worry about, mostly distilled water, being smog related has long warranty. Been maintenance nut on all my new cars. Change transfer case, front and rear Diff every 50K also.
Sold my last 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 limited with 205K miles. Ran like new no leaks
Love my Diesel over 10 mpg than my 2001, and great power
Why are you doing an oil change at 5/6k miles? Multiple people have had their oil tested at 10k miles and its been good for at least another 2k. It just seems like a waste of money to change the oil before ten. Only way I could see justifying premature oil changes is if you're racing it hard.
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Old 12-24-2015, 03:08 PM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

Quote:
Originally Posted by definn12 View Post
Why are you doing an oil change at 5/6k miles? Multiple people have had their oil tested at 10k miles and its been good for at least another 2k. It just seems like a waste of money to change the oil before ten. Only way I could see justifying premature oil changes is if you're racing it hard.
Probably the same reason people buy extended warranties. Cheap insurance and peace of mind. There's not really anything wrong with it. Some people "waste" money on the fuel for the low hemi MPG, but they don't see it that way!

I'm doing my oil changes at 10K miles / 1 year. Just coming up on my first now and I will be getting an oil analysis on every change.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:32 AM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

You do a drain and refill on the transmission at 50k miles transmission pan is good for well past 150k miles doing this. I have a great deal of experience with ZF transmissions and they are bulletproof if you change the Lifeguard 8 at recommend intervals...


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Old 12-25-2015, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
You do a drain and refill on the transmission at 50k miles transmission pan is good for well past 150k miles doing this. I have a great deal of experience with ZF transmissions and they are bulletproof if you change the Lifeguard 8 at recommend intervals...

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Is the recommendation to change the fluid every 50k?
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:32 AM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

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Originally Posted by akinney View Post
Probably the same reason people buy extended warranties. Cheap insurance and peace of mind. There's not really anything wrong with it. Some people "waste" money on the fuel for the low hemi MPG, but they don't see it that way!

I'm doing my oil changes at 10K miles / 1 year. Just coming up on my first now and I will be getting an oil analysis on every change.
Buy my cars new, keep them 10 plus years. Many do not agree but change my motor oil on new cars first 1500 miles. after that synthetic oil 5 to 6 K miles. Transmission fluid 50K and rear and front gear box and transfer case 50K. Over my lifetime , age 54 now, purchased many new cars. Never had motor, transmission, transfer case, rear or front end gear box go out or leak on me. Call me lucky? Sold most of cars at 175K miles, ran perfect.
Matter of fact traded in my 2001 Grand Cherokee limited 4.7 with 205K miles on my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel. 2001 everything worked except heated seats.
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Old 12-27-2015, 05:38 PM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

ZF recommends 50K miles 80KMS for almost all their current transmissions, Be aware that ZF and the manufacturers do not agree on the change interval. For example BMW on the 6 spd autos stated life time fill no changed needed. Two years ago changed to 100K miles. All along ZF stated 50K miles or 80KMS. I stick with the company that built the transmission.
The drain and refill is about the easiest maintenance you can do to prolong your tranny life. ZF refill isn't what you normally do as they wish you to have the engine running transmission fluid between 80-120F and fill the weep hole until it leaks out again engine running. Done...
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:01 PM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

At 30k I had the following done at the dealer.

Road Force Wheel Balance
Wheel Alignment
Rear diff fluid changed
Cabin air filter

Tires are at 45k now still quiet at 50% tread, think I can get another year out of them.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:23 PM
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Re: Non-book maintenance for the EcoDiesel

Quote:
Originally Posted by fun2drive View Post
ZF recommends 50K miles 80KMS for almost all their current transmissions, Be aware that ZF and the manufacturers do not agree on the change interval. For example BMW on the 6 spd autos stated life time fill no changed needed. Two years ago changed to 100K miles. All along ZF stated 50K miles or 80KMS. I stick with the company that built the transmission.
The drain and refill is about the easiest maintenance you can do to prolong your tranny life. ZF refill isn't what you normally do as they wish you to have the engine running transmission fluid between 80-120F and fill the weep hole until it leaks out again engine running. Done...
I have always done regular trans fluid changes on past cars myself and I think this is typically a very neglected area with many people. I don't believe in fill for life anything if you plan to keep the vehicle for a long time. the cost on a fluid and pan filter of this one is a bit much compared to the $75 dollar drain and fills I have been used to in the past in my drive way. I have worked on several different types of transmissions but ZF has never been one of them. a few questions as you are experienced with them

1. are all 8HP70 trans filterpans going to be the same weather its from a BMW or a jeep or a Jaguar? is it a standard issue pan from ZF that manufacturers just stamp their own part number on and call it theirs? Kind of like Chrysler charges $45 a quart for their 8spd ZF fluid but you can buy a case of ZF Lifeguard 8 at $17 a quart and its the exact same identical stuff?
Is a pan kit like this in link going to be the identical same thing? or is that a negative and go with the mopar spec number?
Oil change kit for BMW 8HP45/70

2. Is it better to do the whole full pan/filter change the first time at 50-60k due to the new car breaking in and potentially more wear metals filling the magnets and in the filter and then drain and fill after that. or just drain fill first and panfilter at 100k? id tend to want to do the panfilter at the 60k mark and then drain fill next time. yay or nay or what is best?

3. if drain and fill only can you just measure what you take out and put the exact amount right back in making the assumption that the factory fill level was correct. rather than trying to going through a check with it running which is fine on a lift but not something I want to do as much in a home garage.

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