Re: Towing Review//Engine Heat
This whole discussion rings of a conversation I had with the makers of the motorcycles I ride. They added a system voltage monitor to the instrument cluster, and people were freaking out about how the V dropped at idle. "Too much information at the customers hands is NOT always a good thing".
Basically...if the light doesn't come on...don't worry about it.
Sure, we're seeing higher temps than we're used to. But speaking from personal experience...I'm "used to" seeing the temps that my '72 Satellite will run, or my 220k mile '01 Cummins will run. New engines, and new fluids, have much higher tolerances and specs than the older ones. And don't forget this engine requires a SPECIFIC oil - probably...for a reason.
Yes, EGT is the concern for a diesel when towing. I have boost and EGT gauges in my Cummins (it's a stick so no use for trans temp). It's a six speed. When towing (I work for an RV dealer so it happens a lot) I will downshift from 6 to 5 for even the slightest grade. Not only does it keep me from losing MPH, but it knocks a few hundred degrees off my EGTs. In automatic-speak....take it out of Eco, or put it in Sport. More RPM will equal more airflow through the engine, more coolant flow through the engine, more oil flow through the engine...and lower EGT's. Sure, lower RPM means better MPG...but for a couple bucks in fuel, I'd rather take better care of my engine internals. And to clarify a statement made earlier in the thread - more fuel flow equals LOWER EGT's. Fuel is a "coolant", if you will, and engines run hot when they run lean. In racing-speak - "lean is mean"...but you can melt important things like valves or pistons if you're too lean and too hot. Goose it and throw some more fuel at it, and it'll cool it off a bit.
Remember - our VM Motori's are high tech. Cooling oil jets spray the underside of the pistons. The rods are cracked-iron design with angled cap seams for clearance, because they're so beefy and wouldn't fit with a standard 90 degree seam. The mains aren't individual, but girdled...and they're still four-bolt design. The oil sump pickup tube is the same size as a Duramax tube. This is a pretty serious motor.
If it were me towing with one (I have the Cummins, so that gets my "drag something heavy" work), I'd slap it in S mode and go. If the warning light doesn't come on...don't sweat it. And, follow your "severe duty" oil change schedule.
And any time you work it hard...MAKE SURE YOU IDLE IT FOR 90 SECONDS BEFORE TURNING IT OFF. That circulates cooling oil and coolant through the turbocharger, and keeps it from "coking" into dry carbon and ruining your turbo.
'14 WK2 Summit EcoDiesel
'01 Ram 2500 QCLB Cummins 6spd 4x4, '92 XJ 4.0/auto, '92 YJ 4.0/stick, 91 Daytona CS/AGS, original owner, 89 Shelby CSX-VNT #135, 87 Shelby CSX #133, 86 Shelby GLHS #499...and 7 Buell motorcycles from 1995-2009