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Mopar vs 4xGuard Skid Plates?

8K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  Lucas J 
#1 ·
Brand new to Jeepin, and I'm looking to make my it more off-road worthy a little at a time. Don't plan on doing anything TOO crazy, but I'd rather be over-armored than under-armored for when I do decide to take it on trails and such. With that said, I was doing some research and came across 4xguard's plates. Just wondering, are these to be used instead of the mopar ones, or in concert with them? If it's supposed to be one vs. the other, which should I go for and is the difference worth the difference in price? I'm also planning on getting either a RRO 2.25" or RC 2" lift as well (haven't decided if the 1/4" is worth the extra $60)
 
#2 · (Edited)
The 4xguard skid plates would be used with your stock skids, NOT in place of. If your stock skids aren't rusted out, I wouldn't worry too much about them. If they are, you can always get replacements. There are some other companies that make skid plates for our jeeps, but 4xguard is one company most of us go with. I have 4xguards front, rear, and belly skid plates on my jeep. They have so far worked out great for me! The product is excellent for the price. It's also nice knowing you have the extra protection there when needed. Others have added the diff guard as well which is an upgrade I plan to do in the near future. Install on the skids is pretty simple, either bolt on or just a few drilled out holes.

I was looking into both the RRO and the RC lifts before I got my OME lift. If I were you I would go with the RC over the RRO. It's rock solid for the price. I would upgrade to some Bilstein struts and Monroe load leveler shocks at the same time, that way you get a little better ride and stability with your stock coils. Also you won't have to worry about replacing the stock hardware later down the road if it gives out. Might as well kill 2 birds with one stone right?
 
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#3 · (Edited)
i think i got a road version or something because the only plate-looking thing i saw when i was under it changing the oil was a hard plastic/fiberglass panel that i removed to loosen the oil tank plug. It didn't look/feel like I imagine a steel skid plate should look like.

also, how much extra would the bilstein struts/shocks run me and where's the best place to get them? any vendors on here?

thanks for taking the time to answer - where's that post-thank-you button...?
 
#4 ·
Yeah thats typical. I've never really ran into a problem with hitting it though, usually clearance is pretty good in that area. The 4xguard belly skid would be good added protection for your cats and exhaust system that elbows off right after the front skid you're talking about.

The Bilstein struts would be somewhere in the ballpark of 180-200 for the pair and the Monroe Load Leveler shocks would be another 80-100 for the pair. So about 300 extra total in cost. You could do this afterwards, but since you have to take the whole front assembly apart anyway to install the RC lift, might as well do it at the same time. It saves you time or labor costs if you're having the lift installed by someone else.
 
#6 ·
Yeah you should be able to put a couple spring compressors on the stock struts to take them apart fairly easy. It's a pretty simple process overall. I'm sure someone even has a how-to on it, you could probably do a search for it. The cost of everything is a bit much to think about at first, but it's better to do it right the first time then wait and have to fix or add things later on.
 
#7 · (Edited)
#8 · (Edited)
It depends on the package originally ordered with the vehicle. Most have at least the fuel tank skid on their vehicle. The other 2 steel skids would be an add on possibly. The plastic piece you have now is a transfer case belly ban. It came standard on our WK's. You could replace that with the front steel skid, and check underneath to see if you have the transfer case skid, if not order that too. Those skids would work in conjunction with the 4xguard skids. Giving you the most protection from front to rear without adding rock sliders.

The Bilstein struts would be for the front. You would need the Bilstein HD (part# BSN-24-029636) I believe. The Monroe load leveler shocks would be for the rear you would want the the f150 version (part# 58643). You will need to add a few washers on the sides of the shock mount to make them fit right in our stock housing, but they will give some added lift to the rear keeping the stock rake look. Many have used this shock with great results. It will stiffen the ride up but in a good way, it will get rid of that floaty feel you probably have now.

You always need an alignment if you do anything to the suspension. So yes, you will need it done after you're finished installing the lift. If you're planning to keep your stock wheels and run a bigger tire, I would suggest getting hub centric wheel spacers like the spidertrax 1.5" or a good set off ebay (cheaper version). That way you don't have to worry about rubbing issues with your new tires. With that, you might need the pinch weld mod depending on the size tire. There is a VERY good how-to for it on jeepsunlimited forum. You will need it front and rear if you plan to off-road it at all. It's a pretty simple process, you just have to cut slices into the pinch weld and hammer it flat with a 3 pound sledge. That way it keeps its rigidity. Then you can modify the wheel well liner to match.

Here's a link to the pinch weld mod:
Pinch Weld 'How To' - JeepsUnlimited.com Forums

Installing a lift usually will take you about a full weekend to do with some help from a friend. It's a lot to think about at first, but once you get into it, it's really not that bad at all. If you have any further questions feel free to ask.
 
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#10 · (Edited)
No, I think you were right with the Bilstein 4600 is the one you want. I copied over the wrong part number from a different site. The F-150 shocks are correct. Can someone else please confirm that the 4600 is the correct one?
 
#11 · (Edited)
If you are going to run a RC lift, those shocks are correct. The LLS will raise the rear another ~1.0in. Which looks better IMO.

If your running a poly spacer lift. Longer front shocks are required. It was a mofo to put in the bilsteins with my daystar lift.
 
#13 · (Edited)
LOL. It's like my dad always said "It's nothing a few thousand dollars can't fix". I promise you are not alone. I have spent more money on extra's for this jeep than any other car I've owned. But I love it and wouldn't have done it any other way. I get stopped all the time from people asking me questions about it. Our WK's are something you don't see everyday lifted, at least in my area. It feels pretty good to have something unique. It's definitely worth the extra cost to make it right. If you want to know all the options your jeep came with stock you can do a free vin check, I've done it on all my vehicles. Here's a website that works pretty good: (Comprehensive Chevrolet, Saturn, GMC, Hummer, Cadillac, Buick, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Geo, Dodge, Plymouth, Jeep, Chrysler, Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda Truck, Mercedes VIN Decoder)
 
#14 ·
I hear ya. Yeah I've already registered it with Jeep/Mopar at that little site they have that tells me what I have stock and helps me keep up with maintenance. It's an uphill battle, but one I'm willing to fight.

I already had to replace those stupid, useless flat plastic slats that came on the roof with an actual luggage rack (looking to put on a basket in time), put in the heavy gauge wire mesh grill mod to replace THOSE stupid plastic slats, and today I learned I got the model with QT-1 rather than the QT-2 transfer system. The pitfalls of buying used vehicles, i guess. But where's the fun if there's no elbow grease to appreciate?

I just wish I could replace the cash I need to buy/apply these mods with the work I'm willing to put into it. Hard to save money for fun/mods when my allotted vet school loan (jeez it's expensive) is my sole income.
 
#15 ·
Well said man. I'm in school myself. Well out right now to save up for the rest. Bills and other expenses always seem to get in the way. But when I work hard I also play hard. Started out with a lot of smaller mods and worked/saved my way up to the bigger ones. I still have a lot more planned for it, I guess once the mod bug hits you it never really stops lol. I always see things I can change or fix. The good thing is that there are so many options and relative parts to choose from for our vehicles. It's nice knowing we have the option to change whatever we want and make it our own.

And if you're looking into a roof rack after your lift, Rola is the one I chose. It's really inexpensive (150 bucks) and is a great solid 2 piece rack! A lot of good reviews on here about it.
 
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