Posted this a while back on JU, just thought it may come in useful to people here too.
Rock Krawler 3.5'' X Factor Lift Kit (WK)
Well this was my first big project. I'm learning as I go. I've never taken any auto-tech classes so forgive me if I use the wrong terms. I am just going to explain the way I did things, I might have done a few useless things but it's better to mention it all than to leave something helpful out.
I spent a LOT of time trying to research the RK 3.5'' WK install but was able to find very little and the directions included with the kit are not very clear. Hope this guide is makes it easier for everyone else!
Jack - I bought a 6 -ton bottle jack at Home Depot for $27 or so. Works great.
Jack Stands - Again, $27 or so from Home Depot. 2 3-ton stands.
Torque Wrench - $25 from Walmart. Mine's like 2 feet long and allows plenty of leverage to start rusted bolts.
Deep Socket Set - Helpful in oddly placed areas and was necessary to remove my wheels (I don't have stock). A standard full socket set is required as well.
Wrench - Found a nice slide-lock crescent wrench at Home Depot for like $13. No more twisting the knob back and forth every 10 seconds, just slide the tab and it locks itself.
Spring Compressors - Autozone lends them out for free ($50 to borrow, $50 back when you return them). These are not the best because they can slide together (nearly lost my thumb when they finally did snap together) but they can get the job done.
Rust Remover - one bottle should do. I had bad rust as the previous owner was in the north by the sea. Road salt+sea salt=rust!
Hammer - a few different uses.
Pliers - optional, may be used to pull off tabs.
Rear Coil Spacers
These are relatively simple (hell, if I can do it with little to know knowledge, any one can).
1.) Start by pulling your Jeep to a level area. Put on the parking break and stick blocks (or any convenient objects) under 3 other tires. I used a shovel and a 2x4.
2.) Loosen the bolts on the wheel you plan to start with just a turn or two.
3.) Place the jack under the rear axle. Be sure it's centered so it doesn't tip under pressure.
4.) Slowly raise it until the tire is off the ground. Raise it a little higher now and place the jack stands underneath on a level part of the frame.
5.) Lower the jack back down to where the weight is on the jack stands and the tire is barely off the ground.
6.) Remove the bolts on the tire and pull it off.
7.) Remove the sway bar by taking out the upper bolt. It should not be under much pressure at this point but if you feel it pushing, slightly raise or lower the axle using the jack to take off the stress. When you remove the bolt the control arm will swing to its resting position and the force behind it is dangerous if not done correctly.
8.) Once the bar is disconnected, let the jack slowly lower the axle. Keep an eye on the stands. If they begin to lean, lift the axle back up and reposition the stands.
9.) Allow the axle to lower as far as your sanity allows you. I heard creaking from the stands when I got about 3-4 inches off the ground and decided not to test my luck and worked with what space I had.
10.) Remove the stock shock (you should probably have aftermarket shocks). Taking out the bottom bolt first makes this much easier.
11.) Check your jack stands. If the Jeep is unstable, replace the shock, lift the axle, and reset the stands.
12.) Once stable, put the compressors on. Compressed coil springs have an incredible level of potential energy, held back only by the compressors. Take extreme care to stay safe when working on the springs as they are DANGEROUS!!! Use only the proper tools and DO NOT BE ROUGH or they may shoot out of the compressors! Now, assuming that you are working on the left rear side with the Autozone compressors, there should be a corner in the frame just above the coil spring at the right. Turn one upside down (bolt end down), clamping as much of the spring as possible. The end of the bolt should fit in the space where the frame corners. On the left side you will want to clamp the compressor on right side up (bolt up) with the end of the bolt aimed down to an open area (I shot mine between the axel and the smaller bar to the right).
13.) Tighten the compressors evenly, not one all the way then the other but both progressively as you go. The wrench may come in useful if the coils come too close together to fit the socket. Continue tightening the compressors until the spring can slide out. The bolts can create a puzzle out of removing the spring. Shifting it around to different positions until you find one that works just takes the guess and check method.
14.) Once the spring is out, compress it as much as possible (well, not alllll the way, but as much as you can) because the smaller it is, the easier it will be to put it back in on top of the spacer.
15.) The directions said to place the spacer in and to put the spring back on top of it. I found it easier to put the spring (still compressed) back in and to squeeze the spacer in underneath it. You may need to compress the spring even more, that's a big space you need to create. Wedge the spacer into place and loosen up the compressors. Watch you hands! This is where they slammed together on me. The second time around I stuffed my foot up against them as I pulled to keep them from sliding.
16.) Once the springs back in place and the compressors are removed you can put the new shocks on. Top bolt first, making sure to get it all the way through to the receiving end. Then bottom bolt (having an extra set of hands is helpful but not required). Then tighten both bolts.
17.) Using the jack, lift the axle back up high enough to get the sway bar back into place. Tighten that well.
18.) Move the axle into position to where you can put the wheel back on. Twist the bolts into place, remove the jack stands, lower the Jeep, and you're 1/4th of the way there!
Mirror the same steps on the opposite side.