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Thinking about building a ridiculous WK2 on 35's.... Thoughts?

45K views 32 replies 20 participants last post by  Trail Tank 
#1 ·
Ok, Jeep did it. They put a diesel and an 8 speed and now I'm curious.

I've built a Cherokee with my dad and I am currently working on my 2nd FJ40, but the CRD WK2 has made me think: What if?

If it would work I could do both my wheeling and daily driving/baby hauling in one truck getting good fuel mileage.


Wk2 guys please read below and chime in!!!!!

I would start with a CRD with the quadradrive/quadralift. I would put some
spacers, 17" Rubicon wheels then fit some 35x10.50 (not much wider than stock) super swamper SSR's which is a live able tire to drive on. If I took it to a body shop is there room to clearance out the wheelwells and roll them back so a 35 could stuff up in there when in the high speed mode?

My next question is gears. Obviously there are none besides what comes in there. Could I get ahold of the 3.7:1 SRT8 rear with the ELSD and plug it in? Would it cause the same issues that it does with the JKs where you have to reprogram it for the new gears? Same with the front? Anyone know? If not anyone running a big tire with the 3.45 gears and big tires and the 8 speed? Or better yet an 8 Speed CRD? How does the whole 4x4 system actually perform? Does the single elsd rear and brake controlled front actually work? If I picked one of these up I don't want to count on ARB to come out with lockers for it.

Lastly lets say I could put this thing together. Would I be able to wheel the snot out of this thing and have it survive the Rubicons and Moabs of the world? Anyone jammed some knobby tires on one of these things and REALLY pushed it? I know it won't be a JK or my FJ40 but it might be cool and a different take on a 4x4.

I don't want a Jk, boring. I love my old trucks, but a factory warrantied 4x4 that gets 25+ MPG and still gets over my favorite trails without exploding would be AWESOME.

I work for a well known 4x4 shop and have a good relationship with a Jeep dealer, I would make sure it's armored up for the trail. Maybe SEMA? Who knows? Anyone who I've chatted with so far either thinks I'm insane or has no
clue, and I don't know anyone with a WK2 who would let me really dig around in their truck to see if any of these ideas would fly.

I figure this might at least spawn a cool discussion, hope to get one going! And by the way I know this isn't an orthodox idea on an IFS/IRS 4x4, I know the concerns, so any s**t talkers and naysayers need not jump in, I'm looking for ideas. If I get enough it's time to take a peeky at a WK2, make some phone calls, do a little more research and talk to the wife. Hopefully me and my FJ40
could forgive me for selling it....
 
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#3 ·
Yeah I haven't seen any 35's. I was thinking BFG makes a 255/80/17 Mud Terrain which might be enough tire.

In the end the question is how well it would work in the real world. Not a lot of info out there on really offloading these things. A couple
videos on YouTube of some guy on 32's but I think the truck is a base model and doesn't seem to do that well.

Just looking for feedback.
 
#4 · (Edited)
#31 · (Edited)
Bit50,

Just wondering, I have been eyeing the 7036 pro comps for a while and wanted to know how large of a tire/wheel can I fit on the ride before rubbing starts on my truck? I have a 2013 e group.

Also, I don't have a lift and most likely won't get one. Just trying to fill the wheel wells as much as possible with a meatier tire/rim combo
 
#5 ·
I'm running 33"s currently, I tried stacking the Tuff Country lift kit with the RRO to get 4" of lift in front but the geometry was too steep on the driveline and caused vibes and clicking sounds when my mechanic took it out they removed it right after. It's definitely possible to fit 35" might have to trim up front to make it work.
 
#6 · (Edited)
35" are pretty large even for a full size pick up truck. You will lose power as the larger tires decrease torque, lose braking power for the same reason, beat up your suspension as the larger tires and wheels will weight much more than stock--35" Super Swampers will weight around 75 pounds compared to about 45 pounds for factory sized tires. You will not get 25+ mpg as the engine has to work so much harder to turn the wheels--you may be able to change out the rear diff gears to compensate, but you'll have to turn the engine faster to retain close to the same torque---

I highly doubt even a good friendly dealer will fix breakages rresulting form such a drastic change in the vehicle's condition and intended usage. They have to answet to Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge and how will they explain driveline breakage from rock crawling using 35" tires and lift kits as factory defects?

Let's not forget driveline vibratiosn from trying to force such an acute angle in the proposed tire size. I'd owned a 4x4 Ram diesel 3/4 ton long enough to know that I left it fairly stock becasue everyone who messed with their truck ended up with one problem after another. Super Swampers are not known for being road friendly. Swampers are built for mud boggers and they well, but noise, vibration, harshness, are not their concern.

If you have deep pockets, then go for it. However, buying a new $48-$50 WK2 diesel to be used for your intended puroses will not be cheap or very practical or feel very good as a daily driver. And pay for your own mistakes as no factory warranty will cover you.

As we used to say when big diesel folks chip their engines then complain about blown headgaskets or destroying the ECM/TCM modules or experience the death wobbles from over sized tires or drive line issue, YOU PAY TO PLAY.

Good luck.

Aha! Just fond this......http://www.allpar.com/cars/concepts/jeep/moab-2013/1-trailhawk.html

Jeep just might build this with diesel and 35" tires....and factory made and designed to run with 35" tires and because this is factory, it is factory warranteed. Alas, this is a concept and not production yet.
 
#7 ·
I've managed to run 35's and 37's on a lot of wacky stuff, that being said they all had aftermarket gear sets available and the only IFS I've payed with that can hang is from Toyota.

There are two huge drawbacks to this, lack of available gears and I just found out the CRD isn't covered by the lifetime warranty.

Interestingly enough jeep dealers usually don't blink an eye when they see a lift 4" or under and usually have no issues covering them under the terms of the factory warranty. I'm very friendly with a local dealer and a JK wouldn't be an issue, a WK2 hasn't been discussed.

Super Swamper SSRs are radials and are live able on the street, I've run them. I'd rather go with a BFG or something a little more mellow but no one makes a narrow 35 anymore. As for weight, dudes throw 22's on their SRT8's and trash them, not really seeing a lot of stories about diffs exploding.

I don't know how this thing would hold up to 35's, and like I said this is all a hypothetical discussion until I find a way to really pull it off.

My intent would be to utilize the stock quadralift system. I don't want to lift it past its intended geometry because of the afforemmentioned vibrations and stresses on the CV's. Because this truck is so complicated I would want to keep it as stock as possible.

No gears, and no warranty on the CRD is certainly a set back. As for beating on a $40k truck that's exactly what everyone does with their Rubicons, why should a grand Cherokee be off the hook?
 
#8 ·
With 35" tires, I doubt you'll see 25mpg in the CRD. And then there's the question of how he unproven 8 speed will react to it.

If you're intending to use QL, I think you're going about it in the wrong way. QL defaults to settings that lower the vehicle too, and you're not going to fit 35" tires with it lowering itself, or even at stock height. And since you can't force it to stay in OR1 or OR2 (it will automatically lower itself from these once it reaches certain speed thresholds that are relatively low), you'll end up rubbing majorly.

If you were to do it, a steel spring truck would be the way to start.
 
#11 ·
The QL controller has not been hacked yet, so that will limit what you can do. A flexible option would be to start with a non QL vehicle, then use the air spings and front struts, with aftermarket compressors and controllers.

The next cool item would be to use an electric sway bar disconnect like the JKs, that would really address the articulation issues these have with their stiff sway bars.

Great idea to use the srt8 diffs for the gearing.
 
#13 ·
AEV tricked the QL system to ride at its highest setting. Thing is when you're talking about changing the street ride height you're putting the thing closer to max down travel. I'd consider a coil sprung truck if I knew that someone (I'm looking to you, OME!) would make replacement springs and shocks that would give it a couple inches. I'm not into spacers.

I thought the SRT8 gears were a good idea, thing is if it's anything like the 2012+ JK's you gotta reprogram the computer when you change the gears or it goes into limp mode. Doubt the Procal module will be compatible with the WK2.
Then what's up with this ELSD? It sounds like it might not be possible to just toss one into a non QTII truck, and doesn't the two speed case only come with the QTII system? Haha I've even toyed with just building new third members so I can put gears and lockers in the thing! I've got a Dana 30 with a truetrac and 4.56 gears that I could cut down.... If I was made of money I'd
simply have dynatrac build a set of D60 third members, have RCV build the CV's then just do what webspoke was talking about and trick the QL system, cut the down travel bumpstops off and go! In the end my goal of using as much OE parts as possible looks like it just might not be feasible with what's available on the market. The point for me would be to keep the thing as close to stock as possible and keep the factory warranty alive. I wouldn't want to try and maintain something this complicated without that warranty. Sigh...
 
#14 ·
I got 34" to fit and that was with pretty decent modification of the wheel wells, including metal, in order to do 35" wheels you will have to lift at least 4 inches and at that point tere go your cv axles and the brake lines, if you start you will see your limits
 
#18 ·
I will have pics of underneath tmrw at work when i undercoat it, it rides the same as it was stock, like not really much changed except it got a little wobblier around turns like more top heavy for sure, an how would you claim you have 35's when u hold a tape measure and its 33, that case is doable for sure tho.

There is a metal ridge along the cabin side of the wells, you have to hammer that flat towards the center of the cabin. I had to use a pretty decent weighted hammer to get this as flat as i needed. It took a lot of work but the welds were still intact just bent the flap over, i need to cover it because doing so chipped the paint and i need to cover before rust begins
 
#21 ·
I'm thinking along similar lines as the original poster.

But I plan on going with an Overland CRD without Quadra Lift (which can be ordered if you avoid ORAII and order the Quadra Drive separate similar to how the Trailhawk II prototype was designed) and then...

...put on a mild lift and 33" tires on 17" Rubi wheels. Add back in the better aftermarket skid plates, front / rear tow hooks, and good rock rails.

I took a non lifted brand new 2012 JKU over the Rubicon with the stock 32" tires. Ripped off a fender, bent a tie rod, and crushed the rock rail on the right side. But the vehicle itself was fine. If I had 33" tires, the sluice might not have been so rough...

I'm thinking the Quadra Drive and 33" grippy tires with 17" wheels for good sidewalks might just work...
 
#24 ·
I'm really rooting for the Trailhawk II which was prototyped with 35" Mickey Thompsons.

But...

The reviewer said that the tires rubbed the wheel well at full steering lock and during minimal articulation.

To get the 35s on, they used a Sawzall to open up the fender area, and applied a modest spacer lift to the steel suspicion (no Quadra Lift here)...and the tires still rubbed.

Our best hope is for a factory tested meaty tire and lift considering steering linkages and strain in the CV boots / joint when you lift the carcass to high.
 
#25 ·
Just throwing this out there for a few people to look at... maybe ask some questions if you are really serious about going with 35's...

There is a company called AEV. They have a "guinea pig" WK2 that is currently rolling 35's... Do they think they will mass produce it?... No. It is an awesome chance to pick the brains of the people who made it happen?... Yes!
 
#29 ·
^
They even cut out the fenders & they still rubbed on certain turns.

I think if you did something like that you'd have to cut it out more & put on the Bushwacker fender flares.

Back to the Trailhawk II. They'll probably put on 33s as stock, kinda like the Rubicon- it'll also keep the MPGs better than with the 35s.
 
#30 ·
Alright well I have since learned this vehicle inside out, I test drove a WK2 at a dealer just to see what I was getting into (not a CRD, just a new Hemi with the 8 speed to get a feel for it, he didn't have any CRD's yet). As I had said, I have a good relationship with this dealer and picked his brain. He let me pour over a dealer order form, and here's what I found out: you can't get the ELSD without the air suspension, you can't get the ELSD and the air suspension without the Offroad II group, you can't get that with the diesel without it being a limited with the Luxury package and blah blah blah blah blah.... it snowballed into a $55,000 Jeep full of a bunch of crap I didn't want. He called Jeep to see if there was a way to make an exception and the answer was no.

What I did find:

Icon Vehicle Dynamics is making 2" coilovers and shocks (which was my plan after playing with the air suspension and deciding it was stupid).

There are enough skid plates and armor from Rocky Road to protect the truck enough to beat the crap out of it (I was still planning on flat bellying it at the shop).

I found out that Jeepin By Al might be looking for a WK2 test mule to develop a kit, someone should call them, I've installed one of their kits on a Liberty before and it was pretty cool.

If you're smart about where you cut you can use the Bushwacker flares to widen your wheel wells to easily accommodate 33's, maybe bigger but it will require you cutting the body A LOT. What you'll do is drill out the fake rivets in the flares and replace them with actual hardware, using that area as your mounting surface (I did it on a monster XJ I built, worked great) then cut the body along the line that arches over the wheel wells. It flattens nicely and you should be able to carefully cut it and roll the fenders upwards. You would then cut the Bushwaker flares a la Trailhawk II. With some creativity you should be able to push the fender liners up and around your cuts.

ARB hasn't even started developing air lockers and no one is sure about suspension.

And finally: WK2 SRT 8 3.7:1 gears should install in the same diffs and carrier as the 3.45:1 gears, no one had any answers as to weather that would freak out the TCS like it does on a JK without a Pro Cal Module.

I have decided the WK2 isn't for me, and it's not the platform or even the lack of aftermarket support. Jeep made it too hard to get the options I want. While the WK2 is definitely a more upscale vehicle than its predecessors, it's a Jeep and I should be able to get it without F-ing Tv's in the headrests, heated leather seats and a Nav system. I know I know, some crusty old jaded weirdo geezer is going to hop on this thread and start bitching "Well that's not what its for, get a Rubicon, I lack creativity and hate my life...." and I say shut up you! Keep your conformist propaganda to yourself!

I hope the Trailhawk II is cool and uses all this modern tech and a nice Diesel engine to get create a badass American 4x4 that gets decent fuel economy and burns cleanly at the pipe. I hope one of you guys picks up where I left off and builds a ridiculous WK2 on 35" tires, breaks in and repairs it doing something stupid on the Rubicon and sends me a picture!

I stumbled across a nice FZJ80 Land Cruiser for way less money than it should have been, I decided to buy that as a baby hauler/camping mobile keep my stinky FJ40 with me. In the end I'm a Toyota guy, a pre made in Mexico and America Toyota guy. A Jeep made in Toledo would have been nice, but I didn't want a Rubicon because my FJ40 is just more fun and so far has done a great job of pulling friends Jeep's out of holes after their axle parts broke.
 
#32 ·
Keegur

So I got the new tires on, I had to bang that pinch seam back flat like you talked about, I cut out a bunch of the inner fender because it sits out a bit with air behind it and was rubbing. now I only rub just before full lock.

wondering what else you ended up doing?

what did you do about the big open cavity rear of the wheel that is filled with that foam bag? I cut away the inner fender now the foam bag keeps trying to fall out.

I was thinking of bending up some thin steel to create a cover for it and securing it under the inner fender and finding a way to fasten it inside the wheel well ??
 
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