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3M window weld for diff bushings?

16K views 29 replies 11 participants last post by  Crashtown 
#1 ·
I'm gonna tackle the 3 diff bushing in the front end this weekend. Hope to cure my clunking. I know some guys have filled the gaps in the bushing with window weld. Can anybody speak from experience if this is a good idea or not? I know it will firm up the bushing but I don't want any additional vibes being caused by it. So has anybody had experience with filling their diff bushings and its success?
 
#2 ·
That's pretty interesting. I just read up a little online about it. Seems like alot of Subie and GTO owners use this trick with good results. First I've heard of it. So you just get a caulk gun and fill in the gaps. I'm assuming you just leave the diff in place?
 
#3 ·
You can, but I'm replacing the mount as well. I'm thinking if filling the gaps in the new mount with the window weld. That's where I heard about it first was the gto forums(got a built '04). Only thing I'm worried about is the transference of vibes with the added poly in the bushing.
 
#4 ·
I wouldn't think there would be any gaps after you install the bushings.

I have to do this in the near future as well. I've heard most people just pull the drive shaft and leave the half-shafts attached to the diff. Apparrently the diff will drop just enough to rotate it so you can get to all the bushings w/out removing the diff completely.

Anyone done this??
 
#5 ·
The diff will spin and the pinion will droop so you can tackle it in the vehicle. The bushings stock have a gap on either sides of the actual rubber attached to the eyelet. That's where you would put the window weld. I've heard of some guys on the SRT8 forums doing it as well. Haven't heard any feedback though.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Ive heard of the window weld. I used some epoxy on the front bracket bushing as it had some small cracks(at the time the part was back-ordered). I filled the crescent shaped holes in on both sides. Its been holding up very well!

I wouldn't do it to a isolator bushing that has been completely torn though.
 
#7 ·
Ive heard of the window weld. I used some epoxy on the front bracket bushing as it had some small cracks(at the time the part was back-ordered). I filled the crescent shaped holes in on both sides. Its been holding up very well!

I wouldn't do it to a isolator bushing that has been completely torn though.[/QUOTE

Are you talking about the front mount on the diff you epoxied? I have all three new bushings coming and plan on doing the window weld on the main pinion isolator bushing(the new one) as it is the one that takes the brunt of the torque. I def. Wouldn't use it on an old torn one. My main concern is that hopefully it won't be too stiff when cured and cause driveline vibrations to be felt while driving.
 
#9 ·
Yup got one of those spendy little buggers coming with the other two isolators. I figure if it vibes bad i can. always drill it out later.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I just did this to all three of my front diff bushings. It solved my front end vibration/noise/clunking issue. I brought mine to a transmission repair shop as 2 of the bushings had to be pressed in. Shop charged $260.00
 
#12 ·
The problem is that eventually those bushings will eventually wear out again. So that's why the window weld/epoxy idea was introduced to enhance their strength as to provide a permanent solution. I just only did one bushing with it but mrtosh will be doing all three.
 
#14 ·
I believe its poor design.



Here is a good picture I found of the bushing thats on the front bracket.

My theory is the bushings arent completely solid because of that the increased flexing caused over time causes them to crack. So a solution that has worked for people is fill in the gaps with window weld or epoxy to help beef them up a bit.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Just wrapped this job up yesterday. Here's some pics of the bushing filled and the old bushing. Worked great, no vibes or anything. Thank God for air tools. Air chisel especially. Don't laugh, I couldn't find my duct tape and had to use the gf's sweet zebra duct tape, Haha!



 
#18 ·
Just wrapped this job up yesterday. Here's some pics of the bushing filled and the old bushing. Worked great, no vibes or anything. Thank God for air tools. Air chisel especially. Don't laugh, I couldn't find my duct tape and had to use the gf's sweet zebra duct tape, Haha!
so, just so I'm clear on what you did...you air chiselled out the old bushing and then you filled a new bushing with 3m window weld and pressed the new bushing in once it dried?
 
#17 ·
Thank you! The poly is great, firmed it up but still allows for flex.
 
#21 ·
Suppose you could. Your jeep will have to be down for a day to let it cure. Also it'll be a bear to get to.
 
#23 ·
I have an SRT8 (08') and was told by the dealer that my front one (14 in the picture above) was ripped. I got up under there and checked it out, it's half torn on each side. I'm thinking I can probably inject some black window goop in there to fix it. Funny thing is, I have a chrystler extended service contract, and this isn't covered. There should be a TSB out for it or something.
 
#24 ·
VW used a similar design on their control arms for Golfs/Jettas. Mine lasted 160K Miles of driving like a jackass.

I always thought of injecting the gaps with a urethane or such, but new control arms cost me $29.
 
#25 ·
I just did a temp fix on this yesterday. I injected polyurethane into the voids without removing the diff. Like I said, temp fix but, no thud this morning when shifting out of park. I'm gonna order the bushings and replace them asap, but for now it's better and it confirms that they were bad.
 
#30 ·
How are these replacement bushings holding up? I have heard of some also failing prematurely. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the trouble.
 
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