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5.7L Hemi Problems?

134K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  mjatomic 
#1 ·
Hey fellas
I sold my JK last weekend and I have found a nice GC I would like to obtain

My question is, does the 5.7 Hemi have any significant problems I should worry about? (Besides the fuel consumption and the ridiculous 16 spark plugs)
I really want the get the hemi, and not a v6, so I won't be changing my mind on that. I tried searching for answers but kept finding arguments about how much mpg you lose and blah blah. That's understandable, the hemi is more thirsty.
I'm more worried about mechanical and electrical problems..

So is there anything I should look for when I go to test drive? Any recalls?
 
#2 ·
My question is, does the 5.7 Hemi have any significant problems I should worry about? (Besides the fuel consumption and the ridiculous 16 spark plugs)

I'm more worried about mechanical and electrical problems..

So is there anything I should look for when I go to test drive? Any recalls?
Why is 16 plugs ridiculous? Gotta have the right parts to make power!!

Find one well maintained with history and you should be fine. As far as mpg I'm currently averaging 18mpg which is not bad for the beast that it is..

regards,

Mike
 
#4 ·
My old 6cyl car took 12.. stupid, and yet heavenly german vehicles.
The one I was looking at just sold. Awesome.. If I didn't have bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all!
On the hunt again.

Again, I don't really care about mpg. It is what it is.
 
#8 ·
Very likely could be the front diff isolator mounts - this will often lead to a clunking being felt/heard when going between gears.

They are a pain to get at, a pain to press out, and are around $200 in parts alone (if I remember correctly).

I would have them check the condition of these bushings and replace them if need be before making an offer.
 
#9 ·
It is a PITA to replace the front diff isolator, and not cheap to have it done. Mine was done under extended warrantee. Listen for diff whining also, and drive it at all speeds, as that is another costly repair job. If it does not have full maintenance records from the previous owner, I would shop elsewhere to be honest, as proper maint. is critical on these, and costly. It might look great on the outside, but could have many issues mechanically, and cost a lot to remedy.
 
#11 ·
#14 ·
Great to see so many people helping.

I just bought an 05 Limited with the Hemi, can't wait to pick it up tomorrow!

I didnt notice any obvious issues or "clunks", but have a 30 day warranty. I will push it hard at different speeds, see if anything changes.

My first Jeep ever!!
 
#15 · (Edited)
Welcome to the forum and good luck with your new to you purchase. As said above, timely and proactive maintenance is key to avoiding costly and unnecessary repairs. I've had my 06 for over 7 years now and have not had any out of the normal, fair wear and tear problems at all. I also have a few power/economy boosting mods. (see signature) and give mine "liberal" exercise on a daily basis.....no soccer mom putting around town for me.

If I were you the very first thing I'd do is go through everything and make sure it is working as it should......maybe a complete (and then some) 100K inspection. Bring everything up to date so YOU KNOW the status of everything on the vehicle. Also, make note of all normal sounds, and engine/transmission/xfer case/differential operation so if there later becomes any deviation from them you'll know something is not normal. Investigate and repair BEFORE it becomes a real issue.

Also, come to these forums BEFORE you going running to the stealer or independent for troubleshooting or a fix. There are a lot of folks on the forums that have a lot of experience and knowledge on these things, and many have experienced almost any problem you can imagine.

Again, good luck with your new ride.
 
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#17 ·
If you don't have access to a shop or owner's manual, you can go to WKJeeps.com to find out some of the maintenance requirements. At a minimum here's what I'd do if I couldn't verify any previous maintenance:
--Change all oils/fluids/filters/friction modifiers with recommended items. If you do the work yourself, the parts will run you around $300-350.
--Have the front end checked and aligned....ball joints, isolator bushings, steering rack and half shaft boots.

--Make sure it has the orange Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) anti-freeze (should be mixed 50/50 with DISTILLED water. Pressure check the cooling system, including the cap to insure its integrity. At this time I'd also recommend changing to a 190* thermostat. Napa has them. Some run 180's but, IMO that's a little too low. Also, consider picking up a 15-17 lb. cap in lieu of the recommended 18 lb. cap. If the system is in good shape this will take some of the heat/pressure load off the cooling system and especially the plastic ended radiator. (This is the way I have both my Hemi vehicles set up.) If you change the coolant, flush the complete system before adding the new stuff. Be sure to follow the correct procedure when refilling the system to insure all air is out of the system. If it's not, you'll overheat.

--Check each spark plug wire resistance, end to end. Rule of thumb is no more than 10000 ohms per foot or ~30000 ohms for the approximately 3 foot long wires. FYI, a new wire will run ~12000-15000 ohms.

--Change the spark plugs. Use ONLY copper core plugs....no platinum or iridium. Champions or NGK's are the most commonly used. I prefer NGK. Be sure they're properly gapped AND torqued.

--Change the PCV Valve. It's highly likely that it's never been changed. Also, consider adding a catch can. The Hemi has the very worst crankcase ventilation system of any vehicle. You can verify this by checking the back side of the throttle body butterfly. If it's all gunked up and/or there is oil puddling in the intake plenum, definitely get a can.

--Have a muffler shop check for exhaust leaks, especially in front of the catalytic converters. Leaks here will cause poor fuel economy.

--Check the brakes, rotors and brake fluid condition. Change the brake fluid if it looks contaminated (it will be if it has over about 75K on it. If you do this, flush the old fluid out and rotate new fluid in, otherwise you'll have ABS problems.

There's a bunch of other stuff that can be done, but this will keep you going for a while. Of course you don't have to do it all at once, but do it ASAP.
 
#19 ·
Clear all codes first and see if they return in short order. If they do, there may be a real problem. If you can, also check for stored and historical codes to see if anything else may be going on but not active. Some newer and better code readers can even tell if codes have recently been cleared which may give you a clue that someone was maybe trying to hide something until the vehicle sold.

On the airbag light the first thing to do is check the seat tracks for anything obstructing or stuck in them. Also, make sure there is nothing under the seat and look see if there is anything "hanging" loose or disconnected under there. Also see if the light goes off when someone sits in the seat.

I've never had an issue with the brake system, but someone may chime in that has. In any case, get the codes and post them up. This may help give some clues, especially if you've cleared it and it has come right back on. If the brakes are actually not working correctly when you're driving, do not drive it until it is fixed. Is there any grinding or abnormal noises coming from any of the wheels, especially when applying the brakes? The first thing I'd do though is check the wheel speed sensors in each wheel well and the wiring to them. Make sure everything in the area (sensors and brakes) is relatively clean and not all mudded or gunked up. Also, check the brake switch for proper operation. I understand the some folks have this problem more in the cold/icy weather too, and it is sometimes hard to troubleshoot unless the problem is persistent. As I said, the DTC codes will possibly help.

Keep us posted on your progress.
 
#20 · (Edited)
If it's the airbag light in your picture that you are concerned about, that is the driver side (passenger is in the center console).

Same suggestions for a fix though (check wiring under seat, jiggle connections under to see if there is something loose, move seat all the way forward and back, etc). The wiring underneath is quite susceptible to damage, and with the easy entry feature and/or auto positioning the driver's seat may have a lot more movement and potential for problems.

Most of the time, the service electronic brake system warning is a result of a wheel speed sensor acting up, so again, the advice above is spot on as to what to do! Pulling the codes with a decent scanner should tell you which one is the culprit.

Welcome to the forum!
 
#21 · (Edited)
You guys are a Godsend! I've definitely come to the right place for help. :)

Thank you for taking the time to explain (in great detail) your experiences with WK's.

No grinding or noises coming from brakes. The truck runs great.

I'm going to follow these steps tomorrow and share the results. I hope its something simple, or back to the dealership I go.....an hour away. Ugh. Fun ride though. Lol

With that being said, I truly love this baby so far!
 
#22 · (Edited)
Update:

I moved my driver seat all the way forward and check for any damage or loose wires (in tact). So far the airbag light has not returned. :)

As for tbe codes I received from Autozone:

- Incorrect oil type

- Heat sensor

- Oil sensor circuit

Check engine is now on after Autozone code checking...and they do not clear codes for anyone. I just may purchase my own for future troubleshooting.

Also still getting the "Service Elec Brake System" and shows the ESP/BAT light on.

Does this mean it forces the SUV into 4x2?

Spoke with the owner of the dealership, asked me to bring it in on Monday (only day they have a loaner vehicle) to get it resolved. I'm glad it's still covered under the 30 day warranty.

I will post the results when I get it back next week.

One more question: Will I cause damage by driving it until Monday? It's my only vehicle, but will rent a car if it means saving the Jeep's engine.
 

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#23 ·
Hey fellas
I sold my JK last weekend and I have found a nice GC I would like to obtain
My question is, does the 5.7 Hemi have any significant problems I should worry about? (Besides the fuel consumption and the ridiculous 16 spark plugs)
I really want the get the hemi, and not a v6, so I won't be changing my mind on that. I tried searching for answers but kept finding arguments about how much mpg you lose and blah blah. That's understandable, the hemi is more thirsty.
I'm more worried about mechanical and electrical problems..

So is there anything I should look for when I go to test drive? Any recalls?
o have had one for 3 years, only replaced the starter and a coolant hose, but other than that, I highly recommend buying one. Also consider straight piping it, best decision I ever made, gave me another 37 horse.
 
#25 ·
o have had one for 3 years, only replaced the starter and a coolant hose, but other than that, I highly recommend buying one. Also consider straight piping it, best decision I ever made, gave me another 37 horse.
How do you know, did you dyno it before and after? What year, what engine, how many miles on it, and what other mods do your have?
 
#26 ·
Hey fellas
I sold my JK last weekend and I have found a nice GC I would like to obtain

My question is, does the 5.7 Hemi have any significant problems I should worry about? (Besides the fuel consumption and the ridiculous 16 spark plugs)
I really want the get the hemi, and not a v6, so I won't be changing my mind on that. I tried searching for answers but kept finding arguments about how much mpg you lose and blah blah. That's understandable, the hemi is more thirsty.
I'm more worried about mechanical and electrical problems..

So is there anything I should look for when I go to test drive? Any recalls?
The Hemi is the way way to go I got the 5.7 2011 wk2 (man I love it too)( i also had 4 other jeep and this one is the Bomb
 
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