My dealer says i need to scan the abs module??? and wants to charge me 500$ I tore the metal hose that runs to the caliber from the break line??? do i need to scan the module?? the break reservoir is dry except for the back part of it to the rear of my jeep.
I have no idea what they are talking about unless you ruined something from no fluid. Did you put a new brake line on? If so you may need to bleed the system...but they wouldnt charge you $500 for that. You may need a new module
holly crap, i thought this thread was about your stomach muscles bleeding!! was hoping to get some gory pics and all i got was a pic of some brake lines... :sleepy::sleepy::sleepy::sleepy:
Yeah, what you said doesnt actually mean anything. What I mean by that is, its like saying they need to repel the flux capacitor... your saying WHAAAa?? I know thats what I am saying reading your post, that said, if its exactly what they are telling you, tell them you want to talk to the tech and have him explain what needs to be done. Sometimes the service writers trying to explain things very foreign to them and they have to do it like they know what they are talking about or you dont buy it, so they throw a couple techy words in there not because they are the right ones but to sound s-m-r-t.
500 seems kinda low for the module especially considering there would be labor to install and base-abs-base bleed the system. I believe on the grand the abs module must be replaced as a hydraulic control unit/pump assembly.
Get the actual low down, figure out exactly what they are doing and we can go from there.... it does sound too expensive.
When you change the brake line, there is usually no need to do anything but a normal brake bleed. The only time it is necessary to bleed the ABS module by hooking up to the scan tool is if the hydraulic portion is changed. I would suggest replacing the part, bleeding the system as you would normally until you get a good pedal, drive the vehicle in a safe location an push hard enough on the brake pedal to activate ABS a couple of times, bleed the system again. This assumes that there are no malfunction lights on after you complete the regular bleed.
What the dealer means is this: When air gets into the braking system at the master cylinder, you can't just bleed it like you would bleed your brakes at each caliper. This is a very common issue these days on modern vehicles with ABS. They need to hook up a scan tool that will pulsate the ABS module. Without doing that, it's basically impossible to get all of the air out of the ABS module. And that means your ABS might not function properly.
$500 does seem high for that service, unless they are also including repairs as well.
BTW, this is why it's so important to ensure that the master cylinder's fluid level doesn't drop too low during brake bleeding. The last thing you want is to get air into the system at the master cylinder and then have to pay the dealer to get the air out of the ABS module.
Air will not get into the ABS system even if all of the fluid drains from the brake system and the ABS valves are not opened. Once the parts of the ABS system that are blocked from the normal brake fluid path have fluid, the fluid will not drain out unless the valves are opened when the brake system empty.
If it's a replacement module, you're more than likey looking at $$$. A guy at work is having no end of hassle with the module on his Vauxhall Vectra. His bill is almost £1,500!!!
Here's a link to a great article that explains why/how a typical ABS module is bled. It also explains why you need a scan tool to do it properly on vehicles without bleeders on their ABS modules.
Keep in mind that this procedure isn't typically necessary unless you've replaced a component upstream of the ABS module (or if you've let air enter the system upstream of the master cylinder). So for example, if you're bleeding your brakes and you let the master cylinder run dry, air has entered the system and you will have to bleed the ABS module. Failure to do so can result in an inoperable ABS system.
X2 with everything msca said. Hopefully the dealer quoted you $500 for the whole repair job, and not just to bleed the system. Imeh's suggestion is good also, if you are doing the repair urself, bleed the system normally, see if you have a good pedal when done, then get abs to actuate by slamming brakes, if you still have a good pedal after that, ur done, if not, expect to pay about $100-150 to have the abs system bled via scan tool.
Msca-+rep to you, for taking the time to educate a member
dgora-
IMEH- we've had to bleed more than one abs system via scantool after opening the system on many occasions so i cant say i agree with your statements 100%
so i went and got the brake today and talked to a tech. he told me i shouldnt have a problem with the module, i went home and changed the line, bleed all 4 calibers, and every thing works great!! the abs is spot on, and the esp work like a charm. thaks for the help guys