Ya, torqued the caliper bolts to 125 and slide pins to 18.
I may bleed my brake lines this weekend. Sounds like fluid vapor (water) can build up in there and bleeding them should be done when replacing pads. Good article. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...edbrakes.shtml
I'll follow this recommendation instead of compressing the calipers since the pads have already been replaced.
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
2. If calipers are overhauled, open all caliper bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding.
3. Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert opposite end in glass container partially filled with brake fluid . Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid.
4. Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.
More fun! At least it looks doable without having to jack up the vehicle. Just need a good helper monkey.