Sooo, is there any other way to remove the caliper without compressing it with a C-clamp? My C-clamp isn't big enough This is already turning into a day long project.
EDIT - it's just above the little plastic piece that's inside the reservoir.
I think you should get a bigger C-Clamp. I don't know what you mean on way to remove the caliper without compressing it. To remove the caliper you just un-bolt it.
Now compress the Brake Pistons with the Brake Pad against it using the C-Clamp. And the the same with the other side.
I'm following this how-to (link) - he compressed the piston when removing the caliper from the rotor. I'll go see if I can remove it without compressing. I think my C-clamp will be big enough to compress the piston once I get it off of the rotor.
He meant by un-bolting the caliper first. Then you Compress the Pistons using the Brake Pads with the C-Clamp. Get what I mean? Seems a bit confusing...
Yeah, I got it, thanks Paul!! I fully understand it now after taking it apart. I got the old pads off, but I will absolutely need to compress the piston to get the new ones on and back onto the rotor. Off to Lowe's I go, LOL.
Last question for when I get back... what do I do with this little squeeze packet of lubricant? Service manual says to lubricate the two bolts... is that correct?
This may not be the right place to put this but I am going to do it anyway.
Most Jeeps on the road today use some form of the universal symbol standard for the various fluids. Once you learn to recognize them, you'll never need to ask "where is the filler cap" again. Also, while most of the filler caps can be located just about anywhere in any given Jeep, the brake fluid cap is pretty much going to always be in the same general area unless you are dealing with a right hand drive setup.
I was doing a little work on my WK just now and snapped a few pics of the various caps. They really aren't that hard to locate or identify.
And finally, regarding the need to remove the cap. It need only be done if someone added more brake fluid as the old pads wore down. The system is "closed" (well at least it should be) and won't lose fluid unless there is a leak. But as the pads wear and the pistons move further out of the caliper, the fluid level in the reservoir will go down to maintain hydraulic pressure. Now if you are the type of person who just can't stand to see the fluid down below the "max" line and top it off with more brake fluid, there can be problems when you push the piston back into the caliper to make room for the new pad. If you have done this, you not only may need to remove the cap but you might also need to remove a small amt to avoid having it spill over the top. Once you understand how the fluid level in the reservoir responds to brake wear, you can use it as a quick check on the wearing of pads. With a new set of pads all around, the fluid should sit at the max line. As time goes by and the pads wear, the level should gradually drop. When it approaches the min line, it would be a good idea to check/replace your pads.
Take a look at my WK's reservoir below. Looks as if I am about 1/3 to 1/2 way to needing new pads.