Originally Posted by justin-overland
I agree that it could fly apart. And by no means am i trying to perswade anyone to do what im doing. Im simply posting my findings. As far as the diff goes if it getts smoked the i will reduild it. Thats all real chaep parts. I would say that unless u do own or have accsess to a full blown shop then its proly not wise to try what i have.
Ive got another 100 miles on my second fix and so far its good. Hopefully it lasts longer than my first try.
Im reading up on this same issue cause i may be having this same problem soon with my mileage.
Have you trawled Pirate4x4 by any chance? i pulled this posts mid-thread which might be of interest.
"I never tacked a washer on (damn good idea) but I have tacked the caps to the actual shaft. Usually makes a d30 joint last about twice as long for me (every other run). However you do have to grind the welds to change the joint. I just carry two sets of spares and change the joints at home.
Some of my friends in the Carolinas live by this. They tack in their 60 caps.
"For those of you that kinda want a visual for this..take a heavy washer....big enough in diameter to cover your axle joint cap.
place it over the cap...so it is sitting centered on the yoke of the axle. tack weld on four sides...
what this does is basicly what the full circle lock rings does...it keeps the joint from popping out...even if your lock ring does pop off..it also allows the cap to move freely inside the yoke of the axle...because stock shafts will flex and break the welds if you tack the cap itself to the axle.
one thing to think about is...this is free...other than the cost of the washer.so....its not like you have much to lose by trying it."
for the Aluminium yokes, wouldnt an AL washer tacked with a TIG work just as well?
Replacement will still mean grinding out the welds, or go for a greaseable joint perhaps?
This is just a suggestion, i have no way of validating this info beyond what i read.