Jeep Garage  - Jeep Forum banner

Should I Replace the U-Joints?

I Found a Shop That Can Replace WK U-Joints…

68K views 124 replies 18 participants last post by  Gojeep 
#1 ·
Should I have this shop replace the U- Joints or should I replace the whole driveshaft?

I'm just curious as to will the work done hold up if I have them replaced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: spyder873
#6 ·
I'm driving to the shop now.
 
#3 ·
why would you replace the Driveshaft? Is the old one bad? did it snap ?

I would say just replace the U-joints . Use a good U-joint though . For that matter are they bad?
 
#5 ·
Because the the way the driveshaft was manufactured, the u-joint are "non-serviceable".
 
#4 ·
If they know what they are doing, I wouldn't hesitate to have them replace just the u-joints.

I've gone through two OEM drive shafts- one when they were still "cheap" ($400) that was then later replaced under warranty after they more than doubled in price. Both times the u-joints had failed...not sure if I just had bad luck or these aren't as robust as they probably should be!

I have heard of just replacing the u-joints with success. I would also consider asking them to use hardware with grease fittings, so you can keep it properly lubricated. Although I understand why they use sealed u-joints from the factory, it could be a way to ensure these ones will last you.
 
#8 ·
Ok , Now I see what you are talking about ... Thats a crappy design. whenever mine choose to go then I will consider getting a real driveshaft made with 1310 u joints you can replace . You may want to consider the same option
 
#9 · (Edited)
here is why they cant be replaced as easy

Just a thought ... If the tack welds were ground out and a new 1310 or 1330 ( not sure which) were installed , Could it be tack welded and repaired? Or possibly contact Tom Woods , englewood , or another driveshaft Mfg. and get one made.
 

Attachments

#24 ·
I understand you went to Tom Woods, but I still agree with your original thought. I see taking it out carefully, getting the right part, tigging it back, and balancing it. I've never heard of nearly anything that can't be fixed. Can't is a word that wasn't allowed in my house growing up. It's just my opinion, but I think everyone is toting the party line to make money. I've had a lot of experience in the past getting universals, and shafts right with various lifted vehicles. Who ever came up with is just as stupid as the person who left out a lower screen in the front.:thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
If you can buy a rebuilt driveshaft , Like you can from Crown or others then it can be changed
 
#12 ·
Ok so , I sent a email to Tom Woods of Tom Woods Custom Driveshafts and here is the response I received this morning


Tom Wood via comcast.net
11:49 AM (13 minutes ago)

to
Name removed :

While we can build replacement drive shafts for the WK, we do not have the ability to change the factory original, staked in, universal joints. It would be interesting to know who & how the company referenced on the string is accomplishing this.

If you have other questions, it may be best to call. Our Toll Free US # is 1-877-497-4238. Our worldwide telephone # is 1-801-737-0757. Hours of operation are 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM. Mountain Time Zone. (GMT - 7 hours) Monday through Friday.

Thank you,

Tom Wood
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts Inc.

Please include all original text in any reply.

Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist


I can tell you Tom Runs a class act ,If any of you dont know .He and his company make a Good bit of the driveshafts and sye kits for the offroad market . If anyone could do it ,His company would be able to

III2for3III I stand corrected.
 
#15 ·
The shop I went to was too busy to take a look at my issue.
 
#18 ·
How much?
 
#21 ·
I have seen the aluminium yokes get machined to except the inner C clips both in the US and here in Oz. The one I do have feed back on was not happy with it as weakened it to a point if had to be replaced not long after the change was done. He is running a custom steel driveshaft now.
 
#26 ·
I'm in the same way of thinking I don't need it as of now, but come spring time I'm gonna see what all the hoopla is about. It took me a while to find a shaft that would live in my goat, and I just can't see spending that kind of money. Yep the die grinder, and press will surely come into play.
 
#27 ·
Keep me updated in this spring…
 
#29 ·
If you press the the ujoints out you WILL break the driveshaft.

It has already been done by another member, I dont remember who or exactly when I just remember the pichers.

The aluminum will not flex it will just break, not to mention the carnage that would be caused if the joint failed, the 500 dollars you saved would more than double triple and possibly even quadruple the money saved to repair all the damage from a flailing driveshaft.

There is SO much more than just replacing a u-joint, centering the ujoint so the driveshaft is straight when there is no way to actually identify exact center because it wasnt made to adjust.

This is NOT an easy operation or no one would buy the OE driveshaft, I just think that all of you thinking it may be able to happen are underestimating what it takes to assemble and balance a driveshaft that was never made to be dissassembled. even if you got the ujoint replaced, I can almost guarantee that you would never get more than 6 months out of each ujoint and you would be fighting vibrations that will wipe out pinion bearings. This is not something to chince, if reputable driveshaft shops say no go, considering they are IN BUISNESS to do this stuff, I would tend to listen to them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lll2for3lll
#31 ·
My shop I went to were able to put new u-joints in my front drivehaft and it works perfectly. They were able to get the joins to problem. For my back I replaced with a junkyard one with new joints. They did try to replace the back joints usin gthe same methods but the shaft got damaged in the provess.
 
#33 ·
This shop wanted the challenge. they never heard of a vehicle where you could not service the joint. From what they showed me that had to grind away just enough in order to get the pin out. Then they put in the new joints. They gave me back the rear drive shaft with the new joints in it. but the technician said while they were trying to replace it they damamged the shaft slightly and it did not turn as smooth as it should. Still very happy they were able to put new ones on the front no problem.
 
#34 ·
It's the law of supply vs demand if the suppliers stick to the price that's what we have to pay.That sounds like how I was going to attack this problem slow, and deliberately. Are you able to tell us what brand, and number u-joints they used. Are they clipped from the inside, or out. If you have any measurements, or dimensions they recorded. The shop name would also be good for the guys who aren't hands on.
I was wondering where you've been, and up you pop.
 
#35 ·
I am not sure about the part number but they are oem from jeep im pretty sure. I have a good friendship from an aamco in central jersey. The clips are on the inside you will have to grind the excess away. But if you guys want a junkyard drivshaft they are 250.
 
#36 ·
Thank you for this thread. I had my rear diff rebuilt late last year by a jeep specialist, and I complained about noise I was still hearing after the rebuild. I was told of the inserviceable driveshaft.

Until I replace the rear driveshaft, is there anything I can grease to reduce the noise between 45-65mph? Thank you.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top