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Old 01-10-2017, 07:02 PM
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SRT Headers/Exhaust swap questions.

I have a 2005 5.7. I got my hands on a pair of SRT "headers" and I plan to do the swap soon. The questions I have are

1. What exhaust bolts do I use or do I get a stud kit ?

2. Do I use the SRT exhaust gaskets or the 5.7 ?

3. I know the 5.7 mid pipes wont work so I plan on getting a Magnaflow set made for the SRT but I have heard there is a fitment issue with the factory SRT midpipe on the 5.7.. think the Magnaflow will be the same?

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Old 01-10-2017, 09:50 PM
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Re: SRT Headers/Exhaust swap questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingeld View Post
I have a 2005 5.7. I got my hands on a pair of SRT "headers" and I plan to do the swap soon. The questions I have are

1. What exhaust bolts do I use or do I get a stud kit ?

2. Do I use the SRT exhaust gaskets or the 5.7 ?

3. I know the 5.7 mid pipes wont work so I plan on getting a Magnaflow set made for the SRT but I have heard there is a fitment issue with the factory SRT midpipe on the 5.7.. think the Magnaflow will be the same?
1: I'd imagine you would use the 5.7 bolts unless they are broken.

2: go with the srt exhaust gaskets. they will better match the srt manifolds better then the 5.7 ones.

3: yes the magnaflow would be the same issue, you will need to trim a slight amount off the transmission bell housing to clear the pipes.

hope this helps
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:00 PM
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Re: SRT Headers/Exhaust swap questions.

The bell housing is no problem but I read there is a issue with the transmission crossbeam. And the 5.7 bolts wont work... the flange of the SRT is only like 3/8 thick whereas the factory 5.7 log manifolds are like 2 inches
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:06 PM
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Re: SRT Headers/Exhaust swap questions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ingeld View Post
The bell housing is no problem but I read there is a issue with the transmission crossbeam. And the 5.7 bolts wont work... the flange of the SRT is only like 3/8 thick whereas the factory 5.7 log manifolds are like 2 inches
alright then use the srt bolts. the issue ias the bell housing tho, there is a small piece that needs to be trimmed off.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:52 AM
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You will also have to modify / notch for the EGR as they don't have them on the srt
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:19 PM
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Re: SRT Headers/Exhaust swap questions.

All is true above. Whichever gaskets you get (5.7 or 6.1), purchase Percy's Seal For Good dead soft aluminum flange gaskets. They're available at most speed shops, Summit, Jegs, Autozone (may have to order), etc. Get an aircraft quality (medium hard) collar type bolt (mine w/3/8 in. thick flanges) are just a tad under one inch long. Also, use Nord-Lock wedge washers. They're a little spendy, but worth their weight in gold, IMO. Here's an interesting little video on how they work:

Watch the new Junker test video here! - Nord-Lock

You'll also want to use lots of anti-seize on the bolts, as the Nord-Locks work better when it is used.

I say all this from experience.....changing flange gaskets, tightening loose flange bolts, etc. Believe me this a job you'll only want to do once...not 3 times over six years like I've had to do. Now I should never have to do it again, knock on wood.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:47 AM
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What is the bolt size, thread pitch, and length for the bolts that I need? Would stainless steel bolts be a good choice nobody around here has aircraft quality bolts
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Old 01-13-2017, 04:16 PM
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Re: SRT Headers/Exhaust swap questions.

What I was calling "collar" bolts are really called flange bolts. Flange bolts have a flange on the bottom of the head that distributes the load like a washer. With this type bolt, the Nord-Lock washers will make full contact on the bolt and the header flange.

Double check this, but I am pretty sure the ones I used, along with the Nord-Lock washers, were 8mm-1.25X25mm with a collar or flange on the bottom of the head. Your length MAY BE slightly different depending on the thickness of your header flanges. My flanges are 3/8 in. thick. You'll want about 1/2 inch of threads going into the heads. You should also use anti-seize compound on the bolts when using Nord-Lock washer....no anti-seize if you're using standard washers. If you use the Nord-Lock washers the bolts CANNOT be harder than the washer. That's why I used a midgrade aircraft quality bolt. Any good industrial hardware place should be able to tell you the hardness you'll need. DO NOT use stainless steel bolts if you use the same type Nord-Lock washers I used……see info. below.

Here's a paragraph on bolt hardness vs. Nord-Lock washer hardness:

"In order to assure the unique wedge locking function of the NORD-LOCK washers, the hardness of the mating surfaces should not exceed the hardness of the NORD-LOCK washers.

The unique wedge-locking action of the NORD-LOCK washers can easily be verified. Tighten the bolted joint with NORD-LOCK washers, then untighten. During untightening, sliding must always occur between the pair of NORD-LOCK washers. Upon overriding of the cam faces a "click effect" should be felt when the nut/bolt comes loose. Ocular inspection of the mating surfaces should show clear impression marks made by the NORD-LOCK washers. When all these criteria are fulfilled, NORD-LOCK washers will always safely lock bolted joints exposed to severe vibration or dynamic loads."

The Nord-Locks that I used were 5/16 in. (8.7mm ID), 20 pairs (glued)….the washers are used in pairs. You'll only need 17 bolts and 17 pairs of Nord-Lock washers. On my Nord-Lock washer package it said:

NL8sp (5/16") ID 8.7 mm
Art. No. 1524
Delta Protekt KL 100+VH302GZ
Washer hardness>465 HV1. mating surface
EN 1.7182 or equivalent


Just find a high quality flange bolt that is not quite as hard as the washer hardness shown above on my packaging. Any knowledgeable industrial hardware (or maybe even places like Lowes) should be able to find you the correct bolt. Keep me posted if you need anything else.

Here's an ebay.com place to get the washers:

Nord-Lock 1524 | eBay

EDIT: Also, if it will help, the flange bolts I used were threaded the full length and had the following markings on the head:

W.T
10.9

I don't know what the W.T means, but the 10.9 is a Class 10.9 Alloy steel, quenched and tempered bolt.
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05 LX/RT & 06 WK/GCO, modded similarly, MDS "ON" Light, Vortex Gens, Debadged, DashHawk, BT Catch Can, SRT CAI W/Add Air Inlet, K&N Filter, Sonnax Trans Press Booster, SC Tuner W/Adv Trans Tuning App, DS Tuner, Cust tube headers w/3 in. catback, Bilsteins, SRT frt/rear bumpers, Eibach SRT Lwr Sprgs & Sways, FRI Sidewinder Cam Adv 2*, 6.1 valvetrain, SLP 25% UD Pulley, BBK 90mm TB, SOS Coils/.060 plug gaps. 20 in. SRT Reps.
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