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XenonDepot Xtreme HID's

20K views 159 replies 18 participants last post by  TimmyB 
#1 ·
Well I got my HID's in the mail on Friday and now that I have some free time I'm going to look into installing my low and fog HID's. Now I want it to be a relatively simple install so I wont be pulling off the front bumper. But my question is does anyone have any idea on where they mounted their Ballasts and relays and all that fancy jazz that comes with the Xtreme kit from XenonDepot.

Pictures would be GREATLY appreciated. Also the positive and ground wires on the hardness, the connectors look very small, are they going to fit on the battery terminal??

Pictures for anything would be awesome. Thanks ya'll.
 
#127 ·
Ok so as i thought there is no issue with going back to the battery, it just isn;t needed.most people don't bother since A) on newer vehciles grounds are usually good all over th chassis and B) its one more wire to run.

Also with my experience on working with old cars notorious for electrical gremlins... i'm very familiar with grounding properly and its importance...
 
#128 ·
Correct, there isn't an issue with it, but to say it's the best place for a ground is not true (test any ground and as long as it reads below 1ohm, then it's suitable for pretty much any application). 95% of the time the chassis is more conveniently located than the negative battery terminal post, so most will not induce the extra work and run a ground all the way back to the battery.
 
#132 ·
I've said it for the last year that 95% of peoples problems with installing HID's is the grounds. Anytime anyone pm's me or asks me about HID problems I immediately ask about their ground.
 
#133 ·
I've said it for the last year that 95% of peoples problems with installing HID's is the grounds. Anytime anyone pm's me or asks me about HID problems I immediately ask about their ground.
...And they immediately tell you that their grounds are fine, right?
 
#136 ·
Are you using two separate relays for each low-beam ballast or a two-in-one relay?

For the drivers side ground you should be using the same ground as the battery (bolt on the fender wall).

If you are in fact using two separate relays then check the power wire (batt) on the driver side low-beam relay (assuming the ground is indeed good).

If you are using a two-in-one relay and the ground on the drivers side is indeed good, then I'd say it's a ballast or bulb issue. If it was a power wire issue, then both bulbs would have issues.

I'm guessing bulb or ballast. To run a test you can swap the driver-side ballast and bulb assembly with the passenger-side ballast and bulb assembly and see if the problem now occurs on the passenger-side.
 
#137 ·
Are you using two separate relays for each low-beam ballast or a two-in-one relay?

For the drivers side ground you should be using the same ground as the battery (bolt on the fender wall).

If you are in fact using two separate relays then check the power wire (batt) on the driver side low-beam relay (assuming the ground is indeed good).

If you are using a two-in-one relay and the ground on the drivers side is indeed good, then I'd say it's a ballast or bulb issue. If it was a power wire issue, then both bulbs would have issues.

I'm guessing bulb or ballast. To run a test you can swap the driver-side ballast and bulb assembly with the passenger-side ballast and bulb assembly and see if the problem now occurs on the passenger-side.
Thanks for replying. I have two seperate relays and ballasts, basically one system on EACH side. I have the Xtreme 6500 kit, 2 bulbs, 2 ballasts, and 2 relays, one for each side.

Now i will def check the power wire, get out my volt meter. But like I said it seems to only show a fault when im driving, but when its in the driveway I cant get it to shut off or flicker for the life of me, tugging on every single wire and hitting everything. So leads me to think its not a loose connection, but in fact a voltage issue.
 
#152 ·
he would be the first with a WK to have this problem......


its a ground bro and maybe the splicing you did. No idea why you spliced something thoiugh
 
#153 ·
he would be the first with a WK to have this problem......
He'd be the first with a computer problem? If that's what you meant then no, he would be at least the second, because I was the first then. I had this problem and it's actually why I completely rewired my HID's. I was looking for that electrical gremlin. Never found it. Put the cancellers on and viola! all better.
 
#155 ·
K Scott, not gonna argue. You are much more highly respected on this forum so I'll concede.
 
#156 ·
LOL....what about my comment says you are wrong and I am right? All i said was you are the only WK that needed these to my knowledge.
 
#157 ·
Haha, will you two stop bickering and put some pants on instead of skirts.... Lol, J/K. I will say it seems WK's are not all the same, just take my dual front blinker LED where I finally figured out I needed a 1.2ohm resistor where others got there's working with a 3ohm resistor. Def odd.

Scott, I spliced in another ground wire coming off the existing ground right after the harness( with the grounding wire, obviously). I did this because when I first installed them the drivers side light kept flickering and even shutting off, then come on when I turned the lights off and on. I played with it and played with it, removing it twice and reinstalling, but still got the same thing. I DID NOT swap out components with the working side though. When looking at the grounding ring itself to me it didnt appear crimped in that well like the other side is, so I tried splice tapping an additional ground wire with the existing ground and it worked perfectly all summer with zero issues.

Im telling you its crazy, had to work today so I didnt really have time to mess with the light, but in the morning on the way to work I noticed it flickered twice so I shut them off then on and it worked perfect the whole 30 min ride to work in the dark at 5am. Tell me that wouldnt drive you insane?? Lol.

What I notice the light does when its acting up is it will get dim, not shine on the road as far as the other side, then all of a sudden it will flash bright and be "normal", but then dim again. I do notice it happens more when im going over bumps, but its not only limited to going over bumps. Id work on it now but have plans to go out. Oh well.
 
#158 ·
Haha, will you two stop bickering and put some pants on instead of skirts.... Lol, J/K. I will say it seems WK's are not all the same, just take my dual front blinker LED where I finally figured out I needed a 1.2ohm resistor where others got there's working with a 3ohm resistor. Def odd.

Scott, I spliced in another ground wire coming off the existing ground right after the harness( with the grounding wire, obviously). I did this because when I first installed them the drivers side light kept flickering and even shutting off, then come on when I turned the lights off and on. I played with it and played with it, removing it twice and reinstalling, but still got the same thing. I DID NOT swap out components with the working side though. When looking at the grounding ring itself to me it didnt appear crimped in that well like the other side is, so I tried splice tapping an additional ground wire with the existing ground and it worked perfectly all summer with zero issues.

Im telling you its crazy, had to work today so I didnt really have time to mess with the light, but in the morning on the way to work I noticed it flickered twice so I shut them off then on and it worked perfect the whole 30 min ride to work in the dark at 5am. Tell me that wouldnt drive you insane?? Lol.

What I notice the light does when its acting up is it will get dim, not shine on the road as far as the other side, then all of a sudden it will flash bright and be "normal", but then dim again. I do notice it happens more when im going over bumps, but its not only limited to going over bumps. Id work on it now but have plans to go out. Oh well.
If light output is dimming, then it is definitely not a grounding issue. They either work or they don't if the problem is the wiring.

Based upon your latest post, now my opinion is that your ballast is bad. Try the component swapping and get back to us with the results.
 
#160 ·
I would definitely suggest swapping components left to right as well.

Steve

I know, and wish it was that easy to just swap things around. Im not lazy, just have alot of other things to do and I can live with a flashing light. It seems to act up at all different times, like this morning it only flashed once then was perfect the rest of the drive in. Odd.

And im sure its not the kit itself, but probably a loose connection I have yet to discover. And nothing is blown because the light does come on full power, im just noting things for my warranty factor with you guys. Lol. I def recommend and would only buy HID's again from xenondepot cuz I think they are very good products and service/help is great. :thumbsup:
 
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