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Old 06-19-2009, 11:10 PM
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Audio help

I need help from all you audio buffs out there. I have two issues with my boston acoustics system. I can't turn it up as loud as I would like sometimes because the bass starts sounding terrible and it seems to be getting worse. I'm thinking that I need a sub, but I don't want anything major, something that doesn't take up any space would be great. I've seen the trunk boxes you guys have built. They are nice, but I would like to keep all my trunk space. Is there an under-the-seat or in door sub option that works well?

And the second thing is my door panels raddle even when there is no music on. Has anyone else had this problem? I think its from pumping loud music over a period of time. Is there an easy fix for this?
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:11 PM
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Re: Audio help



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Old 06-19-2009, 11:34 PM
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Re: Audio help

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Originally Posted by Splathers View Post
I need help from all you audio buffs out there. I have two issues with my boston acoustics system. I can't turn it up as loud as I would like sometimes because the bass starts sounding terrible and it seems to be getting worse. I'm thinking that I need a sub, but I don't want anything major, something that doesn't take up any space would be great. I've seen the trunk boxes you guys have built. They are nice, but I would like to keep all my trunk space. Is there an under-the-seat or in door sub option that works well?

And the second thing is my door panels raddle even when there is no music on. Has anyone else had this problem? I think its from pumping loud music over a period of time. Is there an easy fix for this?
Alright, when you turn the stereo up do you hear distortion (crackling, obvious out of place sound)? Like, are any speakers blown?

I think a small sub/amp combo is a perfect compliment to the factory Boston system. Unfortunately the most cost-effective method is to do a cargo area enclosure. I researched passenger side foot well subs (ours are a bit too shallow - seems 2-door sports cars have us beat there i.e. 911, S2000) and in-door subs. Our factory 6x9's are crossed to play ~ 30-500hz. A true sub woofer in a car stereo usually plays no higher than 100hz and generally in the 60-80hz and below area. I wouldn't recommend pursuing the in-door sub woofer. It's somewhat complicated and the results will not be worth resource allocation.

So this leaves you basically with the decision to sacrifice cargo space for more bass. You can find subs that will work well in a 1 cube ~ 12x12x12 enclosure. That doesn't take up too much space; especially if you can get an enclosure with a slanted back face (see BlackPeppers thread).

The only fix for the rattling is to deaden the doors (if that's where the issue lies). Our doors are tin cans so they are certainly susceptible to rattling. Unfortunately, sound deadner is not cheap. If you can find the source of the problem specifically, you can pick up some gutter liner (butyl roofing) at the local hardware store and patch a target area. I wouldn't recommend this as a primary deadner. The Florida heat can melt this stuff and you don't want a nice gooey mess.
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Old 06-19-2009, 11:35 PM
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Re: Audio help

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^That's Matt's (and also my ) Bat signal!


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That's the only reason I entered this thread, hahahahaha! Gets me everytime, lol.
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:28 AM
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Re: Audio help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt View Post
Alright, when you turn the stereo up do you hear distortion (crackling, obvious out of place sound)? Like, are any speakers blown?

I think a small sub/amp combo is a perfect compliment to the factory Boston system. Unfortunately the most cost-effective method is to do a cargo area enclosure. I researched passenger side foot well subs (ours are a bit too shallow - seems 2-door sports cars have us beat there i.e. 911, S2000) and in-door subs. Our factory 6x9's are crossed to play ~ 30-500hz. A true sub woofer in a car stereo usually plays no higher than 100hz and generally in the 60-80hz and below area. I wouldn't recommend pursuing the in-door sub woofer. It's somewhat complicated and the results will not be worth resource allocation.

So this leaves you basically with the decision to sacrifice cargo space for more bass. You can find subs that will work well in a 1 cube ~ 12x12x12 enclosure. That doesn't take up too much space; especially if you can get an enclosure with a slanted back face (see BlackPeppers thread).

The only fix for the rattling is to deaden the doors (if that's where the issue lies). Our doors are tin cans so they are certainly susceptible to rattling. Unfortunately, sound deadner is not cheap. If you can find the source of the problem specifically, you can pick up some gutter liner (butyl roofing) at the local hardware store and patch a target area. I wouldn't recommend this as a primary deadner. The Florida heat can melt this stuff and you don't want a nice gooey mess.
Ok, I'll probably pursue a cargo sub, I like yours and BlackPeppers. As for the rattling goes, I can make it stop by putting my hand on the door panels near the speakers. I think some of the panels have become loose over time. What else can I use besides that gutter liner?
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2009, 10:38 AM
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Re: Audio help

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Originally Posted by Splathers View Post
Ok, I'll probably pursue a cargo sub, I like yours and BlackPeppers. As for the rattling goes, I can make it stop by putting my hand on the door panels near the speakers. I think some of the panels have become loose over time. What else can I use besides that gutter liner?
Your only option is sound deadner; whether it be liquid or mat. I've only used mat, so I can't comment on liquid, but I'm sure it would form better to a door card.
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:03 AM
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Re: Audio help

Butyl does not melt with the heat. It is the asphalt based membranes that will tend to run in high temps, like the Grace Ice and Water Shield they have at Homedepot. Here's some info on a good product to use, if you can get a contractor supply store to sell you a roll which im sure they will. They sell so much of this stuff it is much cheaper per linear foot than Dynamat.Grace Vycor® Butyl Self-Adhered FlashingGrace Vycor® Butyl Self-Adhered Flashing helps protect windows, doors and other non-roof detail areas from the negative effects of water and moisture. It is appropriate for use in high-temperature areas (such as desert southwest areas of the U.S.), although it provides excellent protection and can be installed in all areas of the U.S. and Canada. Grace Vycor Butyl can be applied at temperatures as low as 40°F and it's in-place temperature performance has been tested to 240°F. Available in 75ft rolls in three widths of 4", 6", and 9".
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Old 06-20-2009, 11:32 AM
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Re: Audio help

^^ what he said
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:04 PM
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Re: Audio help

I work for a consulting firm dealing with new construction and weather proofing. I was compairing the make up of Dynamat one day to the various types of water proofing and air and vapor barrier membranes and found they are similar. They only thing is with Dynamat is they dont sell alot of it compaired to construction membranes so the prices are alot cheaper. For the price to do one door with Dynamat you can do your whole car with a Grace, Henry, or Tremco product. Just make sure to get a Butyl or rubber based membrane if you do, not asphalt based. I was lucky enough to get 4 rolls of self adhered EPDM membrane off a site one day. Lol.

If your getting rattles I would take the door panel off and try to locate the exact spot. It could be a wire rattleing, or maybe a weld came loose, or even the door panel itself from a broken clip. who knows.
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:30 PM
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Re: Audio help

Timmy, check out this site (products)

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/
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Old 06-20-2009, 12:57 PM
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Re: Audio help

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Timmy, check out this site (products)

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

Awesome products they carry. They def sell alot of products, but if you buy all the stuff they recommend your in over a grand just for sound deadener. But if you can get access to a construction supply wearhouse you can get 75 sq ft of 60 mil self adhered EPDM membrane for the same price they sell 13 sq ft of the 80 mil Damplifier door pack for. Im just trying to save money and help people save sum cash too. Look in the phone book and walk in there with cash, they will sell you anything.
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Old 06-20-2009, 02:27 PM
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Re: Audio help

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Originally Posted by TimmyB View Post
Awesome products they carry. They def sell alot of products, but if you buy all the stuff they recommend your in over a grand just for sound deadener. But if you can get access to a construction supply wearhouse you can get 75 sq ft of 60 mil self adhered EPDM membrane for the same price they sell 13 sq ft of the 80 mil Damplifier door pack for. Im just trying to save money and help people save sum cash too. Look in the phone book and walk in there with cash, they will sell you anything.
Oh for sure man. Markup is a bitch!
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