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fiberglass enclosure

6K views 26 replies 5 participants last post by  Basslicks 
#1 ·
I think I am going to try to build a fiberglass enclosure. All of the hardware stores around me only sell fiberglass cloth. I see most of you guys have used fiberglass mat. What do you guys suggest I use?
 
#3 ·
ok thanks alot matt, that really helps. A few questions though, So you used the Knytex 1708 biaxial cloth (hybrid mat/cloth) just for the bottom layer and it only took one layer and the chopped matt for the sides and top, around 4 layers? and why 10 graduated cylinders? thanks again
 
#5 ·
The 3/4oz chopped mat is needed for the vertical build-up. I found it best to get an entire initial layer or two of 3/4oz mat - it's really thin. After that, begin using the 1708.

You'll have to pre-cut the 1708 to fit the specific area you want to lay. The mat you will rip, by hand, into palm size pieces.

The 1708 is a 17oz hybrid glass - it's a mat on one side, woven into a cloth on the other side. It's great for a fast build up and is extremely strong.

If there aren't any large flat areas, a few layers of chopped mat and a few (2-3) layers of 1708 will be plenty.

You'll need the large amount of graduated cylinders because after 1-3 batches of resin + MEKP the mixing cylinder is no longer usable. I mixed 4oz of resin at a time. Remember, once the MEKP is added, you'll have about 10 minutes to lay the glass (before it hardens). The cheaper resins is a lot less than that.

Lots of brushes as well. They don't last too long (1-2 batches). The brushes and cylinders are like $.60 each (or less) from US Composites, so better get more than enough, than not enough.
 
#7 ·
ok sounds good. I am going to be using the one 12" jl audio w3v3 sub I have. It has this for specs

<top-mount depth: 6-5/8"
sealed box volume: 1.25 cubic feet

I know this is a tricky question but, how far out should I put the ring, or depth I should say with that design since the wheel hub is not flat so that im at 1.25 cubit feet.
 
#8 · (Edited)
It's just a guessing game. I build up a mock enclosure using cardboard - and then filled it with packing peanuts to gauge how much space I was working with. Remember, you have to account for the displacement of the woofer magnet/frame. You should familiarize yourself with how much space 1.25 cubic feet is (looks like), and go from there.

If you need 1.25 ft^3, you are probably not going to get a nice, sleek looking shape. If you check out the enclosure I made (build log II), you can see how big that enclosure is, and it's not 1.25... maybe a cube.
 
#10 · (Edited)
well im going to remove the factory cd changer thats in there, my alpine head unit cant use it anyway. It opens up alot more space for a enclosure and provides more mounting screws.



what is use to look like with cd changer there (on right) and I think he has a capacitor there too. Think Il have enough room now Matt, to come close to 1.25 with cd changer removed?


 
#27 ·
well im going to remove the factory cd changer thats in there, my alpine head unit cant use it anyway. It opens up alot more space for a enclosure and provides more mounting screws.
Did the OP wind up going any further using the panel for the CD changer? I'm pretty sure this is where I'm going to build mine, I just wanted to try to find a few ideas before I just hit the ground running.
 
#11 ·
Look's really good man!
 
#13 ·
Oh, if you go into that area over there (similar to what I did) you should be able to get close, if not more. I thought you were going to mimic what Will did - there's no way he's got 1.25 in those enclosures.

So yeah, you should be fine if you get into the rest of the quarter panel area.
 
#14 ·
yea i was going to mimic Will but its too small, so i was looking on how to make it bigger and remembered i can remove the cd changer. im going to have to make the enclosure over my cargo area floor matt though.

Oh, if you go into that area over there (similar to what I did) you should be able to get close, if not more. I thought you were going to mimic what Will did - there's no way he's got 1.25 in those enclosures.

So yeah, you should be fine if you get into the rest of the quarter panel area.
 
#15 ·
Hey Matt, what amplifier do you suggest for my one sub. I need in between 250-500 rms at 4ohm. I had used a alpine mrp-500 before and was pleased with it but do you know any better ones. btw with these subs you hear no difference in sound from saying giving them 300 rms compared to 500 rms. Ive tried both and jl audio told me the same about them.
 
#17 · (Edited)
well I dont want to spend more than this one.

http://onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19251_Alpine_MRP-M500.aspx

ive had this one before but sold it on ebay awhile back because I wanted to get a more powerful one. The more powerful one sounded the same as the alpine so it was kind of a waste of time and money, like you said it only increases 3db. That alpine one is pretty small too.

btw, if you make it wider than farther out, its still increases the space to make it sound right,,,, right?
 
#18 ·
well I dont want to spend more than this one.

http://onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_19251_Alpine_MRP-M500.aspx

ive had this one before but sold it on ebay awhile back because I wanted to get a more powerful one. The more powerful one sounded the same as the alpine so it was kind of a waste of time and money, like you said it only increases 3db. That alpine one is pretty small too.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17801_Eclipse+XA1200.html

Save 40 bucks with this one - but this and the Alpine is about the best you're going to do <$200... unless you purchase used.

btw, if you make it wider than farther out, its still increases the space to make it sound right,,,, right?
Correct; Space is space in this case.
 
#19 ·
i think i might just build a box out of some wood I have left over from a box I built previously. Something like this that fits exactly against the back seat in the cargo area. I mean it will probably be better than fiberglass because it will take up the same amount of space since I will make it flush to the back seat and will be alot easier to build. What do you think matt? It will be like this except just one sub.
 
#22 ·
I'm torn between a few different ideas.

1) Remove the floor and rebuild it (flat! - I hate how it ramps up!). Build a new enclosure (from wood) - similar to the 10" enclosure I made, but instead of all the way across, it'd only be about 1/3 across, come out a little further, and go up a little higher (to fit a 12" woofer). Make a vented false floor cubby for the amplifier, and then make a few move removed top slots for tire iron, jack, straps, jump cables, other random crap. I'd also build the enclosure down into the floor (to get airspace, and then have a cover for that area, so if I wanted to remove the enclosure, I could cover that part of the floor and make it flat.

2) Leave the floor as is. Cut the fiberglass enclosure in half (so I keep the mold) and make it much skinnier (using a thin woofer - Dayton Audio just released a line of thin woofers, I'd use the 12" version ($150).

3) Something else, LOL :p

It'll be a good spring project for me.
 
#23 ·
ah i c, I ended up cutting a box in half that I had (logic box). It originally held two 12" inch subs. I cut it in half to just use one sub because the angle of the back of the box is exactly the angle of my back seats. So its flush with it. Like what you said it only takes up 1/3rd of the space and doesnt go all the way across.

One question though, I am going to put the amp of the side of the enclosure. I see alot of people do this and most installers do this as well. I am wondering how should I secure the amp to the enclosure, does it matter that the screws go threw the box and into the inside of the actual enclosure?
 
#25 ·
One question though, I am going to put the amp of the side of the enclosure. I see alot of people do this and most installers do this as well. I am wondering how should I secure the amp to the enclosure, does it matter that the screws go threw the box and into the inside of the actual enclosure?
Plain old screws will be fine. If you're anal like me, you'll use little rubber gaskets/bushings between the box and amp feet, amp feet and screw.

also do you have any tips for screwing the actual sub into the box. Ive noticed that when I screw it in, its not as secure as I would like. How do you usually put the sub into the box?
Nope, just pre-drill and screw it in. Some people like to use t-nuts and bolts (I have in the past), but they nuts don't stay into MDF very well, so you'd have to either back the MDF with plywood or use fiberglass resin (just more work for no gain). You could also use threaded inserts and bolts, but you have to be ABSOLUTELY DEAD ON with your inserts, or else you are fawked, lol. Just stick with screws, that's what I do after having done both in the past.
 
#26 ·
Seeing as how this post seems to have the most experienced fiberglass DIYselfers, iv got some questions.

1. Have you ever used real carbon fiber?
2. If so, ive heard its extremely tricky to get it to keep the resin from pooling depending on the conditions, any suggestions?
3. I wanted to try and make the box as light and strong as possible, maybe a combination of Kytex and CF. Other than looking really cool and being a pain in the ass, will the carbon fiber have any noticeable advantages?

I just want to have a really strong sealed enclosure that will never crack or flex. I will be running 1 or maybe two 12" Alpine type-r's, 500rms each. Which brings me to my next question. I currently have a single, extremely large ported box for one Type-R and i really dont like the sound i get with it anymore. It was cool at first because it was unbelievably loud for only running 120rms (Im getting a bigger amp for the sealed box). Now i want something with crisp, hard hitting definition. My plan was to build a single twelve enclosure and see how it sounds and then after that, deciding if i would build another.

1. Which would sound better, a single sealed 12" 500rms sub running 500rms, or 2 single sealed on less wattage per sub, or a double sealed box?


And last thing i would like to know since im going through the trouble to do this.

What material would be best to use to make a mold of the shape of the trunk of the WJ?
I wanted to make a mold of the the whole of both sides so i could maybe mass produce these and still be able to make them different shapes or positioning and such.
 
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