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Old 06-30-2011, 02:29 PM
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JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

I've been meaning to put this up for a while, then after trying a few times, I realized I stop taking pictures 2/3 of the way into the install. *sigh* I will eventually take them and post, but for now we'll call this "The beginning".


JL Audio C2's all around with adapters. *Note, the front dash speakers do not use the same adapter (found out too late, made do..) Apparently they use a Mazda adapter.


The rear JL's are actually 6-3/4" speakers, so this nice 6-1/2" adapter I bought needed to be opened up a bit. Trimmed it out with a Dremel and moved on.



Rear speaker comparison JL Audio C2 vs factory Boston Acoustic


Mounted and rotated to look pretty
I just reused the factory rain guards in the rear doors as the adapter worked as a spacer and kept the magnet well covered.



Dash speaker comparison


Here's where an adapter would have made this much easier. Then again, either way I needed to cram the bass blocker in there, so this totally works fine. *note 2.8kHz high pass filter will SAVE your tweeters!


Mounted. Nice.
The dash speakers are still running off of the BA amp. I didn't want to lose NAV or Bluetooth. The rest of the speakers still cut off when necessary, but it does not seem to be a dramatic as original.



Front door speaker comparison. This is where it gets tricky...
Obviously the new 6x9" JL's are bigger, deeper, & even protrude farther. So some work had to be done.


The JL's come with a spacer ring meant to mounting from the underside of rear dashes. These have little feet on them to separate the speaker from the mount. I trimmed them down flat and VOILA! backside spacer! Now these giant speakers can fit without the window destroying them....almost.


You see, now that they stick out so far, they hit on the door speaker ring. Not good. I trimmed it down as much as I could. I promise I cleaned it up better before final install.


Almost done! Except...
This was the last picture before I managed to take. With the grill cover on, the door panel just couldn't get back on tight. After a lot of cussing and frustration, I simply removed it. Everything fit nicely and went back together smoothly.
I could not use the factory rain guards still in the front due to the giant magnets. So I cut it out (keeping the screw holes in case it needs to go back in) then I got some XTC foam speaker baffles and cut out most of the bottom, then stuffed the top half with poly-fill. Sounds just fine, no ill effects!

Also in the front, here's what happened. The front right speaker kept coming unhooked. The culprit? the window! duh. So after I got this lovely pic, I had to flip the speaker so that the speaker terminals were on the left side, not sticking out where the window goes. Problem solved, plus it makes both the fronts have the same tweeter locations instead of being reversed.

What I didn't get pictures of (and probably won't) is that on each of the 4 doors, I sprayed them with rubberized undercoating directly behind the speakers. Why not Dynamat? b/c it's unnecessary in this case.

I'm reserving the next few spots for continuation. The system is done, just no photos...yet
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System - REC w/ PAC C2A-CHY, JL Audio C2 coaxials (3-1/2", 6x9", & 6-3/4"), JL Audio 1000/1 & 300/4, 2 JL Audio 10w6v2's in slot ported boxes, JL Audio 2 & 4 channel RCA cables, 1/0 gauge, & Optima Redtop
K&N drop-in + Airaid M.I.T., Jet 180 thermostat, Raybestos R-300 rotors (F&R) + Wagner Thermoquiets, MDS light, DSP *modified* 93oct tune
Future - 6.1 exhaust manifold + mids + catback, catch can, ported tb
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:37 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

Wiring up the PAC C2A-CHY makes quite a mess and is somewhat difficult to tuck away neatly.



Initially I tried keeping the small plastic tubes on the RCA's to try to reduce any chance of ground noise. Sadly it did not work, it helped a little to ground the C2A-CHY, but did not remedy the whistle it picked up. So I went bigger...


1/2" shrink tubing did the trick! I had to tuck all the RCA's in the metal braces behind the glove box to mount the C2A-CHY in a nice little spot on the right side of the stereo opening. It's a real tight fit and the cables get hung up easily. The shrink tubing makes a nice, tight connection that shouldn't separate. There are 8 total connections b/c I split the rear to give me a sub output, so 4 from the adapter plus 4 more rear.

While I was in there, I found the perfect spot for the sub amp knob. It took some grinding, but it fit perfectly!

Pardon the blurry pic, you can almost make out what's going on. I took the back off the EVIC button panel and took out the empty info center block. Then I ground it out to get the knob to fit. I also had to trim out a little chunk for the wire to come out and the panel could snap back clean.


Possibly the best possible result... It looks like it was meant to be & does not interfere with anything in the dash.

more to come on the amp and subs

Update (finally): I've parted with my amps and one of my 10w6v2 subs. While taking it out, I managed to remember to snap some picks of it. After over a year of of being in there, the wiring was not THAT bad!



The amps mounted on the back of the seats, allowing either one to fold down independently.


Both sub boxes in. They were a tight fit facing up, but would not rear-fire due to the binding post connection. They did not move around, which was really great.


Binding posts with Monster Cable banana clips on 10awg speaker wire. They disconnected easy and cleared the small side panel.


And finally the 300/4 all wired up with some 9band installer wire and JL Audio RCAs.
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System - REC w/ PAC C2A-CHY, JL Audio C2 coaxials (3-1/2", 6x9", & 6-3/4"), JL Audio 1000/1 & 300/4, 2 JL Audio 10w6v2's in slot ported boxes, JL Audio 2 & 4 channel RCA cables, 1/0 gauge, & Optima Redtop
K&N drop-in + Airaid M.I.T., Jet 180 thermostat, Raybestos R-300 rotors (F&R) + Wagner Thermoquiets, MDS light, DSP *modified* 93oct tune
Future - 6.1 exhaust manifold + mids + catback, catch can, ported tb
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:37 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

I want to share what I can remember from the install. Basically info on the factory BA system.
1st off, the BA speakers are all 2ohm. So by replacing them with 4ohm speakers (which almost all aftermarket speakers are) you will lose roughly 1/2 the power the "276w" BA amp puts out. The factory amp should be 46wx6@2ohms. After listening to it, it would seem more along the lines 50wx4 for the doors & 38wx2 for the dash speakers. I never actually calculated, but probably should have.
Now, my dash speakers are still running on the BA amp, they are rated at 25w RMS, so even by the 2nd number, they should still get around 19w (23w by the 1st). This is acceptable.

The system is a can-bus config, so there is no usable signal before the BA amp (without adapter). It is a single signal that holds all the info the amp needs. LUCKILY, it's set up to separate the dash from the doors! So you can simply unplug the doors output plug (14-pin closest to the d-pillar) from the amp without hurting power, bus, or dash speaker output. Which is exactly what I did. I ran an installer style 9band wire from the output of the JL amp to the output of the BA amp and just tapped it into the correct wires (THANKS wkjeeps.com!!) This is something I wish I got a pic of, mainly b/c I don't want to pop that panel off just to take a pic.

Since it is a can-bus setup, the REC radio basically does nothing, the amp does all the sound processing. So even when using the PAC adapter like I did, you cannot adjust bass, mid, or treble on the door speakers. It does work for the dash still.
The JL speakers sounded fine powered by the BA amp, but not like they do with the JL amp pushing them with 75w a piece. Plus I can control the sound better now.

Another thing people have mentioned before, but is vital, is that while you have the rear panel off to get the the BA amp, use the factory ground lug right behind the seat. It's perfect and I even grounded my 1/0awg wire and it didn't interfere with anything, not even the panel fit with it hanging out the bottom.

I'm sure there's more I've already forgot, but this I'll be back to update soon.
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System - REC w/ PAC C2A-CHY, JL Audio C2 coaxials (3-1/2", 6x9", & 6-3/4"), JL Audio 1000/1 & 300/4, 2 JL Audio 10w6v2's in slot ported boxes, JL Audio 2 & 4 channel RCA cables, 1/0 gauge, & Optima Redtop
K&N drop-in + Airaid M.I.T., Jet 180 thermostat, Raybestos R-300 rotors (F&R) + Wagner Thermoquiets, MDS light, DSP *modified* 93oct tune
Future - 6.1 exhaust manifold + mids + catback, catch can, ported tb
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:30 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

Thanks for the pictures! We are going to install these into my friends WJ!
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:37 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

Yes. Yes. Love JL.
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Old 07-05-2011, 09:10 AM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

sweet write up. Im sure that system screams!

My Stealthbox and 250/1 are among my favorite additions to my Jeep. JL Audio has always been one of the best in the Car Audio industry. I remember buyin my first set of 12w6's back in '97 those were the days...
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Old 07-06-2011, 09:50 AM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

Thanks guys.
I've had nothing but JL since around '03. My ZJ had 3 15w6's and XR's all around (coaxials in the rear doors, components in the front). I competed a few times and touched 152db. Never won 1st, but did cause a few nose bleeds .

If I can ever get the rear cleaned out, I'll get some pics of the amps & subs. It's not the best work I've done, but it's functional and easy to remove if needed. I mounted the amps on the back of the seats and made a cover to protect them out of MDF in case I need to carry a lot of cargo.

I had planned on building another custom box, but the ones I already had fit perfectly across and wedge themselves in place. So right now, they are still black and the carpet is peeling around the edges from moving them around so much. Eventually I am going to re-carpet them with some matching slate grey I have waiting.
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System - REC w/ PAC C2A-CHY, JL Audio C2 coaxials (3-1/2", 6x9", & 6-3/4"), JL Audio 1000/1 & 300/4, 2 JL Audio 10w6v2's in slot ported boxes, JL Audio 2 & 4 channel RCA cables, 1/0 gauge, & Optima Redtop
K&N drop-in + Airaid M.I.T., Jet 180 thermostat, Raybestos R-300 rotors (F&R) + Wagner Thermoquiets, MDS light, DSP *modified* 93oct tune
Future - 6.1 exhaust manifold + mids + catback, catch can, ported tb
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:24 AM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

I like the placement of the bass control knob. Very clean! I have mine installed in the center console because I couldn't find a place in the center stack that I liked enough to mount it there. Very nice install! JL is definitely the way to go!
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:52 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

Came back to update, sadly I've sold all but one 10w6v2 now and managed to get pictures during the uninstall to show how it was.
Simply put, I've been hauling more than usual and got tired of pulling 50lb sub boxes out all the time and protecting very valuable amps from the likes of gravel and dirt.

Currently I've downsized to a single 10w6v2 and run it off an old Alpine 500w sub amp I had lying around and went back to the factory BA amp running all the door & dash speakers. It sure doesn't sound like it did, but it's still not too shabby. Is still plan on going to a JL Audio XD amp setup. I can easily fit them under the cargo tray in the rear. Just weighing my options on a single amp or multiple (XD700/5 vs XD600/1 + XD400/4). For me, bigger has always been better, so I'm trying to break the habit and decide that 300 watts for my sub is enough (even though it isn't!)
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System - REC w/ PAC C2A-CHY, JL Audio C2 coaxials (3-1/2", 6x9", & 6-3/4"), JL Audio 1000/1 & 300/4, 2 JL Audio 10w6v2's in slot ported boxes, JL Audio 2 & 4 channel RCA cables, 1/0 gauge, & Optima Redtop
K&N drop-in + Airaid M.I.T., Jet 180 thermostat, Raybestos R-300 rotors (F&R) + Wagner Thermoquiets, MDS light, DSP *modified* 93oct tune
Future - 6.1 exhaust manifold + mids + catback, catch can, ported tb
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:09 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

looks great man, may i suggest if you notice a lot of vibrations, you could always turn them towards the front, i know it may sound dumb, but it helps a lot, your seats take a lot of the vibration but leave a lot of the good stuff lol
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:31 PM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

Where do you live?...I am sure someone will want to steal all that.
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:52 AM
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Re: JL'd up WK. OH YEEEAAAAHH!

I never had any vibrations except for the rear wiper. I was pretty impressed by the factory sound deadening. Even the rear glass didn't make noise with how hard it shook.


I always worried about getting it stolen, but no one ever tried. I had 2 15w6's in high school that were stolen and I never got anything from insurance, so it always was on my mind. It's all been sold off now, so I hope no one breaks in for nothing!
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System - REC w/ PAC C2A-CHY, JL Audio C2 coaxials (3-1/2", 6x9", & 6-3/4"), JL Audio 1000/1 & 300/4, 2 JL Audio 10w6v2's in slot ported boxes, JL Audio 2 & 4 channel RCA cables, 1/0 gauge, & Optima Redtop
K&N drop-in + Airaid M.I.T., Jet 180 thermostat, Raybestos R-300 rotors (F&R) + Wagner Thermoquiets, MDS light, DSP *modified* 93oct tune
Future - 6.1 exhaust manifold + mids + catback, catch can, ported tb
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